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DMT: Freeze precip problem/Heat degradation/Theory to crash out fumarate

Deinonychus

Bluelighter
Joined
Oct 20, 2012
Messages
401
Hello all! I have a question about the stability of DMT when heated. I did indeed google and then UTFSE here on Bluelight and I haven't found an answer that is specific enough to answer my question, so I'm going to post it up here. I'm aware there is a DMT extraction megathread, and I read through a fair portion of it, but I ultimately decided to post this as a new thread instead of adding it into the extraction megathread because I want to ensure maximum visibility in the hopes that doing so will make it more likely that I will find an answer to the problem using the collective knowledge of this forum. So here goes...

To those disinclined to reading through the long-form explanation, I summarized everything at the bottom as four questions. Thanks!

Background:

I performed an extraction of DMT from Mimosa hostilis rootbark powder using NaOH and naphtha in a 'straight to base' extraction. The extraction was repeated with naphtha a total of four times per jar, to ensure that the yield was as high as possible, and for the last two of the four extractions, more NaOH was added and then followed by some NaCl to increase the polarity of the aqueous phase as much as possible. The organic layers of the four extractions were then combined, and filtered through filter paper using a Büchner funnel and vacuum pump, though the naphtha appeared to be completely devoid of MHRB powder particles upon initial visual examination, which was confirmed by a lack of any impurities on the filter paper when filtration was complete.

The final action was to put the solution of DMT in naphtha into the freezer, cranking the fridge to its coldest setting while also directing the great majority of that cold air into the freezer compartment instead of the normal fridge partition. Freeze precipitation then ensued, resulting in gorgeous freebase DMT at yields that really surprised me, considering that I had expected only 2/3 as much final product.

The problem:

While freeze precipitation worked perfectly for the first few jars of naphtha, for some reason the last few jars of the stuff yielded nothing when put into the freezer, despite being just as golden-colored as the first few jars. I cannot figure out why this would be! I tried adding some of the dried DMT freebase as a 'seed', as one would do with some crystals, with no result. I also eliminated a fair measure of the naphtha in one of the jars via plain old evaporation, but though the color of the solution got deeper and more vibrant, still nothing would precipitate out.

So could anybody perhaps venture a guess as to what might be causing freeze precipitation to fail? I checked the temperature of the freezer, and it was just as low as it had been for the initial few jars where the freeze precip worked great. Freeze precipitation is based on a very well-understood and simple process, that being the large difference in the solubility of DMT in naphtha as the temperature drops from warm, roughly 30 °C to almost -20 °C in this case. As the solubility of the stuff in naphtha drops with the temperature, the solution becomes supersaturated, causing some of the product to (slowly) crash out of solution. The process is so basic and fundamental that I can't figure out what the reason would be that it wouldn't work! Can anybody help me out with solving this mystery?

The options I have thought of as workarounds:

1. Further evaporate the naphtha. This leads me to ask the question of how DMT reacts to heat. Would it break down if I were to use a lab-grade hotplate to heat up the solution to aid in the evaporation? Is there a temperature above which the product will break down? Naphtha such as I have used boils somewhere between 30 and 90 °C, so considering that large range I can't predict specifically how hot it will have to be to boil, so instead of asking whether DMT is safe at a given temp (whatever the boiling point of my naphtha turns out to be), I'll ask if there's a limit to how high the temp can be allowed to go before degradation takes place.

2. Crashing out as a salt. I'm familiar with the fact that the DMT hemifumarate (one fumaric acid ion will bond to two ions of DMT) salt is for all intents and purposes insoluble in acetone, especially if you first saturate the acetone with fumaric acid, while freebase DMT and fumaric acid themselves are soluble in acetone. Fumaric acid is not soluble in naphtha, so you can't just crash the DMT out as hemifumarate from naphtha directly, but acetone and naphtha are themselves miscible. This leads me to wonder if it would work to saturate your acetone with fumaric acid, then add to naphtha/DMT solution. If the DMT and fumaric acid were then able to meet, the resulting salt would be insoluble in either the naphtha or the acetone, allowing it to precipitate out. This would be intended as a workaround for the lack of solubility of fumaric acid in naphtha itself.

