Hey guys, been a bit busy with the family, went outside today, noticed that my Master Kush I planted outdoors is growing healthy, but , within the last 2 days, something odd happened, the leaves are VERY yellow, but only on the newest growth (two leaves) and it's entire new leaf that is yellow. None of the lower leaves have problems.
Sorry I couldn't get pictures of it tonight, been trying to play catch up ever since my medical insurance stopped paying for my meds, been a pain in the ass. But anywho, sorry I haven't got everything in here together and organized yet, I will try to have it soon. (might just go outdoors and take a pic with a flash light, idk, the plant is looking pretty sickly, hopefully I can fix it before it gets worse. Im guessing Ill just need to feed it once more while its potted, then put it in the ground and it should be fine. (3 gal pot, had the plant inside about a month ago, it was growing to quickly [I believe it was more sativa than I was looking for, lol], anyways, dug a hole, put the pot in the ground so it wouldn't attract heat and cook the roots.
Anyways, Just want to thank everyone for their support and help in the forum.
-Edit-
Also, I just saw the upper picture, but, some of my plants have been experiencing the same problem, they start to yellow and the stems go purple(feeding with seaweed kelp/flora nova and on occasion micro nutrients), I figured it was from the gnats, but, I really dont see them around anymore, though I will say I the spider mites might have something to do with that, though they are not making webs, or anything, they don't stop coming back, I think I need an indoor spray that will kill both eggs and mites, seems every time I spray, they go away for a day , maybe 2, and then they come back, I could spray every day,( and have tried) but they sure seem to like coming back and being a real pain in the ass)
Edit; See below after the end of this post replying to you for an edit after recieving your PM after making the post.
Prelude maybe you missed my post because the new Mega thread was created or you just didn't see it for whatever reason, but we need to come to some sort of arrangement for this FAQ.
Originally when I asked if we could have one (or suggested it would be good to have one, rather) I had in mind that if the mods would agree to it in principle, regardless of whether it would end up as a sticky or post that be closed so that I and others can link to it to save having to respond to the most FAQs, I would collect and condense my posts into one succint and to the point document.
However now I have started it and have instead been writing it as an original document (all in my own words and not plagiarised from anywhere on the net, unless there are cases where it would be essential and I would indicate so with a reference). I will give references to sources of information where possible so that the document will be as credible as possible (and if possible, these refs will not link to wikipedia).
Anyway, to the main point of this post. So I assumed, that we were all of the understanding that I would be doing the document myself, but you said before that you are collecting posts to make a FAQ-type document/post yourself. Is this right? If this is so, we need to come to some sort of gentleman's agreement or understanding so that we're not both pointlessly doing the same thing.
I would suggest that because you obviously want to participate in the making of it, perhaps I could do the original and then send it to you via PM (and cc Chainer) and then you could, in red coloured font, add in comments on points to add or point out spelling, grammar and punctuation errors as well as the more useful and arduous task of fact checking the document and suggesting corrections of any unintentional misinformation?
You've been very pleasant and kind to me Prelude, and I don't mean any ill feeling towards you in any way by this, but this is something that needs to be sorted before I potentially end up personally wasting a lot of my free time.
Chainer, if you have any thouts on the issue, feel free to chime in, or anyone else, if you would like to say anything on the matter please feel free to do so.
edit: In addition to what I suggested you help with above, if you could also help me to find really high quality images to illustrate points I'm trying to make, that would really help (users will take far more notice of the FAQ and appreciate it more if it is enriched with good quality photos that demonstrate a principle, technique etc, for example on how to take a clone). That way you could contribute and do a job just as important as the writing of the FAQ itself initially in the first place and we could both fairly take credit for the work . In blue font, I will insert a comment in the FAQ draft just for you, Prelude, saying I want a picture here of xyz. So if I'm talking about making Bubble/ice hash, in blue font I will say, 'Prelude, I need a photo of the Bubblebags, the Ice-o-later and a photo of the resulting ice hash and maybe some other photos'. You can then save the photos to a folder and then send the via email to an address I'll send to you via PM, and after resizing to a convenient size, I will insert them into the FAQ. Is this okay?
Basically I'd like to be responsible for actually be writing it, but if you could help with everything else outlined above, that would work really well. It would also be transparent to everyone since everyone will have read this post and seen the agreement.
...................
Anyway Prelude, as for the spidermites (nicknaed the 'Borg') if you're less than 12 weeks from harvest, use an organic (must be certified organic because non-organic versions involve the use of toxic solvents) neem oil. The next day, or the day after that after having used neem, spray the plant off to wash off the neem residue and because the mites don't like the water.
If that doesn't work, use a fatty acid type spray that is like a type of soapy spray you can buy. Google
'Savona' to see the sort of product I'm talking about. It might even be available in the US.
*UPDATE*
Ok here we go. Lets recap. Some leaves started yellowing, fed them, they remained yellow and some leaves died off. We fed even more and some leaves have started turning green again while a couple others are dying.
