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DMT Extraction Tek....ADDENDUM

phuckingnutz

phuckingnutz

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Mar 11, 2014
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How to get the brown out.

This little tid-bit of information is useful with ALL DMT teks...STB and "heated solvent pulls" in particular.

I'm sure some of you out there have done an extraction of DMT and ended up with reddish brown solvent.

Now, this problem occurs most commonly with STB extractions OR when the NPS is heated prior to pulling it off your bark.

I checked on the nexus and they DO address this problem , but they DON'T have a decent solution to this...The following was pulled from DMT nexus site:


My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ?

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.
Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated here), this issue can be solved by:
1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.
2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :
3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)
All of their solutions to this problem are either time consuming or labor intensive.


SO, if/when you run into this problem just do the following:

Syphon the NPS into a jar with a lid...the jar must be able to hold twice the volume of NPS that you syphon off of your bark...100ml NPS needs 200ml, or larger, jar.

Now, after your NPS is in this jar, add warm water (warm water is used so that no DMT tries to precipitate out early) to fill jar to 3/4 of the way to full. Cap TIGHTLY and shake vigorously and let sit until emulsion is resolved 20-30 minutes usually.

Syphon the, now brown, water from the bottom of your jar and repeat once more if necessary.

Lastly, separate the NPS (NPS will still have a yellow tinge) from the water (water should be clear) and crystalize as per your particular tek....you're done!

I have/do use this method on a regular basis since, after my initial solvent pulls, I heat things up to coax a little more DMT out, but in doing so, other things are coaxed out as well.

If even one person finds this helpful...that'll make my day.

Peace
 
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I found this happened when you re-use naptha. If you use fresh naptha every time it doesn't seem to happen.
 
Ismene said:
I found this happened when you re-use naptha. If you use fresh naptha every time it doesn't seem to happen.
Click to expand...

Never noticed that. The few STB extractions I've done did it, as well as some of my heated pulls.
I only re-use solvent during the course of any ONE extraction. As soon as I start a new batch of bark I get fresh solvent.
 
I guess that would suggest impurities with some minimal but existant polarity. Especially if you have those already in your re-used solvent or if you are just extracting them along, those impurities may bind a fraction that is not SO polar that it won't be pulled along, but it is still opposed enough to the non-polar phase to become suspended. Read up on emulsions and suspensions and you may gain understanding of the working behind things like this, as well as getting a frothing mid-layer when doing any sort of A/B based extraction.
 
Yeah, that's sort of what I had figured...DMT N-Oxide has that ability I believe...that polar Oxygen on it would suggest as much and it obviously also comes across into the NPS during an extraction. So, I feel sure other impurities could have a dual solubility as well.
I generally wash my NPS with water after use to clear it of these hitchhikers.
 
I personally love the hitch-hikers in acacia confusa. I got absolutely no problem with them.
Considering they are in there in equal amount, i almost don't even bother to seperate them as i have noticed a marked difference in psychoactivity by using the total alkaloid extracted vs Pure DMT.
NMT is a known TAAR-1 agonist... and it does produce profoundly interesting effects when vaporized effectively. Immense antiquarian dare i say it almost steam punk dreamscapes and designs all elucidated with an organic quality.
 
Psychonautical said:
I personally love the hitch-hikers in acacia confusa. I got absolutely no problem with them.
Considering they are in there in equal amount, i almost don't even bother to seperate them as i have noticed a marked difference in psychoactivity by using the total alkaloid extracted vs Pure DMT.
NMT is a known TAAR-1 agonist... and it does produce profoundly interesting effects when vaporized effectively. Immense antiquarian dare i say it almost steam punk dreamscapes and designs all elucidated with an organic quality.
Click to expand...

I tend to agree...that's why I smoke the full spectrum and the washed white stuff, I turn into fumarate for injection.

I just put this out there as a general FYI thing because I hadn't seen/read a decent solution this "problem" before.
 
3 things to consider for next time, and 1 fix that worked for me ONCE i found out how awesome heptane actually is(even compared to vm+p naphtha):

if you absolutely have to use Naphtha because your best friends, brothers, dogs, sister told you its the best, then good luck my friend, your product will stay dark and you will learn to like it, mon ami. Naphtha is dirty, period. its only used because its the easiest to get. even d-limonene is better than naphtha.

1)is the MHRB(or other plant matter) your using old?
-i get my product from an apothecary that sells soap making supplies aswell. the product is top notch, and always seems fresh. places in Toronto and most of canada that sell MHRB im barely able to get 1g of product out of 200g(and im a trained chemist), as where the
apothecary supplied stuff gets me about 1G per 100g MHRB. which is acceptable compared to known scientific studies. and always comes out at worst slightly yellow.

2) did you tumble gently/stir as opposed to shake the solution?
-a friend of mine used a paint can shaker with naphtha and 3 months later the crap still hasnt separated.

3) use heptane, dont be cheap, naphtha causes more problems than it solves. Naphtha is very heat specific and pulls way more shit out of the MHRB. as long as your heptane is over 100F, temperature doesn't matter, and heptane does not dissolve the crap making your solution red/brown(my guess is that they are fatty acids from the MHRB)

now if your NPS is an OPAQUE reddish brown. then all you have to do is add 5ml lye extra per 25ml of solvent(scale up or down to match batch size, sub lye for whatever base your using) to the NPS, make sure you already decanted and separated the NPS from the used lye solution. stir GENTLY and let settle for 2 hours, your NPS should be clear(er) and the Lye should be brown. decant and separate. rinse and repeat process as many times needed until solution is translucent.

if your solutuion is translucent, i suggest evaporating the naphtha and using heptane for recryatlization and purification. i then suggest you go to the DMT nexus wiki and read up on how you to safely wash the NPS with sodium carbonate and boil your NPS with activated charcoal to remove the rest of the gunk and color.

even with bad/old product your NPS should not be that dark. something went wrong. next batch try to follow your TEK right down to the last letter. I found a mixture of nomans tek and vovins tek stirred me in the right direction until I perfected my own method(which doesn't involve shaking or stirring :) and thus eliminates this issue with most types of solvents.

