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5-Meo-dmt HCL

B

barera

Bluelighter
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
144
I've just aquired some 5meo-dmt hcl. What is the best way to take it as i've heard the it cant be smoked unless its freebase. is it possible to turn it into a more smokable form?
 
Dissolve it in water add enough NaOH to get the ph to 11-12, extract with a nonpolar solvent, evaporate, and enjoy.
 
Smoking the salt seems possible: link

But I'd say it depends on your method of vaporization. Light bulbs, maybe not. A vape device, maybe yes.

Don't wanna post out of turn but to elaborate salting:

- Dissolve the 5-MeO-DMT . HCl in water, preferably distilled water and not a very big volume, but enough to
dissolve all the powder or crystals. 100 ml could be a workable volume but I don't know how much 5-MeO you have
- Add NaOH (sodium hydroxide which is in some drain cleaners... but I wouldn't recommend using that! Try to order it
somewhere or find a specialty shop. Sometimes it's called lye, it may be available in very common stores for some
purpose. You need to add enough to get the acidity to a pH of 11-12 by adding some and testing some times to see
where you are at. There are pH testing papers you can buy.
- Assuming you don't have a separatory funnel, take a jar that is high rather than wide. Your water / 5-MeO solution
should only fill half of it or under.
- Add a non-polar solvent like Coleman Fuel to extract. To do that shake the content of the jar but be careful because
the non-polar solvent builds up pressure, so open the jar in between the shaking. Shake very very well.
- Remove the top layer (which is the coleman fuel. It's all transparent but it floats on top, you can see a line between
the layers. Remove it with something like a turkey baster. I don't know a better alternative.
- Repeat these last 2 steps to extract more out of it. Two times is sort of OK. Three times is definitely better. Four times
not really necessary.
- Put the liquid somewhere when it can evaporate completely, leaving you with freebase 5-MeO. Do not apply heat with
a direct flame because it will catch on fire! Letting air fan over it speeds up the process.
 
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Try smoking it and see what happens. I had a well known vendor a long time ago that told me i got DMT HCl, but was really freebase.
 
^well you can check to see if it's the freebase or the salt by checking the melting point. The whole reason in using the freebase is that it has a lower melting/vaporization point. Some compounds as a salt need enough energy to vaporize as the do to decompose.
 
barera said:
is lye a solution or solid you mix in?
Click to expand...

Saturated solution, be careful not to get the ph too high or it becomes less soluble in your solvent.

edit: no way to tell by color or consistency.
 
psilocybonaut said:
Try smoking it and see what happens. I had a well known vendor a long time ago that told me i got DMT HCl, but was really freebase.
Click to expand...

Have to disagree with you there. He never stated how much he had and if he just tried smoking it and it wasnt freebase then he might as well of just threw it away.

If you wish to smoke it then converting it back to a base shouldnt be THAT hard. If that is what you choose to do please let us know how it turned out :)
 
can pure costic soda that you mix up be used or does it have to be lye?? Is the lye just for changing the ph of the water or has it got it got other purposes? And what should the appearance of final freebase product be? i plan on trying this. gona start with 100mg and see if it works?
 
I believe both the term costic soda and lye refer to sodium hydroxide. So yes you can use costic soda. As for the appearance of the final freebase I'm not so sure. What does it currently look like?
 
barera said:
can pure costic soda that you mix up be used or does it have to be lye?? Is the lye just for changing the ph of the water or has it got it got other purposes? And what should the appearance of final freebase product be? i plan on trying this. gona start with 100mg and see if it works?
Click to expand...


Caustic soda is lye is NaOH, all the same thing lol. No, the only purpose is to except that extra proton your 5-MeO-DMT has stuck to it. You should be able to use sodium bicarbonate too. I've used it for DPT so should work for your purposes also. It should be a crystalline white solid.
 
I don't think you can determine if you have the salt of freebase just by looking at it.
By the way my 5-MeO-DMT freebase or orange-y, it comes from a place where they have the annoying habit of giving out things with all sorts of colors even though the material should be white.

