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Modified e-Cig for Honey Oil?

xXTOKERXx

Bluelighter
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
5,377
Hey all,

Just wanted to get an opinion, from what I've seen online most use a titanium needle and a blow torch when it comes to smoking concentrates. I've not seen anything in a good ten year and today someone happened to hand me a tiny amount of honey oil.

Now, being impatient to see what it was like and not having the tools mentioned above to hand thought I'd modify one of my Vapes/eCigs, the one with the large cyclinder battery, button on the side for smoking ejuice.

Anyhow, I basically pulled apart the atomiser to leave just a coil, removed the wick ripped a tiny bit and soaked in ejuice and wedge over the coil - to give an even burning surface and then applied a tiny dab, the size of a small pea re-attached the cyclinder and gave it a hit. first I took a tiny hit to see if it would rech temp and i got a puff of cloudy smoke, good sign. I need took a fews, 1-2 seconds at a time and multiple bursts. It gave me a rather good lung full and then I thought maybe it was out. Took it apart and most of the honey was gone / possibly lodged at the bottom of the coil either way had a good hit.

Now 10 minutes later I am certainly feeling buzzed, nice mellow high, comfortable.

I guess this thread is to ask, is that a really inefficient way of smoking it, and should warrant the investment in a decent bowl?

It's nice, but don't want to be wasting it away, kind of a rare treat!
 
A dab rig for vaporizing concentrates is the way to go. Just careful not to put any old oil in there. You need concentrates designed for it otherwise it'll spatter everywhere and can be dangerous. I'm not sure your honey oil is compatible. The dab rig is also dangerous for other reasons like the risk of burns, fires, etc.

I got nothing against the way you're doing it, but your element won't last very long, it'll get messy with residue and you'll get tired of doing it that way eventually. It might be inefficient if the heating element isn't hot enough. There are specialized vape pens out there that work very well for that kind of thing. You add your concentrate to the bowl in the vape pen and then it does the rest. Until then, enjoy.
 
Look up the vaped company. They have real nice skillets including one that wraps the coil around a ceramic bar or something rather than a wick. I highly recommend this skillet as the skillets with wick taste funky as they start to burn, but never really as hash stays soaked in it. The ones without the wick actually burn up all the hash pretty well.
 
A dab rig for vaporizing concentrates is the way to go. Just careful not to put any old oil in there. You need concentrates designed for it otherwise it'll spatter everywhere and can be dangerous. I'm not sure your honey oil is compatible. The dab rig is also dangerous for other reasons like the risk of burns, fires, etc.

I got nothing against the way you're doing it, but your element won't last very long, it'll get messy with residue and you'll get tired of doing it that way eventually. It might be inefficient if the heating element isn't hot enough. There are specialized vape pens out there that work very well for that kind of thing. You add your concentrate to the bowl in the vape pen and then it does the rest. Until then, enjoy.

interesting, what do you mean by splatter being dangerous and how does the fire pose a risk, heard a few comments but not really understood what the risk is?

compatibility, can you expand by any chance?

And last but not least, using old oil, what's wrong with that?

I opened her up, the wick was gooey, tiny bit black where the element had been rest, seems some was pulled onto the element and some was too far away.

Found the bit that I expose the coil with is a fairly decent container, so taken what looks to be good from the previous burn and applied in the cyclinder. I'll try it like this later tonight.

Honestly, just being a cheap skate right now to experiment but will invest in something properly to really enjoy it.
 
interesting, what do you mean by splatter being dangerous and how does the fire pose a risk, heard a few comments but not really understood what the risk is?

compatibility, can you expand by any chance?

And last but not least, using old oil, what's wrong with that?

I opened her up, the wick was gooey, tiny bit black where the element had been rest, seems some was pulled onto the element and some was too far away.

Found the bit that I expose the coil with is a fairly decent container, so taken what looks to be good from the previous burn and applied in the cyclinder. I'll try it like this later tonight.

Honestly, just being a cheap skate right now to experiment but will invest in something properly to really enjoy it.


For the record, the packing the chamber thing, not sure it worked, element died, not sure if that's because of the previous direct application or the fact the tube is blocked causing huge heat = broken coil.

I wonder if placing some form of ceramic material between coil and exposure is possible.

I get the coils really cheap, like 50 for $5 cheap - so this experiment is worth while!

