The trip was dominated largely by pink Peru, large pink Peru. If there is a part of this country not under the custody of 12000ft mountains, we are yet to find it. It does make you wonder how the conquistadors managed their conquests, though not why they did so. Actually forget the last six words of my subjective rubbish, conquering had nothing to do with aesthetic beauty, everything to do with the outrageous plunder of silver and gold and the imposition of the Catholic hegemony. As we were about to see.
First stop was a church in the middle of nowhere, a tiny village. I have no time for organized religion but plenty for organized architecture. Catholics are known for their ostentatious buildings (and some less virtuous things) and in this tiny village they had taken their impositions to new heights. Stolen wealth had created a high altar, a very high altar of 22ct gold. Perhaps this was their version of Inca duality, to contrast with the penniless beggars outside. But there was something strange and highly noticeable high up at the very top of the altar. A 22ct sun. A pagan symbol in a Catholic church. We learned this was part of a bribe. In order to more easily convert the Inca pagans they allowed them some of their own symbols of worship to be placed in the church. We also later learned that some of the Incas, who were often forced to construct the Catholic churches on their own sacred sites built in their own symbols surreptitiously. And this is why you can often find Catholic churches all over Peru with coca leaves etched subversively into the masonry.