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Harm Reduction type of modded vaporizer pipe

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Hi again W01fg4ng,

..."drag". It's worth exploring diffusion types...

Yes, drag sounds right, but nah: this only adds more length to my cannabic path which is full-featured already. No glass to break as a bonus, not to mention the excessive pulse stretching...

So my challenge these days apears to reside elsewhere, in finding an optimized sweet-spot configuration relatively to local-market butane lighters (...), among a few other items.

;)

Once "Plan-B" can no longer benefit from further revisions i'll most probably need/want to rejuvenate the LavaDisc idea, considering i could get my hands on a Curie-effect IH cooking pan many months ago, to evaluate (butane-less) superheated steam compared to VG's clean butane burning as the release/transport agent. Too bad i got no laser cutter to make LavaWand UFO Elements out of it! So i'll have to go with a simple LavaDisc test instead, glass or metal, to complement my IH pan and create a vaporizer offering inlet auto-conditioning as an option. Etc. Which all remains hypothetical at the moment.

I turned my health stone into a device very similar...

That would be most welcome if you could illustrate such alternative structures for me and the reader, i've been curious about Health Stones for a long while though i never managed to get a clerk to show me one in any local store i visited. Actually i've asked around for replacement SiC pucks too at some point but then i ended up buying more VG Classic pipes... Maybe the offer will improve some day, though i'm nearly done with the customization process.

Honestly, i began to think i must start collecting impressions soon so i can post a review as conclusion in 2015.

...with just one Disc... ...using FLOWER not oil.

My metal disc was a bit of a concern until i gained confidence in making sure there would be sufficient SiC material between it and any flame, to tame down radiative heat: i mean past 4 mm in thickness the SiC Front Puck becomes "opaque" to light... Which translates in lesser exposure of such metal disc to high temperatures, i believe. It would have been nice to avoid the need for a Top-of-Bowl SiC puck but quite frankly none of my single-puck attempts seemed to suggest i might get satisfied with that, because of concentric/uneven heating in my cannabic bowl.

Relatively to the distinction between flower vs oil that doesn't feel much challenging as i do flowers routinely and although i'm no oil user i do vape sticky screens with little effort as well. IMO it's only a matter of appropriate screen cell-size selection, making sure it's not totally blocking airflow of course. Other than that the operator chooses what heat amount enters the hybrid core according to an expected range of temperatures, no digital precission here; personally i like it to be gentle (aromatic) at first and finish trying to include high-temperature compounds in a more balanced effort. Otherwise i seem to experience allergy-like signs, as if i require those later goodies while i'm motivated by aroma/taste. Briefly put it's an intuitive process using my own limitations as a radar, to help identify one possible avenue of remedy which may prove useful to persons as myself. YMMV.

:)

...I'm happy to see that you have actually made something out of what I was trying to do 5 years ago.

In that case i can't but find great relief in this most stimulating comment, because i consider coïncidences like that can only mean it was the right track to follow all along, except i feel nobody ever mentioned superheated steam from clean butane burning being mixed with hot dry air in a VaporGenie Classic pipe ever before. Which is what opens the door to butane-less solutions compatible even with purist expectations, since otherwise there's a potentially steep learning curve involved that would lead to incidental soot generation and combustion, etc., sometimes (hence my initial need to customize), etc.

In fact i gave a moddified unit as gift a few weeks ago, hoping to get some "guinea-pig" feedback from a smoker, eventually; no strings attached. Maybe the guy will adapt, or he just sold it for the money, or thrown it into the next garbage can out of ignorance/indifference, unware of the opportunity, etc.

2016 will tell i guess.

...I was able to vape and sometimes catch on fire accidentally. I'm sure with more discs you have more control over the temps.

Sounds familiar! The thing is, even if i had known what topology to use exactly, i still needed to cumulate observations from numerous errors. Those limitations constituted my "radar" and without it was practically impossible to feel this much confident that i've really tried my best to find a solution for the cough-cough syndrome and more... To say it works wouldn't have sufficed in retrospective, i had to endure a hot mouthpiece, condensation in my extension tube, overheat buildup in my sphere, allergy-like signs from low-temperature terpenes or else, hot-spot cooking, accidental combustion, skin burns, etc. For all i know, without all this frustration my project couldn't have seemed as satisfactory (on a personal basis) near the end.