So re ran tests, element only, new fresh, wick and tip removed. on naked execution it runs till the kill relay turns it off and ran consecutively 10 times with no fading results. This is on a fully charged 1000 MAH batter, no variable settings.

That suggests to me that it can run very hot and for a fairly decent amount of time.

Now need to get myself a thermometer and see if some form of ceramic plate can be applied and see what the heat transfer is like.



adding this in:

In order for the atomizer to function properly, the heating coil must be either immersed in liquid or positioned in a heavily saturated atmosphere, or it will overheat. The e-liquid acts as a coolant, keeping the atomizer working at temperatures of around 60 – 70 degrees Celsius. If it doesn’t have enough moisture to cool it down, the atomizer coil will overheat, reaching temperatures of up to 300 degrees Celsius, and eventually fail. Without any liquid to vaporize, it will burn the wick and filling material of the cartridge or cartomizer and melt the atomizer’s internal components. That’s why it’s very important to keep an eye on e-liquid levels at all times - See more at: http://vaperanks.com/what-is-an-atomizer/#sthash.BqXIRp8l.dpuf

and this

5v on single CE5 Atomiser produces 600+ in mmkw2 unusable, ecigs are happy with 50-200 mmkw2 roughly from searching just there.

So therefore the CE5's I'm using can produce 300c, and from other reading some how are limited to 250c.

Perfect range for vaping then...

mixed with ecig fluid is probably a bad idea due to not reaching vapor temperature of the oil... interesting fact too.

So some form of ceramic barrier and surface temp experiment could make this interesting.

Then to find out how quickly dabs/oil take to completely vapourise at certain temperatures.

Starting to see why companies have lots of special devices. That first hit this morning was a really decent hit and lasted a good few hours, the second test destroyed the coil. But that could be due to sticking paperclips and actual contact... I'm no scientist but's fun to play!
 
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I wish I could explain better why some oils spatter when you dab them and others don't. I always ask my budtender first if it'll work for dabbing. I'm guessing some oils still have a lot of moisture and when you put it in the dab rig it sends hot particles of oil flying everywhere. As for the fire risk, I'm talking about the dab rig here. Operating a blow torch to heat a quartz bowl that looks like glass when its hot while stoned isn't without its risk.
 
^I don't know what you're talking about dude.

Neither way is "safer" than the other. Obviously using a blow torch has inherent risks, but so do chemicals used in e-cigs...

Anyways... you should be able to EASILY mod your ecig to work with oils. You don't say what kind of "honey oil" but I'll assume it's BHO ("shatter" or something similar). If it's CO2 oil, which is much more viscous (more like oil than wax/resin), than you're in luck, as that's easier in a pen.

If you've got much experience you could probably figure it out yourself just based on companies like Vaped, G-Pen, Cloud, etc.. All of them use (or use to anyway, I don't use a pen anymore), off-the-shelf Chinese parts barely modified to work better with cannabis.

The best design I used was the Atmos Raw, but that's a bit more expensive. There's plenty of cheap 510 carts that work easily with cannabis, anything from the glass globe designs to something like the old shitty ecig carts (wicks on the sides, just with more open space at the top to load oil for each hit).

I wouldn't try a tank system unless it is CO2 oil. Co2 works ok with small size tanks (check out O-Pen or Bhang Pen for a model comparison). Mixing with PG/VG just makes the oil taste weird--ok for big commercial production but you'll end up wasting what you have.

When you're setting up the mod, keep in mind that shatter will take a slightly higher heat to melt than crumble or a sap-like consistency.
 
^I don't know what you're talking about dude.

Actually, I dab mostly so I didn't mean to make overly simplistic generalizations about safety. Just that there are more things to be aware of when dabbing. Also, if you've never experience spatter during dabbing, then be aware of possibility. I got some small burns from it. That's why when I dab it's mostly waxes, shatter etc, not oils. Nothing wrong with oils when they work, but when the oil spatters it's very unpleasant. I know I'm not the only person to have experienced this.
 
This is my honey oil rig,
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It's like the O-pen setup, the cartridges are disposable, and after i finish each one I pry the spent one open and dab that shit on joints, and blunts. it even makes A yummy stick of infused kief!

Oh there are a few types of reloadable cartridges, theres Sativa(for the wake and bake) a Hybrid for lunch, and a Indica for when I get off,relax.
All cost the same at most recreational weed shops in town, i'm sure they come even better then what I got now.
 
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