Guerrilla growing (small, personal amounts of) cannabis in the great Aussie bush..

[pisspotnrock]

a friend of mine who doesnt have access to the internet at the moment has asked me to come on here to enquire about as few things he would like to know (plus it will be useful information for any growers out there wanting to learn more) regarding growing cannabis in rural bushland...

well the situation is, he has some knowledge and experience of growing cannabis outdoors but has never attempted a grow off his property, far away from any water source with a natural soil that is quite useless...

his aim is two plots, both consisting of 4 plants.. lucky for him, he will be givin rooted white widow cuttings in ~october right as the outdoor season commences but at the same time, raising his first question.. would transplanting these cuttings from indoors to outdoors in mid october he too early (once outdoors, he wants them to go straight into their vegetative state)? his plan is to grow his crop to its utmost full potential, resulting with 8 monsters yielding ~lb per plant, give or take, so the earlier, the better...

his second question reguards preparation of the sites.. he has found a spot for his two plots, but isnt 100% sure the minimal amount of room each plant will need to grow to their full potential.. what distance would one recommend spacing each plant apart, keeping in mind they will all be guaranteed females? (so no need for culling males) would 1 metre be enough/too much? with the fencing side of things, how high does the chicken wire have to be? kangaroo's are his main concern... will using star pickets as posts stand out too much? worth painting them the colour of the natural scenery for camouflage?

then there's the depth of the hole he will have to dig.. to my knowledge/experience, the tap root of the cannabis plant is very short but does spread out a fair distance to.. I was mabey thinking a bit over 2 foot would be a suitable depth with a diameter of roughly the same? would more room be needed to grow them to their full potential?

I've also been told (by a very experienced grower) and have mentioned to my mate that once the plot has been dug out, underlining it with a tarp will retaining a shitload of water thus dramatically cutting down the amount of water you need to give them... does anyone have experience in using this method? I would imagine poking several holes in the tarp would be a necessity because if the roots were drowning in water, root rot and fungal problems would more than likely happen...

thirdly, due to the poor state of the soil at the site, he will be buying potting mix and creating his own blend that will more than likely consist of 50% all purpose potting mix, 30% natural, onsite soil and 20% perlite with a layer of mulch to top it all off (water crystals will also be used to save water).. does this sound alright? his got all the right fertilizers covered (liquid) for both the vegetative + flower stage but everyone feel free to recommend what they've found works good

the finial question for the time being is regarding water.. he was planning of carrying out 4 (2 for each plot) 20 litre jerry cans to the sites.. how long would 10 litres last a single plant before more water will have to be gathered? and how often should they be watered?

thats about it for now reguarding my questions but I would love if every on here could shared their experiances, hint and tips on guerrilla growing in this great land of ours %)

PS. Always remember kids, loose lips sink ships

 

[losthippy]

WW is a stable and fairly forgiving strain so moving from indoors to out shouldn't be too difficult a transition provided plants and planter are well-prepared. Increasing photo-period combined with warming weather and the correct nutrient/pH load will almost certainly trigger revegation. As to 'monster yields', well let's just say a lot can happen in a season, especially where absentee growers are concerned.

1.5 metres trunk-to-trunk (staggered east-west) is ideal spacing.

Forget chicken wire if roos are your only big pest issue. Get hold of some #10 or #12 gauge fencing wire and run 2 (or 3) single strands around your plot using trees/stumps/rocks already there if at all possible. The lowest strand should be around mid-shin height, the next knee-height and the third (if you like) around mid-thigh. Pull each one up as tight as possible, then grab a rag soaked in matte black paint and take 2 (or 3) laps around your perimeter blacking each strand as you go. You'll be hard pressed to spot them at a distance. Roos move forward slowly with their heads down as they browse (often at night) and when they bump into the wire they tend to then move along it rather that try to climb through. That being said, they also don't like the smell of blood and bone, so source the cheapest bulk-buy to be had and spread it liberally around the perimeter whenever the plot is visited. Bit of piss doen't hurt, either.

Think nothing less than 20 litres of soil volume per plant. Cannabis has a moderately long taproot, especially outdoors when it has to fend for itself betwen visits for water. Laterals scavenge nutrients and help anchor the plant to the ground, the spread usually consistant with the plant's drip-line, so the more room for the roots to move the greater foliar mass and eventual plant structure.

Also, check for the presence of whiteants before starting to dig. If there are trees and/or woody plants nearby you can just about bet there will be whiteants in one form or another and they love cannabis. If plugs must be dug rather than growing in containers then the only thing I know of that deters whiteants (besides some fairly noxious insecticides) is sheep dags lining the holes and incorporated lightly throughout your soil mix. They don't seem to like the lanoline, but unless you can find a shearing shed to crawl around underneath I can't think of an alternative.