So i thank you for providing a nice opportunity to write it down consecutively to an authetic dialog, i couldn't imagine any better favour for the Christmass season!

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
Congratulations on making a solid alternative pipe! You sound happy with your progress and I like what you have done.

The actual stock HS (example non-stock seen in pic on top right) was slightly slimmer than the one shown in the pic but same inert material. I would use a triple flame torch. A small screen was used at the base of the end of the bowl piece (top left shown in pic is example glass "jack" screen, but I believe I was using a circular glass screen at the time).

I currently only rarely use the HS for oil these days, but if I were to try this method of vaping flower again I would certainly borrow a good portion of your ideas in this thread, so thank you for that.

NSFW:
JwZcsAI.jpg


And another pic showing a different angle of OG HS. This model was the 14mm version btw.
NSFW:
6XTqnFO.jpg
 
Hi there W01fg4ng!

You sound happy with your progress and I like what you have done.

Oh yes, i'm at ease now and it is my reward to read from other people who understand the situation. Pass the word!

%)

I would use a triple flame torch.

It was quite pleasing for me to find 2 Health Stone illustrations this morning, i'm aware the reader may prefer more traditional setups although it seems to me the air layer behind that Front Puck also happened to be an avenue i've investigated a long while, hoping for a simpler economical solution. Provided implementation is adapted i guess a triple converging "jet" flame works best for micro-bursting - but that also exposes to thick clouds that give all its meaning to having a "hit", beware!...

;)

...if I were to try this method of vaping flower again I would certainly borrow a good portion of your ideas in this thread...

Thank you but lets not minimize the original work on which i depended for my prototyping platform to begin with! Not to mention it was designed with hybrid cores in mind already...

...another pic showing a different angle... ...the 14mm version...

Glass is a treat when it comes to reclaims and maintenance, but i keep droping things around these days so i see wood as being forgiving in comparison. Maybe some day we'll get glassware wrapped in some floating silicone skin that absorbs mechanical shocks while insulating from the heat, with a recessed ring on top, etc. There still are valid reasons to wish for an adapter that is compatible with water accessories, i believe, but i concluded this is for heavy use where medication has priority over appreciation while apparently defeating micro-bursting experimentations completely. Not to mention i could hardly focuss correctly on this specific alternative as it required re-adjustment of airflow velocity, because of the drag and other features, meaning i may want to revisit the water scenario in a future i can't foresee at the moment.

Ritual would change so much though it's not on my present to-do list, which doesn't mean it won't be usefull to readers with different expections and needs. So maybe all you might have needed was a relatively thin air layer followed by an equally thin Health Stone i figure.

YMMV! :)

Yet the summum of satisfaction for me will come from VaporGenie themselves if/when they eventually decide to continue working on their pattented concept, to include Induction Heat ideally. That would seem at the very least like a slap in the face of Loto Labs, for example, but most especially them as they kept bragging around over their fishy Evoke project for years, without ever showing much but some questionable advertizing talent on top of that - and little logic at all (i'm thinking of their modular coils system WITH electrical connectors)! Euh...

Go figure... 8)

By the way i've started removing wood as planned on 1 oak Sphere while i intend to keep another in genuine shape externally. It's probable i'll offer a close relative to buy 2 pipes so he can have 2 spheres and possibly even a water accessory adapter, so he can conveniently decide what method works best for him exactly.

In the meantime i keep dreaming of genuine VG hybrid cores/spheres, direct from the manufacturer, someday!...

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
Salutations everyone,

Here are a few snapshots to complete previous illustrations of a fully customized VG Sphere:

2l8j6uq.jpg

First of all that monobloc unit topping that sphere shown above was eventually cut down by some ~4.5 mm and its corresponding Flame-Catching Funnel, under it, by 2.5+ mm; new total length inside combined metal paths being 25.6 mm total, which is less than the wooden ball at 30 mm overall, as i recall.

A cutting tool with a diameter of 23 mm (ext.) exactly would have been prefered since that's the minimal clearance required to insert the metal components beyond the surface: 4 ~ 5 mm deep on top and 6 ~ 7 mm deep on the Screwing-Base side.

N.B.: Please be advised, for all practicaly purposes the monobloc item simply can't be cut with a saw-blade!...

