Mason Jar Bong DIY
Seeking input, advice, and fresh ideas from anyone in hopes of collaborating a safe quality bong standard for personal use.
This site is my new go to for questions regarding personal use, and safety and surprisingly deep knowledge.
Thank you to anyone in advance who can help refine the ideas posted here.
Making a mason jar bong is one I aspire to make perfect in several ways, and hope this post finds everyone well in their time of need.
Any criticism given is highly appreciated.
Noticed that even when cleaned, other forms of consumption take a bad toll. Hot rails seem to be less detrimental than eating or sniffing, but is too intense; day to day functionability seems hindered unless smoked through a water filter.
I have begun to order what is needed for a good quality bong, with a budget in mind.
Bowl, downstem, and diffusion.
12 inch long, 12mm wide, with 2mm wall purex tubes to start.
Ideally heating 2 bends creating a *Z* shape. Via 45 degree bends.
First end long enough to be the downstem -- 9 inches. Downstem end.
Second end just long enough to load product in -- 1/2 inch. Bowl end.
This leaves approximately 2 inches in the middle.
Much like hot rails; the first bend on the downstem end would be heated almost red when smoking.
Leaving enough distance as to not melt your product or burn yourself on the bowl end, depending on whether loaded before or after heating.
Will this waste product? As hotrails have your nasal cavity to catch residuals.
A bubble would be nice, and easily achieving the same downstem potential.
Vinyl tubing is the next best option for a downstem, and may be required for a diffuser.
One T fitting to make a "Halo" diffuser.
One length of vinyl tube on 2 ends of a T fitting with perferated holes no larger than 1/8 inch. Probably 1/16 inch.
Followed by another length of vinyl tubing to attach this to the downstem end of the pyrex tube.
Mason Jar Bong
My goal is to achieve a solution to a few key problems any bong has.
1. As much water as possible inside the mason jar.
This will eliminate much of the noise and mechanical loss due to less open-to-air surface area inside.
2. Splash guard/neck attachment
When a bong is too full you can expect water coming up the neck.
My solution to this would be to (food safe) glue a funnel upside-down ontop of the lid which would allow vinyl tubing to simply fit onto the narrow end of the funnel.
With multiple 1/16 - 1/8 inch holes through the jar lid where the funnel covers -- this should stop water sucking into the neck piece.
3. Have the bowl, downstem, diffuser, splash guard and neck attached to the lid. For ease of use.
This could easily convert perfectly for marijuana/shatter use.
Additional input on whether metal, vinyl or any materials would react with the product, or be unsafe to ones health is appreciated.
Thanks guys!
P.S. I do not condone or encourage criminal activity. Here in B.C. Canada Marijuana is legal and hard drugs are decriminalized. So remember, it ain't bad if you're not breaking the law. Hah.
Seeking input, advice, and fresh ideas from anyone in hopes of collaborating a safe quality bong standard for personal use.
This site is my new go to for questions regarding personal use, and safety and surprisingly deep knowledge.
Thank you to anyone in advance who can help refine the ideas posted here.
Making a mason jar bong is one I aspire to make perfect in several ways, and hope this post finds everyone well in their time of need.
Any criticism given is highly appreciated.
Noticed that even when cleaned, other forms of consumption take a bad toll. Hot rails seem to be less detrimental than eating or sniffing, but is too intense; day to day functionability seems hindered unless smoked through a water filter.
I have begun to order what is needed for a good quality bong, with a budget in mind.
Bowl, downstem, and diffusion.
12 inch long, 12mm wide, with 2mm wall purex tubes to start.
Ideally heating 2 bends creating a *Z* shape. Via 45 degree bends.
First end long enough to be the downstem -- 9 inches. Downstem end.
Second end just long enough to load product in -- 1/2 inch. Bowl end.
This leaves approximately 2 inches in the middle.
Much like hot rails; the first bend on the downstem end would be heated almost red when smoking.
Leaving enough distance as to not melt your product or burn yourself on the bowl end, depending on whether loaded before or after heating.
Will this waste product? As hotrails have your nasal cavity to catch residuals.
A bubble would be nice, and easily achieving the same downstem potential.
Vinyl tubing is the next best option for a downstem, and may be required for a diffuser.
One T fitting to make a "Halo" diffuser.
One length of vinyl tube on 2 ends of a T fitting with perferated holes no larger than 1/8 inch. Probably 1/16 inch.
Followed by another length of vinyl tubing to attach this to the downstem end of the pyrex tube.
Mason Jar Bong
My goal is to achieve a solution to a few key problems any bong has.
1. As much water as possible inside the mason jar.
This will eliminate much of the noise and mechanical loss due to less open-to-air surface area inside.
2. Splash guard/neck attachment
When a bong is too full you can expect water coming up the neck.
My solution to this would be to (food safe) glue a funnel upside-down ontop of the lid which would allow vinyl tubing to simply fit onto the narrow end of the funnel.
With multiple 1/16 - 1/8 inch holes through the jar lid where the funnel covers -- this should stop water sucking into the neck piece.
3. Have the bowl, downstem, diffuser, splash guard and neck attached to the lid. For ease of use.
This could easily convert perfectly for marijuana/shatter use.
Additional input on whether metal, vinyl or any materials would react with the product, or be unsafe to ones health is appreciated.
Thanks guys!
P.S. I do not condone or encourage criminal activity. Here in B.C. Canada Marijuana is legal and hard drugs are decriminalized. So remember, it ain't bad if you're not breaking the law. Hah.