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Harm Reduction type of modded vaporizer pipe

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Hi there...

Well i've tried a few things and now i got my answers it seems. There can be a Glass Shield added to lower temperature before metal surface is reached, but that causes a translation of the operating range i would say, it's convenient with stronger flames perhaps but i'm not going to have much use for that. Pre-heat time has plumetted to the point i can have a toke performed without it, this shows up as a diminution in water vapor condensation on the internal tubing surface. Testing with an elongated tube proved interesting as well, i'm still experimenting with the long verion most of the time, which sets ideal distance between my glasses and the pipe's top between 6 to 8½ inches. I didn't appreciate the shorty version, so the extension remains.

After a few days water drinking felt more appropriate, strong gum too though my allergy-related symptoms have receeded seriously.

It's evident to me there a before and an after configuration which are similar and yet the new layout is a spectacular improvement over my previous fate, since it's only now i've become able to play with such thick clouds again i conclude the time-compressed (bursting) mode of consumption is a probable hint that explains it all IMO.

It's never been that ex-smoker friendly, i wish it didn't take me so long to get there!

...

Good day, have fun!!
biggrin.gif
 
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Egzoset said:
Salutations everybody,

I wish to present you my personalized pipe(s) as it looks today!

iohdt5.jpg

(Family view from previous experiments...)

wrjcxx.jpg

(The Core...)

2eezmro.jpg

(Empty Bowl...)

Yep! It's that good!! Not just because it vaporizes, no: it "saves" too and it also helped me to avoid/push back the fatidic "T-Break" period as a by-product. My HerbalAire was like a locomotive, i felt compelled to finish crucibles/bags once started... My pipe's bowl capacity is around 125 mg in comparison, not to mention this translates as "1 Hit" inhalations and hence a bowl can be consumed at the owner's pace, which leads to long enjoyable evenings.

Lets be honnest, there's some dust collecting behind that metal screen but what's on the bowl side looks somewhat more appealing than whatever comes out of any smoker apparatus i've ever seen before! I mean, that's a mix of wax, resin and vegetal particles on my second photograph, correct?...

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Last but not least, while i was toying around with my VG i discovered an unexpected sensitivity to butane-related contaminants so it motivated me in searching a way to reduce exposure and i believe i've found my answers! Here's one right here:

2hs3psp.jpg


This is an aluminium support holding a tetrahedral-shaped glass shield as shown below:

2j3s5ev.jpg


The front "Ceramic Filter" is about 4 mm on this snapshot, the smaller one in the base conduit is 2 mm thick only and it's wrapped by a screen which serves as support (it's an eroded/refurbished item). After 15 or so versions i feel "foamy-rock" + aluminium (at the focal point) + 2~3 mm of air (in between) + glass + more "foamy-rock" and stainless-steel finally, euh... that this particular stacked structure works great for me. Give it a try too if you can, then who knows!...

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In my opinion we haven't seen the last of those just yet. Not only is this relatively economic and certainly reliable/portable, i equally found that even if i consider this to be my official "Plan-B" its features render it ideal in "sampling" missions. The heating period is very brief, 3 seconds approximately, while heating there's some energy stored in the structure that is available after the flame is removed, so that inhalation can last 1 or 2 more seconds in practical terms. In comparison i was inhalating (with my flame lit) for much longer than that (12~15 s), hence the "HR" aspect in cutting it down something like 4-fold on average... More distant "T-Breaks" and lesser cannabis/money/butane consumption, etc... i think it's worth the share as a result of that alone.

So, if you once enjoyed smoking and now/still consider vaporization, but possibly got discouraged by 1st contact with the VaporGenie pipe, euh... Well, then my advice is to consider the alternatives and i've just presented you one!!

I have myself and this allowed me to experience the pipe in ways hardly accessible previously, as this extensive form of "modding" (2-stones & an hybrid shield!) provides eye-contact through the PVC tube and this changed everything as i adopted it early...

The extended operating range makes it easy enough to get complete satisfying sessions and prevent combustion until there's not much left anyway. When fully spent the load falls down using nothing but gravity and maybe a side-blow or two; i prefer to discard my leftovers a bit sooner (to avoid the pop-corn flavour) so i keep it for later use in cooking recipes instead (another still in-progress adventure). The last thing on my immediate agenda is finding the best way to reclaim from bottom-of-bowl screens since the second picture on top strongly suggests i should!

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My conclusion is simple, knowing how today's economics can hurt one would hope there's some affordable alternative to smoking and i believe a few good candidates will be offered to future generations (that i wish had existed 30-some years ago)!... View this post as a simple prelude.

=D
Click to expand...