*INFO*
Out of 10 plants... there are 3 which have yellow leaves. Out of the 3 plants with yellow leaves about 3-5 bottom leaves are yellow.
*QUESTIONS*
What are the deficiencies? How do I tell if its a deficiency or feeding time? If it is a different type of deficiency, how will I know when to feed?
*Pictures*
Picture GROUP 1 shows yellowing and dying leaves.
Picture GROUP 2 shows some yellowing leaves turning green.
Picture GROUP 3 shows some other deficiencies (which are only on a few leaves)
Picture GROUP 4 are healthy, sexy plants.
GROUP 1.
GROUP 2.
GROUP 3.
GROUP 4.
Before I respond, could you resize your images in future (just a tip to make it easier for people like me to see the images on the screen) to a width of 730 and a height of 548? You can download
IrfanView, which can be used to resize images by clicking on 'image' on the toolbar and then 'resize'. Once you've input the width, it automatically fills in the height for you.
Okay, firstly I want to say that it's good that you want to know what the difference (in appearance of the affected plants) is between different nutrient deficiencies. I would buy a book with high res clear photos of all the different deficiencies, as well as pest and disease photos to help you make the ID.
However, a big issue with beginners like yourself, is that they possibly go onto some of the american boards and ask what the deficiency is, or they try and identify the deficiency problem themself, based on unclear guides on the internet with photos that are either too low a res or aren't clear enough (or only show one example on one plant when a variety of different strains all suffering from the particular issue would be better). So, they get told for example that they have a magnesium deficiency or a potassium deficiency when this is not the case. Instead of upping their feed, they start using epsom salts (magnesium source) or a high potash (potassium source) to treat the perceived former and latter problem they think they have. Because that wasn't the problem, they've made the problem more complicated and it leads on to other problems. Eventually it spirals out of control and they end up either having a crappy harvest or just giving up etc. as an example of common scenarios.
If the feed you are using is a good feed, for almost all cannabis plants you will be able to use the feed without needing to supplement with anything else to treat a magnesium deficiency for example.
Essentially a good feed contains everything the plant requires. So, the main point I want to make is that if you are using a good feed, if you start to see yellowing of some sort, particularly if the feed dose is low, then instead of trying to identify the specific deficiency, you just need to up the nutrient dose. That's all.
Conversely, if you see burnt tips on the plant, it is a sign that you are using too high a dose and you need to back off. If you find that you're using an adequate dose (or even a dose that's slightly too high) but you still get Mg deficiencies consistently with many of your plants, then throw the feed away in the trash and get a better feed.
Another criticis of new growers that leads to issues like you may be experiencing is that they can be drawn into the hype, and instead of using just the bare essentials in a soil grow (a 'grow' nutrient and a 'bloom' nutrient), they use one or more other 'ancillary' products that they think will hopefully boost growth. This is a mistake, because they are beginners and have not had the experience of growing. Because they don't know if they are able to grow a plant with just the feed on it's own (because they've never done so before succesfully, if at all), it becomes difficult to determine whether they are doing something wrong, or if it's caused by them over complicating the grow and adding the ancillary product and causing lockout issues for example, which can cause nute deficiencies despite adding enough feed. So you need to do a grow with just the nutrient before using these fancy products. If you're just using the grow or bloom nutrient, then it takes so many variables out of the equation and makes diagnosing problems
so much easier!
A misconception is that these nicely packaged, marketed and sold well, beginners assume it must help them yield more. But more often than not, the growers use these products and end up making things complicated and yield less than if they'd just stuck with the basics in the first place! It's not these supplements or whatever you want to call them that will increase your yield - it's for the most part these:
1. The plant strain and phenotype of that strain.
2. The skill of the grower.
3. Efficient growing (see 2.).
4. A lack of problems along the grow, such as wilting, overfertilization, underfertilization, hermies or males seeding the feales (again, see 2.).
The boosters and other similar products are only to be used for people with experience who know how they work, and it's better to stick
one manufacturer, since the companies/manufacturers will design their whole product range to work together, not with products made by other manufacturers. So don't use a grow and bloom feed made by manufacturer x and a booster made by manufacturer y, until you know what you're doing and have at least several grows under your belt.
I can say that if you have 10 clones all from the same mother and they are all grown in an identical environment (and one plant doesn't get a lot more light than another, for example) and the are planted with the same medium in the same sized pots, then their nutrient requirements should really be the same, and you could usually just use the same dose for each plant without any issues. This is hypothetical situation though, and differences in the environment for each clone and other factors can affect nutrient requirements (like particularly the amount of feed it needs).
If the 10 clones are from different plants, or even the same strain, but different plants (aka different phenotypes), then regardless of the environment or other factors, it's even more likely than the situation above with 10 clones of the same plant for each plant to have a different nutrient requirement.
So, to sum up, providing the feed you're using is good and the leaf yellowing is not restricted to just a couple of leaves on the plant (which is not necessarily an indication of a deficiency, since healthy well fed plants can have the odd yellow leaf), just up the dose at each feeding time. The type of defiency is not important, as long as it's ID'd as a deficiency and the feed is a good one.
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