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[MEGA] 2010-2011 Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences

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Well I don't know about your bonemeal or whether the packet is even right but I am right in saying that bonemeal is mainly a source of phosphorus. IMO you'll get a better result from using other slow release base ferts in combination or in place of bonemeal.
 
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I had been using slow release, I used it once or twice, it said it "Won't burn plant"

Bs...



as for my bone meal 4-12-0, I guess that could be the same as 6-9-0.
 
Yes, I turned the soil, quite a few times, and just added some potting soil to the area I was turning .
Blah, I dont think Ill be able to save this plant, and yes, I went from a small cup, to a smaller pot , to the pot its in,

Sucks, my plant is so ugly now, I cant get rid of all these burned edges, the new growth on the plant is green, without burned edges, idk if I fixed the problem or if they will just do the same thing in 4-5 days, my outdoor plant no longer has bugs on it, I took care if it.
Hell, that plants leaves are doing better than these ones, no burn, no , and a nice clean topping job.

The plant Im doing right now, I have two of the lower branches tied town for lst, and it is topped, (this is my indoor plant)
 
Are they all clones from the same plant? If not it could still be nute burn. Can you get a better photo? Use the macro function of your camera.

they are seeds, bagseeds, I agree that it is nute burn cause i just fed them a day before this presented. see the twisty leaves? classic over nute. it just grew a shit load before it twisted.

NSFW:
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^this is the main issue and you cant really see but thats coming out of a rather large cola. I think im gonna flush and see what happens.

NSFW:
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^this is one of the ones that is healthy, It handled the nutes. as you can see Wise420 there is some N def so i'm not thinking its too much nitrogen. The lanky one in the back also has a great N def and it is the furthest along, although all you can see is one backbud.
 
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is yellowing of the leaves N def?
!?


My lower leaves keep going yellow, and when they die off, they just move upwards, and the very edges/ridges of the plant are burned, lemme try to go find the pic I took last night, with better res.
 
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If you look closely, you can see the burned edges on the older growth, newer growth, just the tips seemed to have been burned, Im sure that will travel fast down the leaf , because I have no clue with the problem is.


And its much MUCH worse than it appears in the pics,

Could this be K deficincy?



!!It is in Fact K deficincy, What do I do to ammend this!!
 
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^ hah. Make a kelp meal tea with black strap molasses.

AE I take offense to the perlite comments...... I am from the country you are talking shit about. Didnt we kick your ass a couple times? And dont you limey bastards pretty much follow us around like a epileptic King George Spaniel????

I am not lazy, it does aerate the soil, it also loosens it up (Hemp likes loose soil).

Prelude, feed the soil not the plants.
 
The comment about the perlite is the first comment ive ever come across over the 4 years of browsing cannabis sites.

Nearly every grower I know uses perlite, or something similar that is good for drainage.
 
thats what I am sayin (btw I love GB, been there many times rich in history etc) AE dude stop spreading misinformation.

Almost everything you have posted is not only contrary to what most expert organic guys say, but to common flippin sense.

If you want to school people then atleast post your soil mix, feeding reg, and composting practices. Until then we cant really understand where you are coming from.
 
Atleast Im not alone, was beggining to take some of these comments as insults...lol....

As for the indoor plant, My lower leaves are yellowing, the newer growth is bright green/yellowish, and, the tips are burned on the new growth now, (its moving to those areas now...sadly...

Dont know how to stop it, Ive flushed the plant due to thinking maybe it had to do with salinity, then I started nuting with the 5-1-1, Since I started that Ive been having problems, Ive flushed twice since using it, and started using diff nutes. Same nutes I was using my last grow....
Unfortunantly, I can't figure out whats wrong.
Im pretty sure it's a K deficincy, because the temps have been 82-83 lately. So, not bad temps. Cant be burning from that.

If over watering a plant could cause this, this might be part of the problem, but , Im kind of confused, as , on my last grow, my plants roots went deep down, and weren't in the first 2-3 inches of soil. I always mixed the top soil to aerate it. I was mixing the top a little today and noticed that there are roots not even 1/2 inch down in the soil, roots pretty much start where the plant meets soil, idk.


I want to flush it again, but I wanna wait a few days to give it some dry time....


I'm going to go get a new ph scale, start watering at 6.0 with nutes, and some added minerals to the water.
Ive heard that ph/up/down can use nute lock out, so its part of the reason Id rather use lemons and what not to try to get everything in order...

My plant outdoors isn't yellowing, its doing quite well actually , it just doesnt have anywhere close to the amount of tops that my indoor plant has, which is kinda weird to me since most people said Id get better results outdoors, but that plant has had problems since the beggining, and the temps out there are pretty ridiculous, hopefully things can work out.