I also don't think the OP would ask about explaining how to do an extraction if he has a way to check the melting point. Or perhaps with some luck there is an electric vaporizer device available. If so, the salt may just be smoked but it is not ideal. The melting point can also be determined with it, sure. Also, with such quality vaporizers you should always watch out with melting freebases that ruin the device by dripping into it as a hot liquid.

What are you planning on trying? If you mean a salting prodecure similar to or exactly like the one I described just use something like 100 mg and try, yes. No point in ruining everything but it's a shame and hassle to do with with only a few crumbs of material.
If you plan on trying to just smoke the salt... don't use 100 mg! That should be completely obvious! Almost sure I am underestimating you by that but better safe than very very sorry so just throwing that out there.
 
Solipsis said:
I don't think you can determine if you have the salt of freebase just by looking at it.
By the way my 5-MeO-DMT freebase or orange-y, it comes from a place where they have the annoying habit of giving out things with all sorts of colors even though the material should be white.

I also don't think the OP would ask about explaining how to do an extraction if he has a way to check the melting point. Or perhaps with some luck there is an electric vaporizer device available. If so, the salt may just be smoked but it is not ideal. The melting point can also be determined with it, sure. Also, with such quality vaporizers you should always watch out with melting freebases that ruin the device by dripping into it as a hot liquid.

What are you planning on trying? If you mean a salting prodecure similar to or exactly like the one I described just use something like 100 mg and try, yes. No point in ruining everything but it's a shame and hassle to do with with only a few crumbs of material.
If you plan on trying to just smoke the salt... don't use 100 mg! That should be completely obvious! Almost sure I am underestimating you by that but better safe than very very sorry so just throwing that out there.
Click to expand...

Well it's not hard to ghetto rig something up. You can take the melting point with any surface you can gradually raise the heat of and measure at a slow sturdy rate. Won't be the most accurate but will give you a rough idea. I've seen people use a infrared temp gun, pan, small test tube, oil, and plate. I usually use my hotplate, an oil bath, a thermometer, and a capillary. Yeah I've gotten the discolored stuff too. A/B and recrystallization and it's white, people can be lazy.
 
Care to explain how you use that capillary? :) I wonder how you get material in and not let oil get to it. Just a minor detail I guess but just wondering.

I still think you assume too much equipment although I am not sure how expensive an infrared temp gun is. Ghetto acid/base is a pain in the ass and I was relieved to get my first separatory funnel for extraction, but you can still do it with extremely cheap and well-available stuff. A proper thermometer itself is an investment, it needs to go above ambient temperatures. With that money I'd consider a funnel instead.

I have a better idea. The freebase melts at 75C (158F), the HCl melts at 145C (293F) so the boiling point of water is well inbetween.
So forget the thermometer, just get some water to the boiling point and get something like a test-tube holding some of your product and hold it in there. I don't have to tell you to use some ovenmits, you don't want to get burned... if it's the HCl it will not melt, if it's the freebase it will.

Takes very little time and effort. If it's sold as the HCl then I wouldn't think about buying stuff to test if that's not actually a lie if you don't have to. Check it the easy way and do the acid-base conversion. Consider getting a funnel if you plan to mess with shit in the future, but I hear they are not always as easy to get and insanely expensive new. In my country I found a second-hand lab equip vendor. If it's for one time only just use a turkey baster.

Fractal fountain, I mentioned the melting point of the 5-MeO-DMT HCl salt but you probably should go above the boiling point. I imagine it's a good bit higher than the melting point for the salt and you should expect pyrolysis and therefore harsh smoke. I am assuming here, because salts are generally much more heat-stable than their freebase counterparts. Which is the reason you can't smoke many drugs in salt form that easily because a good portion of it burns (again: not good for the lungs or 'potency'). But it's not always impossible or so inefficient you should forget it immediately... IIRC the salt of DPT is actually quite smokable, check the Big & Dandy DPT thread and search for salt?

