Step 0: If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible
Note:Household blenders tend to blend bark to fibres rather than powders bark so the the consistency may be different than the descriptions in the tek.
Step 1: Prepare your supplies
Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.
Your container, 1000ml per 100g of MHRB would be a good general number, since this is a STIRRING tek instead of a SHAKING tek there can be spashing if the container is too small
Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.
Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.
Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts #1, #2, #3) HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.
Acidification:
This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary
Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"
Step 1: Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 30g-50g is recommended)
Step 2: Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.
Step 3: Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes, add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (It will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)
Step 4: Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though) YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
Note 2: If you were to choose not the acidification step, thus doing a STB lime tek, it would work... but would take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest
The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.
Basification:
This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary
MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!
Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB)
(More lime will not hurt.)
Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want.
(For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)
Step 2: Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.
Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.
Step 3: Create the right consistency.
The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent than Consistency 2.
There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.
Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy!
Step 3a: if it is too dry add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout
Step 3b: if it is too wet add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency
Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly.
You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.
Non-polar Wash:
Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted
Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.
The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in SWIM's experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours however it will likely yield 25%-60%.
2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In SWIM's experience).
Pulls after that tend to be rather small but SWIM highly recommends doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.
Step 1: Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g)
This can be done immediately following the addition of the lime or anywhere up to several days later.
Note 2: Bark will slowly absorb a noticeable portion of the solvent, this is common.
Step 2: Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mush as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.
Mix it well several times over 10-20 minutes. That is all that is needed to dissolve the DMT-freebase in to the solvent. YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
SWIM likes to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.
Step 3: Pour the solvent from the bark into your seal-able and shakable container through a funnel with a cotton ball (to filter bark particles which cause emulsions) You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent. Pouring usually gets 90% or more.
It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls
Step 4a: While the first batch of solvent is being salted you can add new solvent and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.
Step 4b: Wait until you are done the removing the DMT from the solvent then re-use with only the single batch of solvent. (recommended)
Alternative Next-Steps
Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides SWIM's method. There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent.
↓SWIM's method is below↓
Acid wash/Salting:
This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.
Step 1: Pour some vinegar into the container with the solvent. About 1 shot-glass full.
Step 2: Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. SWIM prefers to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. There is sometimes a small bubbly layer of emulsion that take a long time to resolve.
Agitate it and the top layer, the solvent, will start to cloud with DMT-acetate floating around. over a period of at least 2 minutes, for the process to complete. Don't leave it for over 10 minutes because after a while oils and gunk can migrate to the vinegar/water
Step 3: Use a turkey baster to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container.
If you don't get all the vinegar don't worry.
Step 4:Next add a shot or two of hot tap water to the solvent, and agitate it for about a minute.
Step 5: Use a turkey baster again to suck out the water and combine it with the vinegar.
Evaporation:
The "easy way" to do this would be to simply evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smoke-able product, just note that this product will be very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air
The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all the DMT and as long as it is sealed it maintains a consistent concentration making dosing a very simple matter of 4 drops, 7 drops, 11 drops, etc
This step is just to concentrate the alkaloids down to a dense and more-workable product
There are many methods to do this step but SWIM HIGHLY recommends combining several batches of vinegar-saltings into one cause it is makes the house smell very vinegar-y and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times.
SWIM currently used method is simple. Step 1: Filter the vinegar and pour it in a pot.
Step 2: Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 75-100ml
Step 3: Lower the heat to medium and watch it carefully until it is around 20-30ml
Step 4: Use a dropper or baster and move the liquid to a smaller container (like in the picture) and evaporate it down until it looks similar to the picture.
Note: There will likely be some particles in the liquid, I used a cotton ball stuffed in a 5ml dropper to filter the tiny amount of liquid. But you could just leave them, they should just sink to the bottom.
The tincture can vary largely depending on your technique, it can be anywhere from 1-8mg per drop (20mg to 175mg per ml), 4-7 per drop is common after this step. The maximum concentration so that it is still a thin water-like liquid is about 8-9mg per drop.
The more concentrated the tincture, the quicker it is to prepare for smoking, but precision goes down.
IE: if a tincture is 8mg per drop then one can't make a 20mg dose, only 16mg or 24mg while 5mg per drop can make 15mg, 20mg or 25mg. But 3 drops will evaporate faster than 5. SWIM's tinctures are 4-5mg per drop and work very well for speedy evaporation and accurate dosing.
Note: if the result of the evaporations are extremely small or nothing at all (Smaller than match-head of goo after evaporating the vinegar from pulls done >2 hours after adding the lime) then check out Common issues/Troubleshooting because that should not happen.
Freebasing for Smoking:
DMT-acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and because of that when heated to 90C-100C the acetate vaporizes off and leaves freebase DMT, this is the goal of the following. This method can take as little as 30-45 seconds and from experience it is faster and as precise and accurate or more than using an expensive .001g scale to dose by weight
Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!
Basically all that is needed is to evaporate the tincture at 90-100C until there is no vinegar left, this produces freebase jimjam DMT.
There are 2 methods SWIM has successfully used many times
1: Using a spoon with a lighter or candle underneath seems to be the fastest and easiest method.
As much as it might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is very effective and is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.
2: A FLAT glass coaster works in combination with CAREFUL indirect heating from beneath with either a lighter or put on a stove element on MIN. (using this method the end product can be scraped up with a razor)
In each method the process is the same.
The liquid will evaporate with steam, possibly some bubbling and strong smell of vinegar. Once the water is close to gone watch it closely and don't heat constantly, only in bursts until the bubbling stops and/or it looks like all the water is gone.
You just want it to LOOK like a goo, the smell isn't the best indicator because it will continue to smell of vinegar for a minute after freebasing, then it will smell like DMT and often faintly of vinegar.
If you see smoke (not steam) STOP. Don't be too worried because the window of temperature is not that narrow between freebasing and vaporizing, SWIM has NEVER seen smoke or lost a noticeable amount of product in the process.
It can be scraped up using the copper from "the machine" or a tiny bit of rolling paper for smoking it from. Even a finger can be used to collect it and transfer it to the smoking device (Caution: hot!).
Sometimes it is too liquidy immediately after freebasing and need to cool slightly before scraping.
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