What a Joke
 
Salutations everyone,

Evidently for some guys it is only 1 testimony among a multitude, etc. There are people who feel justified to stop other people from paying attention, for some obscure reason, etc, etc... Yet the thing is i found my guiding light and controversy seems trivial at this point simply because i can't be reached anymore: too late, what i have now cannot be taken away from me by no one and that's it. Done deal! Game over, it won't stop me from having a funny thought in the veranda each time i enjoy one good toke much like i dreamed of those for so long! That's all i need to care for, i wish i could avoid all the fuzz that comes as an option, euh... Oh well!... Lucky me i'll have my imagination wandering elsewhere in a few minutes!...

%)

For all i can tell i've made myself available as i shared my observations, while collecting silent/lurking ennemies in the process it appears. The reader should still feel free to replicate these experiments, to perform his own investigation and possibly using variants since it may represent some real challenge to find suitable core parts.

IMO just make sure to have a Front-Puck that's 4 mm thick, to garantee opacity for starters: there's going to be hot metal behind. Additionally, in retrospective a flexible tube meant to provide line-of-sight control of the flame is also nearly unavoidable. I must admit a typical user would probably fail sensing the improvement, those persons should enjoy their luck and wish they never get their cannabis habit jeopardized as mine was; they correspond to those lucky guys who can manage with a genuine VG Classic configuration and this present thread wasn't meant for them, obviously.

My quest for relevant hints is practically over, in principle i've identified factors i must focuss on and my next challenge will be implementation of Inlet Auto-Conditioning without having to depend on butane at all:

2qxxfdk.jpg

No butane pre-heating, no nothing butane-related. So far the purists shall be happy with my preliminary "Plan-A" ideas but that's another story!... As for "Plan-B" i've tweaked it as much as i could i guess, it's now about time to pass the fire as i'm certainly satisfied with the outcome.

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
More Update


30clt9l.jpg

​

The UFO element has its longer channel in the center, mid-length channels on the middle perimeter while the shortest ones are located on a perimeter away from the center. Constriction force varies with succion, which implies coupling to the channels can be modulated as a function of inhalation force IMHO...
 
Update on the update...



About the concentric perimeters on which the channel apertures are located, with the longest of all as the central axis. My illustration is meant to symbolize heat coming through a 4 mm thick SiC Front Puck (from down up), while inhaling with maximum force constriction turns the red-hot point into a dot, progressively. This should translate as a means to adjust "coupling" using that force, to "modulate" size of the red-hot spot exactly. At low speed i'd expect maximum protection-delay but slow partial/temporary storage of heat in the UFO element while high airflow velocity would cause the spot to shrink into a dot and hence limit heating in at least 2 ways i can think of: 1) the central (longest) channel is alone under an intense red-hot dot, it will hold for a fraction of a second, then i risk over-heat combustion... 2) I forgot what #2 was supposed to be. Maybe i'll figure that out next time!

By the way. I'm surprized nobody thought of varying channel sizes in diameter, nor am i too certain which direction the UFO's nose should point during installation.

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
More update...



mmy44i.jpg

M'well, this illustration talks for itself. Pressure affects constriction force which affects diameter of my red-hot dot (on surface) that in turn also affects heat-transfer via dynamically-adjustable coupling to some "UFO" shaped element, apparently made of aluminium or a related alloy since that's working as a heat-exchanger with 17 various-length channels.

At 1st i draw with vigor to "pre-charge" the UFO bit with heat (heat is "focussed" on the long-path), but just for a brief instant as i don't want to risk combustion by exceeding its capacity, then inhalation takes place at a significantly slower airflow speed, once vaporisation is detected and hence the lesser constriction results in loose coupling that favours the numerous short-parth channels instead. Both heat sources combine during the last phase, especially after taking my pipe away from the blue "jet" flame, that is, etc.

Learning curve shouldn't be much of an issue anymore, i've performed multiple dense tokes that were quite satisfying using this newer configuration and i just can't wait to rebuilt my pipe knowing excatly what i would have needed in March 2012 or so!... But at least this time i feel a nice conclusion can be reached in time before Christmass...

=D
 
Salutations,

JebJebJeb said:
I thought...
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M'yeah, after almost 9 hundred days lets admit that's to be expected and not just on 1 board.

Yet although that seems somewhat late please feel free to prove me wrong if you can! %)

Forget words, acquire your own experience then compare. M'well, nobody cared for that particular challenge before so i'm not holding my breath (which i find to be such an appropriate figure of speech!)...

Egzoset said:
...the "HR" aspect in cutting it down... ...lesser cannabis/money/butane consumption, etc...
Click to expand...

Actually this summer's permanent improvement convinced me the "Harm Reduction" objective of my whole project has been reached and i must now proceed with building myself a new personalized pipe. Based on these late findings i plan using a slightly longer PVC tube extension near 10 7/16" (26.5 mm) overall, mouthpiece included; its absorbing material happens to implement a valuable visual indicator of potential overheating which typically results in consuming more butane and hence more water vapor is generated from the clean butane-burning reaction... This feature requires more attention but i've adopted it as it feels suitable, it offers some useful feedback.

