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What to do with burnt meth in pipe ? (HELP)

Because a brand new pipe to be honest smokes fucking appealing they need to be worn in. And using hot water to clean them makes them like new again and your stuck again with a pipe that smokes shit house they needa be worn in. And that's a straight up fact.
It's a fact? Never heard that one before.

My (admittedly not extensive) experience is that a new pipe smokes just great, definitely not appalling (which I think you meant not 'appealing'?)

What happens to the 'worn in' pipe that makes it better?
 
Fo

Lol finding its way inside the pipe? They smoke fuck loads better if your burn the inside out. Because a brand new pipe to be honest smokes fucking appealing they need to be worn in. And using hot water to clean them makes them like new again and your stuck again with a pipe that smokes shit house they needa be worn in. And that's a straight up fact. Water is all that's needed to clean them.no complex method or using all these products.. no j
o no no. Just water. You'll thank me. Believe that
Since glass is non-porous, what gets worn in? Are you saying that the gunky residue makes a pipe smoke better?
 
No way I clean a pipe out before it burns black to the glass. Just trust me use water only to clean them and they will smoke better I'm unsure how this works but it's no joke and I swear by this. They just don't smoke beautifully brand new. And I meant appalling not appealing.
 
Pretty sure Borosilicate glass is porous. Somthing to do with sillica and boron trioxide being ts main constituents.
 
Pretty sure Borosilicate glass is porous. Somthing to do with sillica and boron trioxide being ts main constituents.
Pretty sure it's not.

Borosilicate Glass is actually known for its Non-porosity and chemically resistant surface.

You're actually thinking of special porous glass that uses borosilicate glass doped with either sodium potassium or lithium.

That's not the kind of glass that's used in laboratory glassware, Pyrex, heat sensitive applications like smoking, meth or crack.
 
Nope it's borosilicate. Do a bita' research I think you will find borosilicate is what it's actually called and it's good for its ability to with stand temperature changes and not crack ect easier. borosilicate is pyrex.
 
Did i already suggest the freezer trick put it in the freezer for longer than 10 minutes and then blow the content out to the bottom of the bowl,
then cotton tip it out boil it, you can bleach it, boil it again.

Nr xx
 
Nope it's borosilicate. Do a bita' research I think you will find borosilicate is what it's actually called and it's good for its ability to with stand temperature changes and not crack ect easier. borosilicate is pyrex

The boro silicate glass referred to as the trade name Pyrex and also used in laboratory glassware is not porous.

There is a boron doped silicate glass that is completely different from laboratory glassware or Pyrex that is porous.

"It is also non-porous and Hypo-allergenic."


If it was porous, it would retain chemicals and laboratory glassware would suffer explosive events from reaction of chemicals inside the voids in the glass.

This doesn't happen, specifically because borosilicate glassware is non-porous.
 
Nope it's borosilicate. Do a bita' research I think you will find borosilicate is what it's actually called and it's good for its ability to with stand temperature changes and not crack ect easier. borosilicate is pyrex.
I think you need to go back and do your research because Pyrex and all laboratory quality borosilicate glass is non- porous that's why they use it as laboratory glassware.
 
apologies for bringing this back from the dead but i think this may be of use to enough people to warrant it. the person repeatedly posting about water being the solution is actually right, water is the most effective liquid for cleaning them, but there’s been a crucial part left out - you can get water about 40 degrees hotter than most of the solvents traditionally used to clean glassware (i used to use isopropanol which boils at 180 - water boils at 220). that 40 degrees is enough to make a huge difference in how effective the liquid alone is at removing stains / gunk / gak / and assorted undesireable remnants of drugstuffs. previously i put boiling isopropanol in there with a bit of salt and went at it with a q-tip. the first time i used boiling water, i poured the water in and placed it in a cup in a position so the water stayed in the bowl - went to get the salt and q tips - came back and noticed everything had already come off by itself. in about 2 minutes. without agitating it. occasionally there will be a stubborn stain and i’ll use a q tip after the water to polish it out. since seeing the light i have tried isopropanol again just out of curiosity and nope, water way more effective.

in the past i’ve also tried acetone, regular ethanol, ethyl acetate, lye-water, windex, goo-gone (which is mostly petroleum distillates), and dmso. of all those, the lye-water was by far the most effective but i just don’t like handling lye and the idea of it even being in the thing at all. dmso was also more effective than any of the other solvents (which i found unexpected and odd) but no matter how much i rinsed it i couldn’t get that taste out (and if you know that taste you know that pipe is going in the trash).

anyway give boiling water a shot next time. let it sit in the bowl for a couple minutes, shake, empty. hope it works for y’all.
 
Personally, warm water and a cotton bud. For stubborn stains, I make a paste of baking soda and water, use the cotton bud to “scrub” until marks are gone. You CAN use a cream cleanser like Ajax, but I prefer the baking soda paste - easier to rinse.
 
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