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curing moist buds

^ Yeah I myself didn't believe it would even work before I tried it but low and behold it does. Makes sense, too imo. I would try it on a jar just to see if it works side-by-side if you're brave enough lol. edit: by the way, I know the paper bag thing is a bit controversial but I decided to try foregoing the brown paper bags completely and I no matter how hard I tried to discern a difference I just couldn't see any. So I came to the conclusion that for me at least, if the brown paper bags do work, they don't make a big enough difference for me to be able to tell. So from then on I just skipped using them and I haven't looked back. I do cure for about a year so my buds benefit from this long time in the jars. I find 6 months to be the minimum I would want to leave them in there but every strain is different of course. I rotate the jars so I don't have to wait 12 months before I can smoke.

We get days of high humidity here and I just use a dehumidifier (11L capacity I think, not a small one) with a hygrostat set to turn it on at or above 60% RH. Too low and when you dry and cure you'll run into trouble, which is why I don't go below 50%. 99% of the time it's not necessary and as long as it's room temperature indoors where I do my stuff a dehumidifier isn't needed. The colder it gets, the higher the relative humidity and the warmer, the lower the RH which is why as long as the temp is in the right range the RH is usually good where I live.
 
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whats your method of curing buds once they've already been trimmed and bagged but are still a bit moist?

i've been burping it in a glass jar but i'm looking for a better way. I'm thinking maybe something similar to a drying tray/rack in a closet? suggestions?

You can use the damp-dry as mentioned by someone else, you can also use silica packets placed inside a jar with the herb of choice and then just replace the silica packets once the silica crystals turn pink or red. You can microwave silica packets on low which will evaporate the water out of the crystals and allow you to reuse them, they should turn from red or pink to a clearer shade of red/pink or possibly turn white once completely dry.

If the herb gets TOO dry you can add in a few leaves then just check the herb every few days and it should absorb the moisture from the leaves as the leaves dry the moisture goes into the herb. Then remove the dry leaves before they get crumbly, and check herb to see if you should repeat this process.
 
Here's a post from ot1:

Use a kilner or even better one of the french types as in this pic for storage [can see I need to change the rubber seal next time]. This bud was harvested in September and is in perfect condition, opening the jar has filled the whole house with its sweet smell. Apart from a few tricomes there is no broken bud. The jars are completely airtight, no smell will get out of them. After drying and curing, loosely fill the jars and add one or two sunleaves to give the bud back a little pliancy. As long as its kept in a cool dark place the buds kept like this keep really well for 3 years or more.

Slow drying is most important as during this period most of the THC is converted from its non psychoactive acidic form to a stable neutral psychoactive form. To get the fullest amount converted takes 2.5 to 3 weeks, by drying faster than this you can loose over half the potential psychoactivity.

Slow dried buds burn and taste smooth and sweet and aromatic even if totally dry, fast dried buds burn hot and have a very harsh taste, not much can be done with them, raising their humidity may help a little but really they have been ruined.

For connoisseur quality bud always dry slowly in a dark airy place. Have a circulation fan in the room but never blowing directly over the buds. Temperature should be between 50 and 60f and no higher than 65f! RH between 50 and 60% if you can is best.

Personally I remove all leaves immediately on cutting the plant down, ie full manicure while the plant is still turgid and pliant, this way virtually no tricomes come of while trimming. This is the opposite to what sr says, I find it slows drying and seems to make it more even, only my opinion, take it or leave it as it pleases you.

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It's shocking how the most subtle changes can have such a profound effect on the quality of your buds. Something as simple as not allowing your plant grown from seed to reach sexual maturity i.e. not waiting until pre-flowers show, can cut the potency by more than half. Combining this with the effects quick drying and your cannabis could be far weaker than it would otherwise be and unless you make the conscious effort to make these changes you would never know any different.

I don't use any fancy boosters or growth accelerators, I just use the bare essentials but I concentrate on the foundations of the grow such as these factors and it works for me.
 
It's shocking how the most subtle changes can have such a profound effect on the quality of your buds. Something as simple as not allowing your plant grown from seed to reach sexual maturity i.e. not waiting until pre-flowers show, can cut the potency by more than half. Combining this with the effects quick drying and your cannabis could be far weaker than it would otherwise be and unless you make the conscious effort to make these changes you would never know any different.

I don't use any fancy boosters or growth accelerators, I just use the bare essentials but I concentrate on the foundations of the grow such as these factors and it works for me.

looks like you get really good results. when you say not allowing the pre-flowers to show, do you mean waiting until the pre-flowers show to switch to flowering?
 
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