Quite frankly, chances are that modded VG pipe will keep me busy a little longer. I've got a blue one, such change of colour would invite a simultaneous PVC tubing replacement, with different colour tones to match... Which is one messy & involving task not worth the mention today. I'm hoping i can get another Classic maple instead.

​


Que sera! Sera!

Bye! =D
 
UPDATE



Lucky me i found just what i needed to cut VG's Classic SiC pucks in 2 parts, 1 being for my 4 mm thick Front-Puck while the rest goes to a 2 mm thick Top-of-Bowl Puck.

That's only 6 mm total SiC (in 2 layers) and yet a genuine VG SiC pellet is ~7.5 mm thick while the blade itself only measure some 0.3 mm. Unfortunately there's some degree of human error kicking in even using the assorted "Mitre Box", so the missing part went off after polishing new freshly/roughly cut surfaces i guess... My present configuration has a UFO element trimmed down by ~ 1 mm at the base; a pair of 2 mm thick T-o-B SiC pucks is used in my present configuration testing an hybrid ritual with both blue "jet" and yellow "candle" flames, blue for the pre-heating phase and yellow for the actual inhalation one. A relatively intense/tasty "Pepper" style appreciation could be achieved without much additional learning but the MF-208 lighter seems more suitable than its newer YYG-810 replacement: the later appears to lack power, probably resulting from a tradeoff meant to favour fuel-tank autonomy...

w12ohf.jpg

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
Salutations everybody,

This appears to be as far as i can push it moddifying the VaporGenie Classic:

ff7ipe.jpg

Here's a Twin-Pucks (SiC) 2 x 3 mm thick scenario i tested previously:

awydlw.jpg

The "Thin" UFO Element version (with 1 mm less at its base) had no support and the core felt too distant from the bowl, consequently part of the Heat-Exchanger is now relocated inside the Sphere's Screwing-Base Aperture using an eroded 2 mm thick SiC Top-of-Bowl Puck held in place by some brass screen, except this time my SiC puck is inserted 1st (instead of wrapped) then its brass support/screen conveniently secures the asssembly. The brass item has ridges meant to add a thin layer of air in between, on top of the cannabic bowl.

vfa7x4.jpg

Also, while i think of it, about trying to shape the screen: it would be a very bad idea to proceed directly on the SiC puck as this is hard but easy-to-crack material!

;)

The Front Puck is now somewhat more than 3 mm thick, i'l probably want to aim for 3.5 next time. My Aluminium Tripod support seemed OKay in that core (top picture) but that would have been 1 more hard-to-find part so i'm now just using a steel screen wrapped around the UFO's base as that's much less specific... Can't say the difference for sure.

Finding the right butane blue "jet" flame lighter remains problematic and it gets even wrost having to supply a decent yellow "candle" flame too! Pre-Heating can be performed with a blue flame, it's done in a split-second then a yellow flame will perform the actual vaping efficiently.

A 30° angle #55 or 3/64 " dia. ("à la VapMan") "PinHole" was drilled in such a manner that elongates this channel while displacing its internal ending near the auxiliary (post-vaporizing) chamber. I block it with my thumb during the pre-heat phase as i apply strong succion force for a fraction of a second (to "charge") then i shift down pressure so the red-hot spot enlarges significantly, because of the lesser constriction force. Once my Front Puck has been heated enough it's time to change to yellow flame extraction and that's where it hurts to have no reliable "candle" lighter handy at this very moment (it broke early)!... By chance i can keep using the pipe with blue flames only, though in comparison some appreciative rewards will become more difficult to claim. Releasing the PinHole near the final instant adds a touch of ritual while that helps to keep it cool a bit, hopefully.

The layout made of a brass screen, an air layer, a 2+ mm SiC disc, another screen, a ~4 mm UFO Element and a 3+ mm SiC front disc may define the upper range of operation. Lucky me it works well with empty-bowls/sticky-screens too! Perhaps a bit less metal in the core would render the pipe more agile but i might lack the necessary skills beyond that range. Actually i also revisited the genuine VG Classic setup but it went in smoke, literally, then i got relative success trying again and again but quite clearly that's too demanding for me so i'll stick to "Plan-B" a while longer...

Someday i'll even need to evaluate (nicotine-free) e-Liquid, just for curiosity!

Good day, have fun!! =D
 
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UPDATE



This one was some serious breaktrough:

2a0alqe.jpg

The UFO Element was trimmed again, this time in diameter so it would fit tightly inside the Top-of-Bowl Screwing-Base Aperture. Then i covered it with a ~1.5 mm SiC disc wrapped in brass screen. The Main Heat-Exhanging cavity itself shows little change except my SiC Front-Puck inside is now ~ 4.3 mm thick, that's it. Which suggests to me that 1 single pipe can have its SiC core cut/refurbished to implement the present blue-flame "torch" compatible configuration.

=D
 
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