Have not tried the tarp idea to comment, but it honestly sounds like too much hard work. The grower might be better-off using a cheap kid's paddle-pool to grow in with poly overflows fitted a couple of inches up from the bottom on each side. Great method - another story.

Nutrients... just follow the basic idea that cannabis is a nutrient pig early-on so a well-balanced NPK mix higher in the N side is needed. From wood on to flowering the N ratio needs to dip and K needs to be raised. As mentioned in another strand Potato E is the duck's nuts applied via top-dressing or banded into your soil profile. It's fairly strong so don't overdose plants. Use a bit less than suggested on the bag and water it in well. Expect some initial leaf-yellowing and shedding as the plants adjusts to their new flower-friendly diet.

Can't really comment on watering regimen as this is dependent on too many factors I don't have info about re. temp., humidity, winds, light etc. The general rule outoors is to water deeply but less frequently. Lugging containers is a pain in the arse and a bit suss to be seen carrying around out in the sticks, so an idea might be to grab a wheely bin or a couple of 50+ litre rubbish bins for each plot and park them on-site over winter to catch the rain before the season starts. Of course, this depends on where the grow is happening, how much rainfall can be expected and how keen the grower is to avoid having to carry water in over summer. Best to get it done sooner rather than later.

It is a given that bought soil mixes are usually pretty gutless so additional, well-rotted organic matter should be included to hold water up and stop in running through. Mulch big-time, but not up to the base of the trunk, to avoid fungal issues. Use a soil wetting agent with the initial watering and be sparing with the water crystals. They tend to encourage root clustering if the soil is expected to dry out between drinks, so deeper in the plug than closer to the top is my tip.

Anyhow, that's my two bob's worth. Good luck.

 

[Busty St Clare]

I have no experience with pot, my advice is just coming as an avid gardener. I don't know about the tarp to capture water. I imagine the risk of a swampy puddle causing root rot would be high. You are better off using plenty of mulch like nature usually does. A bale of sugar cane mulch would be plenty but might give off a distinct smell that could attract animals. Also look at the lay of the land. If you plant on a slope obviously rainwater is going to run away. Better of digging a raised trench to slow run off around the plants or plant in a low lying flat area. I would also consider mixing some water crystal into the soil to help ensure water is trapped around the root system. If you are going to use a tarp for anything perhaps building a pond/dam nearby to capture rainwater that you could then transfer onto your plants.

A lot of factors will depend on the type of bush and your climate. Like poppy milk suggest lack of sun or too much direct sunlight is your enemy. Commercial crops I have seen usually have a large cleared opening that is then covered with shade cloth. This way you can control the amount of sun yourself. This is difficult to get right if you only plan on visiting once a week or so. Victoria during summer is hot, dry and harsh compared to lush subtropical regions so the amount of water is a guess. If it isn't raining then more is better as a stressed plant will not grow. Have a think about where the main growing centres exist in Australia. It isn't just because a lot of hippies live there, they have high rainfalls, good soils and lush natural bush surrounds.

Most bush settings in Australia have very poor soils. Some parts of Victoria for instance are extremely sandy. Look around your site. If the plants are sparse, small leaf, typical "native" appearance then you are wise to prepare the holes with plenty of compost, manure and trace elements. Not only will these ensure your plants are properly fertilised but will also stop your precious rain water from draining away.

Don'y ignore the threat from possums. These little fuckers will eat anything sweet (even the hottest of chillies) and a couple of lines of wire won't protect your buds. A tall fence of shade cloth would do the trick but is not exactly discrete if any one stumbles upon your plot.

 

[shoo-bop]

I'd agree with Busty about the possums being a major threat to small-scale bush gardening. A chicken-wire "cage" encompassing the whole plot (above and to the sides) might be another way to keep them out, but could limit the height to which any vegetables contained within would grow.

 

[losthippy]

Might be relevant, or not, but be aware that strange vehicles stick out like dog's balls in and heading into the bush. Worse if loaded up with gear consistent with a grow eg. Rolls of mesh, wire, water drums and no plausible reason for being there. Cockies, foresters and locals notice things out of place and will pay attention if you get spotted a second time.

 

[opi8]

^ This is a stupid question but cockies? Never heard that one before, what are they?

 

[losthippy]

Just a quick ps on protecting the plot... parrots, foxes, rabbits, phascogales, mice and all manner of insect will also suss out the strange-smelling weird green exotics to munch on them or scratch around through the mulch. Any barrier can be defeated, but before going OTT with mesh (bird, not chicken) and elaborate preparation the grower should have a good look around and assess the threat first. Probably not so much of a hassle with smaller grows, but it all has to be carted in to begin with.
In recent years the number of ultralights buzzing around my area has been a worry so if the site is out in the open a bit of cammo netting from army surplus will help disrupt the view from overhead without compromising the light too much.
Forgot to ask the OP how often the grower intends visiting the plots and whether he/she will be doing the work alone. Ideally, go there once to survey, once to set-up and plant, once to check for/pull males or hermaphrodites and once to harvest. That's what remote growing is all about. Have to say that it always had me worrying about my plants and in the end taking unnecessary risks going out checking when I should have left them be. Couldn't help myself. I've been burned out, munched by bandits, ripped-off, white-anted and in the end gave the away-game away despite having some pretty good years. Reckon I'll leave guerilla-grows to the keen. All the best.

