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The Do-It-Yourself Tool Shed Thread vs Duct Tape Fixes EVERYTHING

^Nice :) That's a hell of a price to boot.

As well as the Leatherman I got from you aeons ago, I was gifted the following by a guy I worked with offshore on my last rig. It will be quite an old model, but it's mint condition & the folding/sliding action is spot on. Very clever mechanism.

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How to seal gap between door and door frame

I live in a house where the rooms have been converted into studio flats. There is a wide gap (almost an inch in places) between the door and the door frame, which is problematic as I am a smoker, and I like to play my music loud, but I may as well have the door wide open when I do because everything leaks out into the hallway and probably into the neighbouring flats. Anybody have any ideas of how I can seal the gap? Bear in mind I am clueless when it comes to DIY, so use simple terms :)
 
the super tinker model of victorinox swiss army knifes has been in my pocket for appx. 30 years.

the only times that one wasn't was when one was clipped by a scumbag at work, when the TSA glommed onto one at an airport that i was travelling through - never to return and when i was capsized in a small craft .

swiss army punks leatherman . leatherman has no tweezers to dig out splinters for one thing among many lacking features .
 
glitterbizkit said:
I live in a house where the rooms have been converted into studio flats. There is a wide gap (almost an inch in places) between the door and the door frame, which is problematic as I am a smoker, and I like to play my music loud, but I may as well have the door wide open when I do because everything leaks out into the hallway and probably into the neighbouring flats. Anybody have any ideas of how I can seal the gap? Bear in mind I am clueless when it comes to DIY, so use simple terms :)
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Temporary solution: Rolled-up towels. Duct-tape (also electricians tape, or any really sticky, long lasting tape). That fixes my smoke problem, but the noise is harder to fix. Sorry, that's all I've got.
 
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hey well, i got my Gerber Suspension today and i'm fucking over the moon with it. :D

VERY solid quality. all the tools lock securely in place, the pliers are lightly sprung (i.e. spring open), and there are rubberised panels at the bits where you grip the pliers, very comfy to use. it's all the things my Leatherman from the early 90s should have been, and more.

there is no fucking way i'm taking this baby to work. it's far too nice. beautiful piece of precision engineering, held together with torx bolts.

\takes it out for another look <3 ;)
 
Thanks for the suggestions so far, only thing is I've got a door guard at the bottom bit so that's ok, but the bigger gap is on the top, and there is also a gap on the side of the door. Some kind of permanent filler perhaps? It's not my property so I'm not sure if I'm allowed to do things like that without consulting the landlord, however the managing agents don't really seem to give a fuck about anything (I live in a bit of a ghetto area), and I've already drilled many holes in the wall, so in the worst case I'd just lose my deposit...
 
Maybe large thin strips of wood or plexglass you could drill onto the door. THey could hang off by like an inch and cover the gaps when you close the door. You could also put weather strip on the wood youve attached. Might help with smoke, idk about music.
 
jeez you gaise...


go to a store that sells hammers and nails (i think brits don't use the term "hardware store" so I don't know what to call it), and look for "weatherstripping". It'll be a flexible foam strip with an adhesive side. Unroll it, and apply it sticky-side down onto the frame of the door where the face of the door (the part you see when it is closed) contacts the frame.

It that's not possible, I'd like to know why... pics would help, but this is the best answer so far.
 
I did buy some stick-on foam strips like you describe, Pander. But the adhesive wasn't strong enough, and also the strips were too thin in some places. But maybe I could buy some more and super-glue them to the door so that they stick.
 
another, slightly more difficult, but considerably more permanent solution-- nail skinny, long wood strips-- in america they're called lathe-- to the top and side of the frame.
 
felix said:
so i'm considering buying a bandsaw. you can get a 'beginners' one for £238.

http://bandsaws.co.uk/Product/Wood_Cutting_Bandsaws/SIP_Wood_Band_Saws/01484_10_Bandsaw

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does anyone out there have one?
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I don't have one personally, but I used to work in a shop and those things are AWESOME for design/shape/freestyle cutting. You can really get creative and stylistic with 'em. It was an industrial size bandsaw, but I'm sure a solid home-version wouldn't be much different.
 
I can probably give limited advice on antique restortation and gemstone/gem jewellery care :).
 
glitterbizkit said:
I live in a house where the rooms have been converted into studio flats. There is a wide gap (almost an inch in places) between the door and the door frame, which is problematic as I am a smoker, and I like to play my music loud, but I may as well have the door wide open when I do because everything leaks out into the hallway and probably into the neighbouring flats. Anybody have any ideas of how I can seal the gap? Bear in mind I am clueless when it comes to DIY, so use simple terms :)
Click to expand...

Any chance we can have a photo of the offending gap to give us a better idea?
 
RE: dewalt drills--

I have burned a couple of them out, mostly by doing things I knew I shouldn't have (mixing grout or mortar with drills possessing only modest torque), but for 95% of jobs I perform, they are more than adequate. When I replaced my last one, Home Depot was running a sale-- 150 USD for a standard cordless drill AND a cordless impact driver. If I bought something else, it would probably be a nice sturdy makita hammer drill...
http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
 
^^^pander you need a Milwaukee hole hog or it's equivalent to stir mud but you know that .
i have an ancient 1/2'' 1/2 drill motor that weighs a ton but it's final drive yields 45 rpm .

more than once i have nearly pulled my shoulder out of joint using this old drill motor and hole hogs . if at all possible i use a long cheater tube over the cylindrical side handle .
torque monsters - all but impossible to stall them - i never have .

that makita uses spendy SDS-PLUS Bits but looks like a contractor's delight .
 
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I think someone has already said it but some sort of foam or rubber strip glued along the frame across the top and sides. They come in a range of widths and thicknesses so you have to decide on one that is thick enough to seal the gap but also squishy enough that you can still close the door. Attach it to the frame so that when you close the door it is squeezed into a seal. You will need a glue that is suitable for rubber but I guess also something you can remove when you leave without too much damage. Liquid nails may take the paint away when you try to remove it.
 
i wonder what damaged the top of that door. the right side's appearance would suggest that it was hung properly .
 
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