^i agree! i've watched it a few times in the past week, and it's easily one of THE BEST movies i've ever watched. that girl totally steals the show; i've never been so mesmorized by a child actor in my life. at no point do you feel like you are watching a kid recite lines; her delivery is amazing.
the plot sucks you in from the opening scene, and i don't think it loses momentum at any point in the movie. between the costumes, the characters and the amazing locations, i found it to be flawless. I can't figure out the "R" rating, though. PG definitely, but for the most recent Batman to be a PG13, this is so below that on the disturbing level. Yes, there is some mature content (and i won't even give any away for those who haven't seen it), but it's nothing compared to the violence and level of darkness that many action and horror films get by with today under a lesser rating.
the fact that this movie actually makes me want to travel, just to see first hand some of the locations, says a lot about the asthetics. and for me to go out and actually BUY a movie (something i've only done once, ever!) says a lot more. this is one i really want to own, not download, because i'd probably feel guilty stealing it.