 

[gordonfreeman]

^ This is a stupid question but cockies? Never heard that one before, what are they?

Cockies are slang for contractors who work temporarily on farms (I think?)

 

[losthippy]

A cocky is a farmer or landowner where I come from. Sometimes state forest of remnant bush is adjacent to their properties or via roads that pass by farm houses. Everyone knows their neighbors and as said before they get a bit twitchy when out-of-towners turn-up.

 

[pisspotnrock]

Ill start off by sayin Ill keep this brief and reply with more detailed responses/questions at a later date as the fuck-tonne of valium I just ate before is kickin in and I think its time to go relax, roll up a spliff and chuck on some fleetwood mac %)

I cant thank yous all enough for the hints, tips and advice you guys have provided so far... losthippy, I was actually thinking you'de be the first to reply to this thread your knowledge and experience with growing mull (and in general horticulture) is awsome... I have read alot of your posts on various threads of BL and have learnt a fair bit from them, and I thank you for that

thanks for the advice busty.. I was thinkin of ditchin the tarp idea but since creating this thread, then just a couple of days ago I have had lengthy conversations with a couple of dope growers from over here sayin that used to use the tarp method back in the late 70's early 80s and because of the hot, dry climate we have over here apposed to over east (in certain locations), root rot isnt a problem as long as they're is a handful of small holes cut out at the bottom of the tarp (obviously depending on the amount of plants in the plot). ps. I fuckn love your idea of an artificial pond... digging one out near by to the plot in a low-lying area, and with plenty of natural debris floating on the surface (one would obviously have to gather this from near by n just simply throw into the 'pond') would be a very discrete way to have your own little natural water supply...

ok, Im off for the time being..

 

[losthippy]

@pp&r - Always happy to help. At risk of being long-winded, the kids' swimming pool idea might come in handy for other hardy souls opting for a remote grow. The trip is not having to sweat so much about watering and done right it's something to grin about. I'll step-by-step it so here goes. You'll need:

a kid's swimming/paddle pool - the kind with the light tubularaluminum frame you feed through the material to give it shape. They're around 2.2m square x 30cm deep.
2x timber battens or similar a little longer than the width of the pool.
Shade cloth 1.5x the surface area of the pool.
Weed mat, old carpet underlay or shade cloth cut to size as above.
Poly overflows x 8 and cable ties or twitching wire from most hardware stores.

Once you've got the bits on-site:

Build the pool
Evenly space and then fix the battens securely across the pool to the pool frame using the ties or wire
Roll the shade cloth across the pool over the battens and fix one end firmly to one side of the pool frame
Now the tricky bit: push the shade cloth between the fixed edge and first batten down so that the bottom of the 'gully' is a few cm's off the bottom of the pool.
Nail/staple/tie the shade cloth along the first batten to hold it in place.
Push down the next gully between the 2 battens and fix it to the second batten as above.
Repeat for the next gully before fixing it to the pool frame and trimming off the excess.
Cut a couple of holes through each side of the pool material 3-5cm up from the bottom and screw in the poly overflows.
Load each gully with your soil mix and 'hill' each row rather than leveling it off.
Lay your shade cloth/underlay/weed mat over the top, fixing it to the battens and both sides of the pool.

You now have 3 raised rows, the bottoms of each suspended above the bottom of the pool. The space under the rows is a reservoir the roots will eventually dip into. Water making it's way through the soil mass is collected and the overflows stop the risk of flooding. Set in place early enough the winter rains will prime the pool ready for cuttings or seedlings to go straight in when the time is right. Simply cut X's along each hill, drop your seedlings/cuttings in, water them and walk away whistling. Underlay seems to work best but each to their own? I've seen this system rigged to a wheely bin (filled over
winter) via a hose with a cheap float valve so the pool never runs dry and the grower never has to visit just to water.
Sounds elaborate and a hassle to set-up, but if you don't want to wear a beaten track to your grow watering every week then it's worth a think. Hooroo for now.




You now have 3 raised rows



Premium soil mix

 

[rockee]

The last few months around us, in the Illawarra area, we have been constantly annoyed by police helicopters searching through our bushland for plots. They have apparently located several very elaborate ones around Helensburgh / Otford area.
Then last weekend we went down the coast, Ulladulla way... and guess what was buzzing around for a couple of hours overhead ? damn police helicopter.
Geez, at $3000 per hour, is it really the best way to spend taxpayers money? Anyhow. Just saying, for what it's worth, they seem to be on the lookout at the moment.