However, I have no idea if saturating the acetone with fumaric acid and then adding to the DMT in naphtha solution would result in the salt or whether it would just further dilute the solution, with the fumaric acid becoming a contaminant, as my chemistry knowledge doesn't go that deep. Anybody have a better understanding of the concepts that underlie this theory?

In summary:

1. Does anybody have a clue why freeze precip would work beautifully for the first half of a batch of DMT in naphtha and yet not work for the second half?

2. Is DMT freebase sensitive to heat? Or better put since everything is ultimately sensitive to heat if the temp is high enough, at what temperature does DMT begin to degrade? This is pertinent to evaporating the naphtha solvent using a hot plate with teflon stir-bar.

3. Acetone and naphtha are miscible. DMT freebase is soluble in both solvents. Fumaric acid is mildly soluble in acetone, but not naphtha, and DMT hemifumarate is insoluble in both naphtha and for practical purposes, acetone. Thus could you precipitate out DMT hemifumarate from naphtha by adding fumaric acid saturated acetone dropwise, thus getting around the lack of solubility for fumaric acid in naphtha alone?

4. Any other ideas for either determining why freeze precipitation stopped working/for getting the goods out of naphtha besides the aforementioned evaporation or theoretical idea to crash out the fumarate? I'm down with getting it out as base or as a salt, as the salt can be subsequently liberated to base, but would prefer not to have to extract to aqueous solution as water is harder to evap than naphtha anyway.

Any help would be ultimate awesomeness and very much appreciated!

Thanks
D

EDIT:
To clarify, the contents of all the precipitation jars was homogenous prior to successfully precipitating from some of them. In other words the amount of DMT solute per volume of solvent was basically identical in all jars. This is why it confused me that the first few jars did precip properly and the last few did not.

It's also worth mentioning that when the unsuccessful precip jars are chilled to their proper temperature, they become massively hazy, to the point of being opaque. This seems to indicate that perhaps the precipitation is actually happening, but that the size of the resulting solids is so small that they are staying suspended in the naphtha rather than settling to the bottom.
 
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I wouldn't worry to much, after experimenting, by wash fiv even, unless the bark was super potent, there would rarely be more than 40-150mgs. The sixth wash almost always had barely fifty in it. Here's a simple solution unless you desperately need more now, just save them and reuse the naphtha. After removing the freeze precip I would always toss it back to reuse.
 
You will have to clarify which of these two scenarios is happening.

1. You divided a bunch of (homogenous) MHRB-in-hexane into a bunch of (homogenous) jars. Some of them precipitated, others did not.

In this case... heat the jars back up to a warm room (25-30C), add a little extra naptha and mix it around well, and then put them back in a really cold freezer. wait 20 minutes and if nothing appears, throw a seed crystal in, and wait a day or so. basically, restart the crystallisation.

2. You're running a freeze precipitation over and over on the same juice.

In this case, no more DMT left.

Consider The Following, as bill nye would say: people smoke freebase DMT fairly successfully all the time, so it can't be *that* unstable. Not that I would leave it for weeks on end, but heating on a hotplate for 20-40 mins is no big deal.
 
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Is DMT freebase sensitive to heat? Or better put since everything is ultimately sensitive to heat if the temp is high enough, at what temperature does DMT begin to degrade? This is pertinent to evaporating the naphtha solvent using a hot plate with teflon stir-bar.
according to wikipedia:
Melt. point 40 °C (104 °F)
Boiling point 160 °C (320 °F) @ 0.6 Torr (also reported as 80 – 135 °C @ 0.03 Torr)

according to tihkal:
"As to melting points, some in the literature are of plant isolates and other are of synthetic samples. A brief and incomplete survey has revealed the following numbers, all in °C: 44, 44.6-46.8, 46, 47, 48-49, 49-50, 56-57, 57-59, 58-60, 64-67, 67 and 67-68. The 58-60 and 64-67 values are from the Aldrich Chemical Company, for samples bearing the purity claims of "puriss" and 99+% "Gold Label" resp. The Merck Index gives the very early, very low values of 46 °C and 44.6-46.8 °C and claimes that the bp is 60-80 °C with atmospheric pressure being implied. It is clearly in error on both matters. No evidence has been published suggesting polymorphism. The published mp values for the trimethyl quaternary iodide span the range from 188 °C to 233 °C, including in-between values of 197 °C and 216-217 °C. This physical property is of limited value."
 