Like I already said about devices like the vulcano: beware of messing up your machine with inefficient vaporization i.e. melting a freebase but not boiling it soon after, yielding a liquid. Pyrolysis products (tarry shit) should be okay to clean out of your vulcano I imagine, though still not a joy for life.
 
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Solipsis said:
Care to explain how you use that capillary? :) I wonder how you get material in and not let oil get to it. Just a minor detail I guess but just wondering.

I still think you assume too much equipment although I am not sure how expensive an infrared temp gun is. Ghetto acid/base is a pain in the ass and I was relieved to get my first separatory funnel for extraction, but you can still do it with extremely cheap and well-available stuff. A proper thermometer itself is an investment, it needs to go above ambient temperatures. With that money I'd consider a funnel instead.

I have a better idea. The freebase melts at 75C (158F), the HCl melts at 145C (293F) so the boiling point of water is well inbetween.
So forget the thermometer, just get some water to the boiling point and get something like a test-tube holding some of your product and hold it in there. I don't have to tell you to use some ovenmits, you don't want to get burned... if it's the HCl it will not melt, if it's the freebase it will.

Takes very little time and effort. If it's sold as the HCl then I wouldn't think about buying stuff to test if that's not actually a lie if you don't have to. Check it the easy way and do the acid-base conversion. Consider getting a funnel if you plan to mess with shit in the future, but I hear they are not always as easy to get and insanely expensive new. In my country I found a second-hand lab equip vendor. If it's for one time only just use a turkey baster.

Fractal fountain, I mentioned the melting point of the 5-MeO-DMT HCl salt but you probably should go above the boiling point. I imagine it's a good bit higher than the melting point for the salt and you should expect pyrolysis and therefore harsh smoke. I am assuming here, because salts are generally much more heat-stable than their freebase counterparts. Which is the reason you can't smoke many drugs in salt form that easily because a good portion of it burns (again: not good for the lungs or 'potency'). But it's not always impossible or so inefficient you should forget it immediately... IIRC the salt of DPT is actually quite smokable, check the Big & Dandy DPT thread and search for salt?

Like I already said about devices like the vulcano: beware of messing up your machine with inefficient vaporization i.e. melting a freebase but not boiling it soon after, yielding a liquid. Pyrolysis products (tarry shit) should be okay to clean out of your vulcano I imagine, though still not a joy for life.
Click to expand...

Well the capillaries used to check MPs are sealed on one side;) Have to be otherwise they'd just drip your sample all over the melting point apparatus. You tap the open end on your sample then tap it to the bottom, get the temp of the oil where you want it to start and submerge it. I just snag them from my OC lab lol Works fairly well, things read as they should at least.

Temp guns range from $20-400 but I never use them. Had one and I kept having to recalibrate it, better to just stick with the mercury. Yeah water would work perfectly for this to see which it is. Can also check the solubility in water, really should have thought of that to begin with lmao=D I remember having use bags to separate phases not fun at all. The glassware is definitely worth it, can be had cheap if you talk to the right people. Just got to cut out the middle man and go to the blowers. They'll usually sell you whatever you want.
 
Oh yeah lol, so if you use a capillary in boiling water and it leaks don't worry. If your 5-MeO doesn't float on it like a drop or puddle you just dissolved your salt.

I know about the MP capillaries, used them in the lab as well but it was years ago and so much has happened it feels like another life. A turbulent tripping life-style can do that to you. Or I fucked my memory with ketamine, who knows really.

Oh the glass blowers I thought they charged you a freaking kidney for glassware. Hm perhaps that is just for those complex specialty parts. I guess you're right about talking to the right people, that can get you anything done. Bit of a truism there though. :)

Wow sorry, really became critical in general. I'd better stop with the bile.
 
What ever happened to good ol' cheap litmus paper? If it is at or over the PH(max) for the substance, then it is freebase. If it is lower than it is a salt.
 
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