;)

jff284.jpg

Next a modded Sphere made of Oak is pictured with some preliminary PVC Tubing Extension:

2ew2s92.jpg

It worked though it appeared to have a "character" of its own since Micro-Bursting mode was no longer an option using it, which is no big loss because the slower ritual/less intense alternative has some good features in terms of yellow flame compatibility, while taste felt appropriate with little baking/roasting. But quite frankly i like goose-neck shapes better! Just like this one that will do the trick as it sticks to the wooden surface too, thanks to its flexible plastic.

24lkils.jpg

I measured 150 mm long for my plastic tube itself and then 23 mm long for the protruding part of its associated mouthpiece, in black. That's nearly 17 cm once installed in place firmly.

In addition, judging from what i've perceived so far it's probably a valid candidate for evaluation of my yet-to-come "4¾ - 1½ - 2¾" configuration, or so. Or maybe "5¼ - 1½ - 2¾" before i chop an SiC Puck again... Time will tell.

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
More measurement estimates, on exact screen types this time:

#1) Genuine VaporGenie Screen installed below the primary bowl floor to hold UFO Element, seems like Mesh-40
#2) SS/Titanium main bowl floor, set on top of VG loop-retainer support, was evaluated to be finer Mesh-100
#3) Brass wrap for SiC Top-of-Bowl Puck support and maintenance-free convenience (...), would be Mesh-50​
 
Finally a cheap/jetable solution!

210bnrc.jpg

It cost me a mere 1.29 $ CAD at Hart and it sells 1.69 $ on the Canadian Tire web site, while in Shawinigan those happen to be 2 local stores on top of it...

This will allow further exploration of the hybrid consumption mode where pre-heating only would depend on a blue "jet" flame.

%)

Somehow the softer yellow "candle" flame feels quite appropriate to perform my actual vaporisation/inhalation phase.

More evaluations awaiting...

;)
 
Pop again!



Details of my "Calumet" setup showing a 2nd UFO Element in the cannabic path, in an attempt to reduce the risk of burns a little bit further:

2h4g41i.jpg

Always trying to reach enlarged "application ranges"...

2wpqxlf.jpg

Including Micro-Bursting in user-friendly easy-to-replicate format that even works with yellow flames exclusively:

qraqtz.jpg

And just yesterday i was still exploring alternate configurations...

"3¼ - 1¼ - 2¾"
Basic Sphere - with basic genuine VG external loyout.
Basic Sphere - in Calumet scenario.


4¼ - 1¼ - 3¼
DeLuxe Fully-Customized (extra-short monobloc) Sphere

My next test on the to-do list being - - i guess, which i feel might prove to seem almost universal in all 3 scenarios above.

...

A side-note in picture about PVC aging:

2hmn1xl.jpg

Also, the obvious PinHole angle. Then, finally, this is how i make a PVC tube with an "S" or "J" profile:

2e194rs.jpg

Cheese cloth inside prevents flattening while it also helps with applying tension, etc. Then the final shape becomes gradually permanent after heat-cycling, simply using microwaved and cold tap water alternately a few times. Be careful not to get burned!...

;)

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
Merry christmass!
Happy new year!...

M'wel, that could be my conclusion and i'd be happy about it:

jq5lac.jpg

My favorite core configuration so far, aiming for universality: 4¾ mm thick SiC Front Puck + 1¼ mm thick 17-Holes Metal Disc + 3¼ mm thick SiC Top-of-Bowl Puck wrapped in Brass Screen.

The MonoBloc part has been made as short as 10 mm deep inside no problem, though a few mm only were removed on the Ring/Funnel part on top (it stays better in place if longer). As a result my full-custom pipe ends up being physically smaller (8.5 mm less in total height) while it's rendered much safer too, because of the added 6 mm wood guardband among other things. Which is true Harm Reduction too in my book - unless skin burns don't count!...

;)

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
Salutations,

There's been a number of additional iteration cycles taking place since Christmas, lets recap!

US7434584



Vaporization pipe with flame filter (fig. 11/12)

At the time my Hybrid core was still relatively massive and hence it required more fire throttle than i could imagine necessary, which paved the way to "pepper" and "punch-in-the-face" incidents...

