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Learning to surf...

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Bluelight Crew
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Sep 19, 2006
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Having traveled to the West coast, I'm now interested in surfing. Is it necessary to take a class, or can I just do some research, buy a board, and go looking for some little waves to start?

What sort of information do you need to know before you start surfing? I'm athletic, in shape, and I can snowboard (if that matters), so I'm thinking I might just save my money and give it a shot. I've been watching the technique in videos, etc... and it doesn't look that difficult.

Any info would be awesome!
 
It's like snowboarding. You can figure it out on your own, but it'll take a 1/3 of the time if you take a class. Plus you (hopefully) won't develop as many bad habits.

It is super tough to get the hang of getting up on your board, but once you have that down it's not too tough.
 
^can you provide some examples of bad habits? I taught myself to snowboard. Besides not being able to land certain tricks, I can't think of anything wrong with my form.
 
^ that's near impossible to answer without seeing you ride but typical things would include where pressure is being applied at all stages of the turn and why, where the center of mass is through the turn and why, 'reference alignments' appropriate to terrain and task, appropriate use of different unweighting, appropriate use of crossover/under, etc.

it's entirely possible to teach oneself to snowboard and have excellent ('by the book') form but i'd say that would be the exception rather than the rule.

i've never surfed so this is all aside...

alasdair
 
I agree with alasdairm-- I'm still trying to unlearn the stupid crap I picked up before taking a lesson.
 
If you have no surf experience then I would definitely recommend at least one lesson. The basics of snapping up onto your board without dragging your feet usually comes down to practice but sometimes it takes someone showing you when to paddle to get you onto the right wave. Finding a nice spot that you don't have to paddle back out each time is also helpful. A lack of surfing fitness can mean you spend more time trying to get out than you do trying to stand up. Often these sort of breaks have first dibs by surf schools and you are then forced to learn on a less than ideal location, while struggling with more experience surfers who don't tolerate grommets who don't know the rules.
 
If you have no surf experience then I would definitely recommend at least one lesson. The basics of snapping up onto your board without dragging your feet usually comes down to practice but sometimes it takes someone showing you when to paddle to get you onto the right wave.

Yeah, I found catching the wave at the right moment and with enough momentum to be the most difficult part.

S&G ->
 
i surf all the time. used to live in hawaii. Anyways...i learned both snowboarding and surfing with no lessons. The thing is you gota be able to take your ass being whooped the first 10 times or more with surfing. Dont get let down the first time you go out dont get up, and your sore as fuck. It puts a bad taste in newbies mouths and they dont want to try again because they felt really distraught after being pummeld by wave after wave. Start small, get comfy paddling, then try stading up. Have fun. Also when you see a wave coming that you might wanna catch star paddling long before the waves gets to you. Also you will probably want to start with white water waves.(waves that already crashed)
 
Most things, you can teach yourself. This might help:

Practice standing up. On the board, without a wave, in the water, you should be able to put your hands on the rails and get to your feet for a few seconds. Your back foot should be near the tail, maybe a foot from the end, and your front foot should be just ahead of the middle of the board, assuming you're on a shortboard, which you probably are.

When you stand on the board, do not straighten ("lock") your knees. You lose control of the board this way. Keep them loose. Your upper body should impress a drill sergeant: chest up, back straight, etc, but not necessarily upright.

Pay attention to your line-up. Look at things on the beach and remember how they look. Use this to determine where you are and how far you are from the beach. The waves will break in a certain place depending on how the bottom of the ocean is shaped. This means that they will, mostly, break in a certain place, and if you know where you are, you can get to that place. It's a good place to be. There's nothing stupider than the guy who just sits where the crowd is; there's nothing more hilarious than watching a crowd of people who don't know how to line up drift back and forth like zombie ants.

The wind changes the wave. If the wind is blowing onshore, it pushes the wave to break earlier, and so a wave that seems to be only barely cresting may break. It may also show a 'white-cap' -- the appearance of a breaking wave, without the power. If you see a lot of whitecaps, it's probably too windy to surf; go out earlier in the morning. Conversely, if the wind is blowing offshore, the wave will rear up to what seems to be an impossibly precarious height before it breaks, usually unleashing a shower of spray behind it as it goes. These are the waves that get featured in magazine covers and movies. Offshore wind, as long as it isn't blowing way too hard, is good.

Waves come in sets. I'm not sure why. A few big waves will come, all in the span of a few minutes, and then there'll be a lull, where, if anything, small, infrequent waves will show up. Don't try to catch between-set waves. You'll get stuck inside and hit by the large ones.

Show respect for the other people in the water. Learn surf etiquette. Everyone wants to catch a wave. Priority is determined by the person who is highest on the shoulder: that is, if the wave breaks from north to south, the northernmost rider, if he can catch the wave, has priority. Never touch anyone's leash, for any reason, unless you like getting the shit beat out of you. Which reminds me...

Wear a leash. Your board costs several hundred dollars. You do not want to lose it. You cannot hang on to it in a fall. The wave weighs thirty thousand pounds. You weigh 200. The leash will also pull you to the surface of the water when you bail.

When you are paddling out, there are three ways to deal with an oncoming wave. First, you can just hit it. This is what most newbies do, because it seems obvious. It also fucking blows if the wave is bigger than four feet, or if there are a lot of them. Second, you can go underwater -- turtling. Either you ditch your board and swim down (and forward), or you roll over -- board and rider -- and hold onto your board from the underside; the second option is recommended. You probably want to practice holding your breath. Third, you can duck-dive. Paddle at the wave. About seven feet before it hits you, put your hands on the rails of the board and push down as hard as you can so the nose of the board drops underwater. Immediately before the wave hits you, let go as quickly as you can to fall into the water, under the wave, onto the board. This mitigates being hit by a wave to an amazing degree.

Source: grew up in Florida, surfed since I was four, moved to Atlanta and now my life is an endless torrent of waveless despair; so it goes.
 
Thanks atara - really useful information there!

I've had a few lessons and recommend them for at least the basics.. plus surf instructors are good at figuring out the best spot for learners, taking into account the day's conditions and whatnot.
 
Dont go out a buy a brand new board that is 6'0", with the best fins and all the right labels/logos, just because Kelly Slater rides one.

I found when I first started and was using a mates board, it helped get my confidence before purchasing a smaller board.

Nowadays, I wish I could go back to riding a Mini-Mal sometimes

I find with my surfing, it is a massive confidence thing as well as fitness.

If i can get out consistantly every weekend (depending on what else I have on and if there are any waves locally) Its just becomes 2nd nature...

If I dont go out for about a month (like i'm at now) I will go out and it will take me about 15-20 mins to get into the swing of things, finding the right spot, knowing when to pop-up whatever.

Good luck man, I love it... nothing beats sitting out on your board early morning, relaxing, listening to the waves crash in...
 
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