Anyways, Im gonna take some pics with my phone, tied town most of the branches from the main two topped colas, whats weird is the two topped branches , well, one just started pushing out 2 more separate branches, the other only is pushing one. Growth of these new stems are fragile, skinny, soft, and very bendy.
 
Plants will seem happier and healthier outdoors but indoors they grow alot quicker because of consistency with lights.

Using pH up or down is the cure to fixing pH problems, not cuasing them. You wont have problems with using the proper products.

Your pH might be out, and that could be causing the K def.
 
I think you need to stop fucking them so much, quit flushing so much worrying about the old leaves the ph and trying to make lots of tops.. let them be i feel like all these problems you have are mostly self inflicted.

let the soil dry out then give it plain water for a little while, back off the nutes till shit stabilizes the slowly build up the amount until you reach their full meal size.


let nature do its thing and just give it the shit it needs, by the time you flower there will be so many branches you wont even care about one leaf looking funny
 
wise, i think he is growing all organic. Traditional pH up/down aren't congruent with this method.

Prelude, THIS is the complete guide to sick plants, pH, and pest problems on icmag. Just read the whole thing, its full of great info, even if it isn't specific to your problems. I guarantee it covers whatever your problem is. I am going to read it again now, jut for the fuck of it. Also, have you created an account there yet? a million times better than trying to ask your questions here. I'm not saying stop, I enjoy hearing about your grow, but some of those guys do this as a living.
 
well, it is the best... but who honestly is going to sort through 21 pages of posts for a link they didnt know existed? That was last grow for him anyway, so i doubt he is rechecking that part of the thread. But yea, wolf, good lookin
 
burnt tips = nute burn, the ec in the rootzone is higher than the ec of the sap inside the plant causing water to be sucked out the plant and this will show at the extremities first i.e leaf tips.
 
Well, it might be nute burn, I havent given nutes for about 5 days, problem is still persisting, Ive just been giving water....Newer leaves are starting to turn bright green/yellowish and starting to have burnt tips as well...Lower shade leaves are turning completely yellow , (with brown burned edges) and then just fall off the plant...)
Really don't know what to do here.

Im wondering if I should just throw this plant into flower , get what I can out of it, and start a new one...
(still have 5 Northern Lights(Femmed) seeds left, and 10 Skunk X Haze seeds left (not fem))
 
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Having to little of Potassium in your plants causes the plants leaves to show retarded growth and show a scorched tip and edges around the leaves. Plants may stretch and your branches can be easily broken or weak. Don’t get this deficiency confused with iron, because it almost acts like iron but to tell the difference in the two is: for potassium the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die. Older leaves may show a red color and leaves could curl upwards. Dead patches (Necrosis) can happen on the margins of larger fan leaves thus, the leaves will eventually die off and turn brown. The Older leaves will show different patches of color (mottle) and turn yellow between the veins, following by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. The plants overall growth slows down, mostly when they are in vegetative stage. To little amount of potassium also slows the growth of buds during flowering stages. Dark edges will appear around the edges of the leaf when the deficiency is starting to happen. When your Relative humidity is low, you can almost bet your going to soon get a potassium deficiency from your plants perspiration.
Potassium can get poorly absorbed when having too much Calcium or ammonium nitrogen, and maybe cold weather. Having to much sodium (Na) causes potassium to be displaced. SO keep those in mind… Parts affected by a Potassium Deficiency are: older leaves and leaf margins.

When plants exhibit a Calcium deficiency the younger leaves are the first to show it as well as older leaves. The Leaf tips will die back, the tips may curl, and growth of the plant is stunted. The plant can show a weakness in the stems and branches, as well as a under developed root system that can lead to bacteria problems with roots dieing off. Having slow plant transpiration rates can aggravate the uptake of calcium. Make sure your soil isn’t very acidic, for calcium gets harder to be absorbed through acidic soils, Which leads to having a plant that is deficient in Calcium. The leaf tips, edges and new growth will or may turn a yellow/brown color that happen in spots and often surrounded by a sharp brown outlined edge and then the leaf tips die back. If too much calcium is given at an early stage of growth it can stunt the growth of your plants. Having to much of calcium will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium. The parts affected by a calcium deficiency are the roots. Stem or petiole, young or old leaves.

taken from The Complete Guide to Sick Plants, pH, and Pest Problems on ICMAG.

I would bet K, but maybe calcium? There are a couple other deficiencies that look kind of the same but only you can really tell. There are some great pictures that give examples on that thread.
 
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