FunctionalOlfactio
Bluelighter
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2013
- Messages
- 239
I am usually well behaved, but each year when the weather changes I start getting antsy. There is always a month or two I am itching to do something. I could be impulsive and purchase a fad research chemical, this year I am focusing on more valuable experiences. Here is how I kept myself out of trouble this year.
D.I.Y. ultraviolet L.E.D. flash light.
With the increasing prevalence of fake L.S.D. I wanted an inexpensive and reliable way to field test blotter while camping or attending a festival. Reagents are expensive, incriminating, and destroy the material tested so I decided a ultraviolet light is more practical. I looked locally and on line and didn't find exactly what I wanted. Here is how I made my own with parts from a local Radio Shack. I had a flash light to convert so this project cost me about $5.00.
Supplies:
-L.E.D. flash light that can be dissembled. (~$5 from WalMart)
-Ultrabright ultraviolet L.E.D.s (~$.75ea from Radio Shack)
Tools:
-Soldering iron (~$10 from Radio Shack)
-Solider (~$2 from Radio Shack)
-Needle nose pliers or tweezers
Procedures:
-I chose a machined metal L.E.D. flash light driven by three AAA batteries in series. I have multiple similar flash lights and they are all dissembled the same way. The inside metal tube is threaded and the circuit board is held in place with threaded metal disks. The disks have two indentations on them used to turn them. Often you can use friction from your finger to turn them or you might need to place a small metal object in the indentations to turn the disk. Rotate the disk until it comes out an releases the circuit board with the L.E.D.s.
*Plastic flash lights are different and often held together with snaps. These are challenging to dissemble without breaking the saps.
-Once the circuit board is out you can determine the polarity of the circuit by the orientation of L.E.D. anodes. (Diagram: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:LED,_5mm,_green_(en).svg) Make a note of this.
-Remove the L.E.D.s from the circuit board individually by placing a heated soldiering iron simultaneously touching both leads melting the old solider. While doing this pull the L.E.D. out by the lens using the tweezers or needle nose pliers.
-Place the new L.E.D.s on the circuit board by threading them through the holes that held the original ones. Leave the leads long and make sure the anodes are oriented the same as the originals. Most L.E.D.s will burn out if the polarity is incorrect.
-Solider the new L.E.D.s in place one lead at a time using as little solider as possible. Be careful to keep solider from leaking to other leads or other conduits as this will cause a short circuit.
-Trim the leads of the new L.E.D.s flush to the circuit board with the wire cutting part of the needle nose pliers.
-Reassemble flash light.
Here are the specifications of the ultraviolet L.E.D. Radio Shacks keep in the parts drawers.
Wavelength: 405 nm
Viewing angle: 20 degrees
FW current: 20ma
FW supply: 3.3V (typical), 4.0V (max.)
My flash light looks indistinguishable from the original until you turn the power on. I don't have access to ergoloids, but P. Harmala extract floresces obviously even when on bright white paper.
Whoever might have interest in this project you are welcome to ask questions. If you are inexperienced with this type of electronics work I can walk you through the project in greater detail in this thread.
D.I.Y. ultraviolet L.E.D. flash light.
With the increasing prevalence of fake L.S.D. I wanted an inexpensive and reliable way to field test blotter while camping or attending a festival. Reagents are expensive, incriminating, and destroy the material tested so I decided a ultraviolet light is more practical. I looked locally and on line and didn't find exactly what I wanted. Here is how I made my own with parts from a local Radio Shack. I had a flash light to convert so this project cost me about $5.00.
Supplies:
-L.E.D. flash light that can be dissembled. (~$5 from WalMart)
-Ultrabright ultraviolet L.E.D.s (~$.75ea from Radio Shack)
Tools:
-Soldering iron (~$10 from Radio Shack)
-Solider (~$2 from Radio Shack)
-Needle nose pliers or tweezers
Procedures:
-I chose a machined metal L.E.D. flash light driven by three AAA batteries in series. I have multiple similar flash lights and they are all dissembled the same way. The inside metal tube is threaded and the circuit board is held in place with threaded metal disks. The disks have two indentations on them used to turn them. Often you can use friction from your finger to turn them or you might need to place a small metal object in the indentations to turn the disk. Rotate the disk until it comes out an releases the circuit board with the L.E.D.s.
*Plastic flash lights are different and often held together with snaps. These are challenging to dissemble without breaking the saps.
-Once the circuit board is out you can determine the polarity of the circuit by the orientation of L.E.D. anodes. (Diagram: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:LED,_5mm,_green_(en).svg) Make a note of this.
-Remove the L.E.D.s from the circuit board individually by placing a heated soldiering iron simultaneously touching both leads melting the old solider. While doing this pull the L.E.D. out by the lens using the tweezers or needle nose pliers.
-Place the new L.E.D.s on the circuit board by threading them through the holes that held the original ones. Leave the leads long and make sure the anodes are oriented the same as the originals. Most L.E.D.s will burn out if the polarity is incorrect.
-Solider the new L.E.D.s in place one lead at a time using as little solider as possible. Be careful to keep solider from leaking to other leads or other conduits as this will cause a short circuit.
-Trim the leads of the new L.E.D.s flush to the circuit board with the wire cutting part of the needle nose pliers.
-Reassemble flash light.
Here are the specifications of the ultraviolet L.E.D. Radio Shacks keep in the parts drawers.
Wavelength: 405 nm
Viewing angle: 20 degrees
FW current: 20ma
FW supply: 3.3V (typical), 4.0V (max.)
My flash light looks indistinguishable from the original until you turn the power on. I don't have access to ergoloids, but P. Harmala extract floresces obviously even when on bright white paper.
Whoever might have interest in this project you are welcome to ask questions. If you are inexperienced with this type of electronics work I can walk you through the project in greater detail in this thread.
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