Practise makes perfect, dont take short cuts, and dont rush anything, DONT SHAKE, Clean Clean Clean everything, NO TAP WATER(its amazing how many of you take this for granted) and dont use naphtha.
 
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Well, "mon ami", I DO use heptane 90% of the time...If you'll actually READ the post you'll see that naptha was only mentioned in a NEXUS article I pasted in MINE.

No, extra lye gets rid of EMULSIONS not colored NPS.

No tap water....THAT is patent BULLSHIT!

Naptha can strip out some of the OTHER stuff to give a more "full spectrum" feel to the ride.

Smug phucker
 
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Just a guess, I don't think spiceoflife was attempting to be smug at all, merely helpful.
 
Toluene. There is Nothing better.
I am being smug. Once i pulled 50 grams off 2 kilograms in under 12 hours.
In One pull. of NMT//DMT Alkaloid mix.
 
Psychonautical said:
Toluene. There is Nothing better.
I am being smug. Once i pulled 50 grams off 2 kilograms in under 12 hours.
In One pull. of NMT//DMT Alkaloid mix.
Click to expand...

I concur - toluene is excellent for pulls .
Never tried it for freeze precipitation , and use naptha for precipitating .

What else is fumaric acid used for ? Very difficult to find this stuff , unless I buy 50 kg minimum qty ...
 
psychonautical said:
toluene. There is nothing better.
I am being smug. Once i pulled 50 grams off 2 kilograms in under 12 hours.
In one pull. Of nmt//dmt alkaloid mix.
Click to expand...


BULLSHIT!

If you DID get this yield it was from A. confusa and was at least 50-60% NMT, as well as some plant fats which means your DMT is cut by over half...not worth smoking in other words.
A. confusa isn't worth the trouble...I extracted alkaloids from a kilo and got an insanely high yield...but it wasn't worth smoking...IMHO.

If this was MHRB then I say again,

BULLSHIT!

 
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Alrighty, so i so an A/B wash using Acetic Acid.
I used 60 Liters of Water per Kilogram of root bark
And about 12 liters of vinegar.

I use a shit ton of lye.
I don't see what is bullshit about pulling 2.5% worth of alkaloids from 1 kg of Acacia using toluene. Yes it is worth smoking, it is by No means Crystalize Dimethyltryptamine, but it is fucking good.
Worth smoking for sure. It smells amazing.
 
Hi everyone!

Im new here. This is my first post.

I've been using naphtha and freezer prec. With stellar results. White fluffy pure crystals. Like snow. I make sure not to include any thing but the solvent, if any amount of color gets in the pipette or transfer jar...i move the solvent to a clean jar. Also i have gotten the red/brown solvent but only a few times. What i noticed is that it just got too hot. If the naphtha over heats (exact temp idk, but ive learned to just warm it up to maybe 80/90f. I toss the brown solvent...no good.

I have a question.

If i use n-heptane, can i freeze that for a pull? Or does it need to evaporate?

Same question for the use of toluene?

Thanks so much for your wisdoms. I appreciate you.

Lead Alchemist
 
Strain through activated charcoal to take out some of the reddish color or take out left over plant fats. My only idea. You can make a nice light reddish/yellowish crystal DMT from heated naphtha pulls that have soaked for longer then usual. This can be freeze precipitated and the left over naphtha can then be separated and evaporated and then mixed into the white DMT at a ratio of your choosing. I have made freeze precipitated DMT that definitely had small amounts of NMT in it and the large well formed crystals had a light reddish and yellowish tint. Some of the best results I got used the extended soaking and heating periods in the NP solution using NAPTHA.
 
It's funny...there was a dude who put up a video of the extraction process on YT, using MHB, and it was spot on. It was a start to finish video, and I actually made an audio recording of it because it looked so thorough. I was like, "Damn...this dude is showing LOTS of stuff he should not be putting on YT". Suffice it to say, it was removed within 48 hours of my finding it. I will say that it was a perfect TEK, and worked like a charm. On my first try, I produced a gram+ of perfect, snowy white D. It still sits there, mocking me, because in fucking around with it I have to say I am a little intimidated by it and I ain't knew to the show. At all. Anyway, it is far easier to extract than many think.
 
shadow self, id love to hear this audio if there is a way to share it....great story, thanks.

Prescottdave, i love the charcoal idea...ive been experimenting with longer times, temps, evap, freezer, recrystallization...

So far my favorite is just the freezer...most versatile product for a variety of uses...and i don't mind the longer soak times with a yellow color to it...ill try incorporating the reddish...untik now ive rejected that color

Thanks everyone

Also seeking tek for extraction of MEO...except for the river toad and virola i cant find any for yopo or chaliponga
 
It is actually not straining through activated charcoal but adding a pinch or two and then straining apposed to using more then a few pinches. A tek is discussed on the nexus to reduce reddish colors this way. Recrystlization is the way to go if you want to clean up your DMT.
 
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