15hg8ef.jpg


359aemd.jpg


11954de.jpg


Eventually i wanted to trim down that core and also pick some more suitable butane lighter, the twin-flame Honest WoodPecker model (incl. clones) being good enough in terms of fire strength but it needed significant inhalation force to make the 2 flames join inside a Flame-Catcher... So, after a long while i brought back Slick's discontinued MF-208 in service (or clone, now replaced by the Slick YYG-810 though this particular unit just ain't useful here i'm afraid), in any case i've eliminated the kitchen torch as that was problematic. I figure a single-flame blue "jet" butane lighter with power ranging between the WoodPecker and MF-208 should match the intended range of application properly enough, just pay attention to the presence of a fuel level indicator and tank capacity as those are important features on the long run...

Now here's my ALL-TIME WINNER SCENARIO:

1zz1fes.jpg


<3

This specific evaluation provided the best aroma/taste appreciation i've ever succeeded experiencing in years!

It's an excellent option except i prefer eye-contact on my Bronze Sherlock, e.g. i've opted for a trade-off exchanging some aroma/taste for a physical layout that's more convenient to manage for me, to help further in avoiding operation errors...

By the way, there's sort of a half-ball-of-wire type of filter under my Bowl to catch tar and particles. Cotton can be included in the path at this level but i like it better in plain view, inside a clear plastic tube, to get a hint reminding me about maintenance. Ah, and about the later i've switched to using oil vegetal oil to clean my screens, instead of the more expensive 94 % grain alcohol solution... Simply soap 'n rinse afterwards!

;)

In addition, it appears sometimes a Sphere configured for 1 specific model won't readily match another with different airflow characteristics. IMO this explains broken symetries observed while performing some iterative adjustment sessions where it became evident the Hybrid Core has to fit in in terms of airflow. Consequently, on top of paying attention to flame throttle as a function of butane lighter models i ended up trying to tweak my flexible PVC Extension Tubing as well - including PinHole(s), etc.

Here's how that culminated:

20stzjk.jpg


10sgh1f.jpg


1ffq6x.jpg


23vkm6q.jpg


35ak809.jpg


Please note my "FP - MD - ToBP" notation needed to be completed with more details, the Flame-Catcher + Monobloc e.g. "(10-x)" dimmensions for starters.

Months later i can finally put numbers on my "Plan-A" (Induction Heat) scenario: 62 Joules to raise temperature of the 17-Holes Metal Disc by 225 degrees Celsius at room temperature in an hypothetical IH Sphere for a non-magnetic structure equivalent to my customized VG Bronze Sherlock airflow, most preferably made of glass i suppose. For the "Classic" look Aluminium 10 more Joules will be required as the disc is 0.125 mm thicker... Then ~49 more Joules for a Bowl-Ring pre-heating @ 135 degrees Celsius, for example - which finally points at a ~180 +/- 10 Joules window relatively to a full self-cleaning (symetric-reversible) LavaWand capsule with 2 cores joined by the Bowl-Ring. In other words that's some preliminary hint supporting battery operation while pre-heating time would range between 3 to 9 seconds if i'm not mistaking.

And talking of pre-heating it's about time i explain my corresponding "ritual" so here are directives i've posted last May on my Google+ page:

[ https://plus.google.com/u/0/collection/AsJSIB ]

-=*=-

This is the English equivalent of my instructions as published previously:

0 - About Bowl loading, Always Fill and Never Pack. Keep in mind the Support Loop located right under a pipe's Cannabic Bowl needs to be "flipped" after removal as this greatly eases reinsertion, simply by screwing it in clockwise.

1 - With butane and/or it's related compounds present in the lungs path make sure there's ALWAYS a clean burning flame to convert butane from such stream into relatively safe superheated Water Vapor and Carbonic Gas, while taking care to inhale with much less force (by lifting the thumb over a pipe's PinHole) to pre-heat the Hybrid Core of a customized Sphere.

2 - NEVER let a flame touch anything as this will result in the addition of soot plus other nuisances. All that is required to be captured by the Flame-Catcher to inject a "Heat Charge" or "Energy Bubble" has to do with the Energy-Carrying Exhaust + some Radiative Heat.

3 - NEVER light up or extinguist a butane lighter close to the Flame Catcher. Flint-Wheel Yellow-Flame models generate health-hasard particles in the spark while the Blue Flame ones may fail to consume butane cleanly, extinguish at random and/or spit out liquid butane droplets not converted by fire... Briefly put, ALWAYS wait for a flame to stabilize before it's taken close to the Flame-Catcher Aperture.