You will have to clarify which of these two scenarios is happening.

1. You divided a bunch of (homogenous) MHRB-in-hexane into a bunch of (homogenous) jars. Some of them precipitated, others did not.

In this case... heat the jars back up to a warm room (25-30C), add a little extra naptha and mix it around well, and then put them back in a really cold freezer. wait 20 minutes and if nothing appears, throw a seed crystal in, and wait a day or so. basically, restart the crystallisation.

2. You're running a freeze precipitation over and over on the same juice.

In this case, no more DMT left.

Consider The Following, as bill nye would say: people smoke freebase DMT fairly successfully all the time, so it can't be *that* unstable. Not that I would leave it for weeks on end, but heating on a hotplate for 20-40 mins is no big deal.

Good call, should have been more specific: it's the first scenario. The quantity of MHRB powder I had was not gonna fit in a single container, so I used many wide jars instead. So now after removing the naphtha there's several jars of solution. They were all filled simultaneously, rather than sequentially, filling all the jars up to a given level a little at a time. The result is that the naphtha from the various extraction jars was added to the precipitation jars, taking each extraction jar and splitting its nonpolar layer amongst the various extraction jars. That was intentionally to ensure the concentration in each of the precipitation jars was as similar as possible, yielding multiple jars or homogenous solution. That's why the failure to precipitate was so confusing, all the jars being loaded with the same liquid.

Ill definitely try the seed crystal again. Perhaps I didn't put enough dried product in as seed? I'll find out soon enough.

It does seem that the stuff is precipitating, but the resulting solids are so fine-grained that they stay suspended in the naphtha indefinitely instead of settling to the bottom. The visual cue that makes me think this is the case is the massively hazy nature of the jars when at the final low temperature. When room temp they're clear as day, but upon freezing the liquid is basically opaque with haze.

Ill update the OP with the clarification about the contents of the solution and the haze.

according to wikipedia:
Melt. point 40 °C (104 °F)
Boiling point 160 °C (320 °F) @ 0.6 Torr (also reported as 80 – 135 °C @ 0.03 Torr)

according to tihkal:
"As to melting points, some in the literature are of plant isolates and other are of synthetic samples. A brief and incomplete survey has revealed the following numbers, all in °C: 44, 44.6-46.8, 46, 47, 48-49, 49-50, 56-57, 57-59, 58-60, 64-67, 67 and 67-68. The 58-60 and 64-67 values are from the Aldrich Chemical Company, for samples bearing the purity claims of "puriss" and 99+% "Gold Label" resp. The Merck Index gives the very early, very low values of 46 °C and 44.6-46.8 °C and claimes that the bp is 60-80 °C with atmospheric pressure being implied. It is clearly in error on both matters. No evidence has been published suggesting polymorphism. The published mp values for the trimethyl quaternary iodide span the range from 188 °C to 233 °C, including in-between values of 197 °C and 216-217 °C. This physical property is of limited value."

Thanks! I did look up the relevant melting and boiling points, but I was not sure how the boiling point of the freebase related to the temp at which it would begin to denature. However, your post got me thinking: logically if I keep the temp of the naphtha below the boiling point of the DMT I should be okay, since presumably the temp at which DMT begins to degrade would be higher than its boiling point!

Thanks for the input guys, is appreciated!
 
It does seem that the stuff is precipitating, but the resulting solids are so fine-grained that they stay suspended in the naphtha indefinitely instead of settling to the bottom. The visual cue that makes me think this is the case is the massively hazy nature of the jars when at the final low temperature. When room temp they're clear as day, but upon freezing the liquid is basically opaque with haze.