4 - When a primary PinHole is available lift thumb during Pre-Heating. Once the Sphere is sufficiently energized, e.g. between 2~5 seconds depending on a butane lighter, use its stored heat which has just been temporarily injected into the Hybrid Core WITHOUT any butane and/or related stream present near the Flame-Catcher Aperture. This indirect/residual energy-source alone suffices to proceed with the actual Vaporization process.

5 - While vaporizing obstruct the PinHole in brief pulses, very short at first then increasingly longer to compensate for lost heat from the Hybrid Core as its energy reserve gets depleted. The periods with no PinHole-obstructive thumb in action contribute to oxygenation of the cannabic stream while promoting early detection of vaporization signs, especially hints as aroma/taste. Think of some method vaguely similar to "pumping" a car's breaks in an emergy maneuver situation, the goal being to probe using a sequence of short pulses instead of attempting to get it done in 1 single long pulse.

6 - A ~125 mg Bowl provides about 5~6 tokes, the left-over can be made useful at a later to produce relaxing cookies. Don't forget that once in a while even an empty cannabic Bowl can provide some satisfying toke (or two) from a sticky screen alone. Evidently stronger cookies should result from leaving more THC behind from vaping.

7 - It's time for cleanup maintenance when the pipe stops working as usual. Pick a pipe stick wetted with 94 % pure grain alcohol to clean wood VG Handles. NEVER allow the wood to absorb water as this would promote cracks in the wood. Metal models are to be prefered when condensed noble molecules need to be "reclaimed", though these feel heavier in the hand while wood's near organic-like aspects would prove more "sexy". Alternately, wood is an absorbing material so this makes it less desirable if/when resin reclaims are desired.

8 - Initially i found the genuine layout with VG's DuckLips MouthPiece was getting uncomfortably hot, the addition of a half-ball stainless steel object down under my cannabic Bowl paved the way to lower-temperature cannabic vapor being sent towards the lungs; as an option it may also help to capture particles in the cannabic vapor using a tiny cotton ball which somewhat adds to the cooling action after getting moist.

9 - When attempting to reconfigure the DuckLips MouthPiece to reflect the side-wise preference of an operator (e.g. right vs left) try to never forget about twisting it lightly while pulling on it with care as it's brittle.

10 - The need for eye-contact on the flame tip may require a Flexible Plastic PVC Tubing Extension. A length of 12.5 cm will do and that's a better place where to install the optional cotton ball. Last but not least, clear plastic makes it easy to monitor butane consumption based on water vapor condensation creating droplets in the tube after a potential abuse situation, or operating error, etc. The Tubing Extension will opacify if/when abuse continues, ultimately. End the session and re-evaluate operator skills if this occurs, don't forget to shake off liquid water droplets after removing that tube.

-=*=-



Last but not least this is what's next on the horizon i guess:

1zg5f8h.jpg


Actually using 2 opacity sensors i believe it may be an option to extract velocity as well.

So, now that i managed to get the layout(s) about right it would be quite nice being able to extract some additional meaning from such a prototyping platform... Histograms for users to exchange in hope to accelerate acquisition of operator skills, etc.

%)

Ah, and this is my "driver" today:

168vtkn.jpg


After that abstinence would be awaiting for me again, lucky me i'v found my St-Gräal at last. Not 1 year too soon!...

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
nice to see you're still experimenting :) must say i am curious about trying such a device, after being used to just unfiltered vapour
 
Salutations ThujOne,

nice to see you're still experimenting...

That's nice to say, thank you. :D

I've been so involved into this (almost an obcession...) there had to be a better ending!! %)

...must say i am curious about trying such a device...

Great, you're the very 1st person to suggest me in writing that there might actually even be volunteers around willing to give it a fair try.

Beware, none of the few customized pipes given away in the process resulted in significative feedback. 1 was returned to me after the guy set it in fire - on purpose i believe. He got a 2nd chance as i cleaned it the best i could and even added an extension tube but that was in vain as i found out later he was acting in bad faith. Another guy turned his unit into some artistic artifact to be appreciated in display like a painting, whatever, while one more unit in his possession which was supposed to go to his brother never made it to its destination... Yet another person who was friendly before got a change of attitude after receiving a pipe meant for a relative, another brother from who i abandoned all hopes to obtain any useful comments. Etc. So far there's only 1 guy i can think to have grown appreciative of vaporisation, hence he's the one who i gave the aluminium pipe to in the end. Etc., so to be honest lets admit i once wished to read just what i see above, when there were a large number of pipes on my desk.

All that remains is wood and other excess parts except VG's SiC puck which i can't obtain without purchasing yet one more pipe, unfortunately.

Nonetheless, the 1 rare "UFO Element" item which readers must be able to find to conduct their own experiment replica can be acquired from a smoke-shop newly opened in Montréal. I still got the cashier coupon at hand so i'll post you their civic coordinates in private, just in case as i don't lurk much anymore.

...after being used to just unfiltered vapour...

Oh, well it's not mandatory to add cotton in the path. I often forgot putting it back after maintenance and it was hard to tell the difference other than to rest assured i've done my best to make it "Harm Reduction" compatible!... If you or somebody else ever choose to give VG's concept a good chance to shine (once customized as suggested) then i'll warmly recommend their "Classic" look Aluminium pipe unless eye-contact is important here as well.

;)

In any case please take note the manufacturer's operating directives no longer apply necessarily considering this is modified with a "micro-Bursting" (pulsed for maximum aroma/taste appreciation) method in mind, hence those instructions i published previously...

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
ADDENDUM



2cg06ir.jpg


%)

Simplified Ritual: 1st Pre-Heat (Heat-Charge Injection, IH for "Plan-A" or Clean-Butane Burning for "Plan-B"), add another Heat Pulse until Dim-Red Spot appears then Remove Flame, Heat Up Cannabic Bowl/Release Noble Goodies then Transport away to avoid baking in Oven Cavity... Inhale via AirFlow-Adjusted MouthPiece, Appreciate/Recirculate then Purge to keep clean!... Disassemble PVC Extension Tubing to let dry, even remove wet cotton if neccessary.
 
Salutations,

This image suggests the length of a cannabic path ain't the only factor to consider, there's also turbulence. For example, notice in this comparative illustration how favourite mouthpiece configurations varied as a function of my setup, despite path lengths that look similar in appearence:

2a7c5xl.jpg

When loaded with a fresh bowl my customized Bronze Sherlock pipe feels best if i top it with a DuckLips MP, to help me compensate for the additional airflow disturbance i figure. Going the "Classic" way still tastes and smells better, wood or aluminium. A customized HA MP with its central hole enlarged to ¼" or ~6 mm dia will match VG's DuckLips one quite conveniently, especially after cutting it to a total length of 35.5 mm (this effectively reduces stem friction, rendering adjustments even more pleasant to perform)...

Take note with wood it was relatively easy to create a mating junction - but next time i'll pick maple over oak as the later can prove tricky while trying to use sharp tools... Other than that, in retrospective i should have tried this fine option much earlier as it's just so simpler to implement and hence accessible in the end.

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
Salutations,

Still about airflow vs turbulence, i've finally tried the Capsule scenario in "Plan-B" mode, E.G. not using Induction Heat yet (no proper Curie-alloys available here):

warjfr.jpg

Using a 2nd Hybrid Core (and Sphere) linked by this new item below it appeared to me that such Core contraption used as a particles filter works just fine after all (i could inhale through it and not notice a need to reconfigure), so welcome the Bowl-Ring:

33neuwx.jpg

N. B.: The Monobloc fins always align the same, time after time, which whould greatly simplify relocation of the Main PinHole(s) directly on each of the Spheres themselves.

...

Finally here's the crafting tool which eased my task a great deal trying to add more 17-Holes Metal Discs to my existing Spheres arsenal:

1zxa2rs.jpg

It's nothing but a piece of copper tube filled with 2 electrical terminators. Of course a caliper becomes necessary at this level of desired replicability, to measure the Metal Discs once in a while removing some excess material, until completion of the task.

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
Time to pop!



I've finally managed to find butane lighters with the blue flame throttle i was hoping for, so here's a setup which worked great using that exactly:

e1f22g.jpg

Then, unable not to continue wondering what's more to wish for i identified this complementary set as a viable alternative:

530g3p.jpg

It appears the left-side Sphere works best with the left-side butane lighter while a more appropriate fit for the right-side Sphere happens to be the new (right-side) units.