This is irritating, but that's crystallisation for you. The E-Z option is to filter out the fine particulate of DMT and recrystallise it from fresh naptha.

Part of it may be your mixture was actually less homogenous than you'd hoped.
 
let all your naphta that does not precip evap completly on a large dish or plate. if there's anything to scrape off, its something you might want to collect and recrystallize with some drops of fresh naphta. use a waterbath to heat the reX solution until its clear as water and get rid of any possible yellow goo and impurities on the bottom. let it come to room temperature and if it looks cloudy as semen put it in a shotglass and cover it with plastic foil and let the crystals grow at room temperature (takes 12-24 hours, depending on how much material you have and how saturated the solution was).

not only does that result in beautiful glass-like shards, it also eliminates extraction impurities and plant material in the final product that often is the reason for harsh smoke.

despite many teks, one does not need the ammonia or sodium carbonate wash. one or 2 recrystallization will lead to a far superior result than any wash.
 
The reason for the discrepancy between ayahuasca/DMT brews being boiled for hours and DMT freebase evaporating at temperatures lower than that is that when you start with your mimosa it isn't in freebase form. The DMT apparently exists as the tannate salt and forms similar to that, which is apparently thermostable and non-volatile.

In your case though, you could expect some loss of DMT when evaporating all the naphtha.
Also, the golden color is not DMT which is white. Yes the color is indicative because the yellow compounds like the oils typically are extracted together with the DMT, but if you were very successful with the early pulls then it is possible you only extracted those oils but no more DMT - or rather than no DMT, not enough to reach a critical saturation point resulting in crystallization. So reducing the volume is probably necessary anyway, but you could try freeze-preciping after partial reduction first, which would give a better purity and less loss of product because you boiled it less.
 
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Thanks very very much for the input fellows, it's much appreciated! I've definitely got enough answers to finish out the extraction.

That said, to slake my curiosity, is my idea of using fumaric acid saturated acetone added dropwise to the naphtha/DMT solution totally nonsense? I'll be going with (low) heat-assisted evap in any case, but I'd still be curious if that might be a way to get around the nonsolubility of fumaric acid in naphtha in order to salt?
 
It'd be worth a try, but don't be suprised if it doesn't work and your "precipitate" is just fumaric acid. If you can find a precedent for someone who has done it before your chances of success are probably better.

A better option would be removing a majority of the naptha by e.g. evaporation, redissolving the material in acetone, and then adding fumarate to crash out alkaloid salts. Then take the ppt'd alkaloid salts, stir them into 10% lye in water, and extract the solution with more naptha. Dry naptha over anhydrous magnesium sulphate (baked out eposm salts) to rm extra water and then evaporate or freeze-precip to yield pure(er) DMT crystals.
 
In other words for the first step you mention, the purpose would be that instead of having the ratio of naphtha to acetone be very naphtha-heavy, reverse that ratio, by using much less naphtha than acetone, which would A keep the volume of solvent lower and thus increase concentration of all solutes, and B to increase solubility of the fumarate by virtue of having the majority of the solvent be acetone, am I right?

I already have some anhydrous acetone handy, but the extra step with dessicant would probably be prudent anyway in case any atmospheric moisture got into play.

Good call. That method with the reduced volume of naphtha would be great for a few other reasons as well:

It would also be much easier to do a little tiny test-batch, to ensure by weighing the precipitate that it is in fact DMT hemiF, and not just fumaric acid by itself. I'm sure that the yield won't be 100% (obviously) but by using a given amount of fumaric acid and adding that to the acetone/naphtha/DMT mix it will be easy to see if the final weight of product exceeds that of the added fumarate, as it should due to not only the extra molecular weight of the DMT but also because there is a 2:1 molar ratio of DMT to fumarate in the salt, making any increase in weight more obvious. This is in contrast to using fumaric acid saturated acetone, where the amount of fumarate can obviously be determined by weighing before adding it, *but* the solubility depends on temp and thus the molarity would change as some precipitated out if the temp dropped enough, etc.

Thanks man, definitely gonna try this out as well, just to satisfy my curiosity as to whether my supposition is reasonable.. or totally screwball off-target!
 
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