In "Plan-A" mode i figure both Spheres working simultaneously can even have their PinHole paths actually mixed in a controlled analog fashion, to offer convenient adjustment as the cannabic bowl gets progressively depleted... My short Sphere gives access to plenty of aroma/taste appreciation then its tall companion helps to finish it, the application range goes from aromatherapy to high-temperature medication. I'd expect more tweaking would be required to improve compatibility to support switching between "Plan-B" and "Plan-A" as required, m'well at least i got half of "Bi-Energy" nearly solved, in principle; considering those Hybrid Core configurations look quite similar and yet their final behaviours definitely felt as from 2 different things (...), my only hint is that the 0.92 mm thick 17-Holes Metal Disc happens to be a tight-fit and its 0.94 mm counterpart ain't at all. In addition the tiny variation of flame path depending on the selected Sphere may compound to this factor i suppose.

Anyway, i finally started to envision Induction Heat scenarios built around 2 slightly dissimilar Hybrid Core layouts, reasoning that a pair of Curie-points can inderectly provide such presumably convenient adjustment feature.

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
Salutations,

The time for "Plan-B" Hybrid Core setup evaluations is finally over and i consider half of my "Bi-Energy" idea is now proven. It works real fine! M'well, lets admit in reality there's no such half at all as long as its counterpart remains to be evaluated as well. But then, what could go wrong doing the transition? All it takes is to give "Plan-A" a fair try relatively to multiple Curie-effect alloy substitutions, since that's the most basic requirement for my Lava concept initially; plus manufacturing capabilities and hence that's pretty much in the theoretical domain for me. Not to mention i managed to get my vaporist pipe nicely customized after all:

2dikdoo.jpg

Looking at my Capsule's size i've never been so confident over Bi-Energy, in this particular VG-based scenario. As far as i can tell my "application range" appears to conveniently correspond to the "socio-acceptable" target i had in mind for some while - more or less since "legaleezation" launched a frenzy on planet Itnoc...

With no butane fuel and no batteries near our faces IH mode would offer uncompromized/dependable basic security. There's no power source in the LavaWand/LavaCapsule itself: it's pre-charged then lifted out of the IH driver, in principle. Then with suitable "Micro-Bursting" support comes potentially improved self-responsabilisation, although not always even concious, etc. It's a very different ritual compared to the reference material, and it effectively opens the door on IH perspectives though that requires creative imagination efforts... By chance the spark of inspiration does renew my convictions at times, for example in IH mode the Capsule might as well feed on 2 Hybrid Cores in a controlled mixing manner, to provide adjustability between 2 Curie-defined limits so to speak. Hopefully with sufficient precision, thanks to "packetization".

With a whole Capsule body @ ~135 °C i'd see 3 spots where to implement distilled water evaporators: 2 sites, 1 in each separate Flame-Catcher of a full Near-Symetrical Capsule; 1 site around the Bowl-Ring central anular collector channel. E.G. 2 as inlet steam generators, 1 as an outlet moisturizer/filter... So, the mating junction would juxtapose those 3 channels while the Main PinHoles would have been displaced onto each Sphere individually, to support controlled-ratio pressure drops reflecting the adjustment feature (from a co-axial sliding mixer perhaps), etc. Also, i like the massive metal mass as it protects from intense burns and it's most handy when i want to torch-red a screen quick (its back stays relatively safe despite intense flames ). In addition, keep in mind in a purist "Plan-A" only scenario there would be ZERO Flame-Catchers i figure...

fxb40.gif

Then i have to find how this solution above can bridge the gap with ideas as what's illustrated below:

rsarde.jpg

Though i feel it calls for a correction already, like having a duo of separate 17-Holes Metal Discs which are NOT part of the Monobloc body. That way all externally exposed surfaces shall be @ 135 °C or so (in charged state) and that's good enough for a water boiler/evaporator IMO...

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
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Quick update...



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The PinHoles mixing ratio would be continuously variable while global PinHole inlet should remain relatively constant.
 
Some more...



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Weapon of Mass Seduction​

It's not that different from using hot knives, with the risk of skin burns significantly reduced...
 
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