[MEGA] Every Year's Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences

[Prelude2TragedyII]

These plants aren't even 10 inches tall and they're too big to Top/Fim?

And as for super cropping, I just get the branches and roll them around with my fingers until I feel the inside of the branch kind of crush, then I let it heal.

And the reason I topped them was because personally I was seeing too much upward growth, these plants were growing 2 inches a day, and having a 2 plant crop would piss me off
And Im not expecting those plants to TAKE off and get the same size, I just wanted to see SOME growth in those clones so when I flower atleast I know Ill get something off of them.

When do people even recommend topping / fimming

 

[mr.muncheez]

Its tough to tell how tall they are from photos, they looked bigger than 10 inches to me..your probably okay to top, I think since I stop topping my plants and using super-cropping, I just don't favor it anymore, but from what I understand if you top, you do it as early as possible. IMO, the faster you can get them to the 12/12 stage the better,..so those 3 that are healthy and pushing is what I'd plan my cycle around...I'd focus on those and if the others catch up cool, if not oh well..I wouldn't slow down my calendar (if you plan on more doing more grows this year) for a couple of clones that don't seem to be doing so well.

 

[Artificial Emotion]

I find that having humidity that high in veg makes plants stretchy, 60% humidity is perfect for me, I try not to get higher than that..

Never heard anyone complain of that ever and I certainly have never experienced that. I find the light intensity, strain and temp have more of an influence.

When using vapor pressure deficift tables, at 72-79°F (22-26°C) the RH should be 70% RH to maintain healthy VPDs. If your growing environment runs on the warm side during summer, at a temp of 79-84°F (26-29°C) the RH should be 75% likewise.

The only time you need to lower the RH is in flower when you're trying to control mold.

 

[Prelude2TragedyII]

Repotted the G13, roots were EVERYwhere, figured it might need a bigger pots, fucked up transplanting the sour diesel, I dont think it will make it this year ( had a little bit of roots, but the main tap root got torn when the soil fell out of the pot
Got a new purple Kush today, much healthier than the other plant, hopefully I can atleast get these 4 plants to work out.
If the sour diesel doesn't start picking up here (cause I tore the roots), I might just toss it, Im so pissed at myself for fucking that up, ugh.

Think I may just start sticking to seedlings...as they seem to do alot better than clones for me...

 

[Greenstar420]

Never heard anyone complain of that ever and I certainly have never experienced that. I find the light intensity, strain and temp have more of an influence.

When using vapor pressure deficift tables, at 72-79°F (22-26°C) the RH should be 70% RH to maintain healthy VPDs. If your growing environment runs on the warm side during summer, at a temp of 79-84°F (26-29°C) the RH should be 75% likewise.

The only time you need to lower the RH is in flower when you're trying to control mold.

Interesting, I've been growing for 10 years now and its always been common knowledge that high humidity causes stretch in veg and def will cause stress and stretch in flower. 70% RH should be avoided, though you are right, light and heat can factor in to stretch also. Optimum humidity levels for cannabis is 55-60% as it encourages transpiration (lets them breathe) and discourages fungus growth.

 

[panic in paradise]

prelude, if it was another plant your chances would be okay. those SD's are not very tolerant to stress and turn hermi fast.
dont toss it though, give it some superthrive and coddling. its a good idea to spray the roots down with it before repotting.
you can grow a decent plant in a quart container, but they need a timely constant supply of light nutes though. i killed my Purple Ice bonsai mother doing this, but i got to sick to think about all that, four days later, she was dead.
BUT, now i know what to expect, and how to handle it.

dont get frustrated, or intimidated, just grow with it maaan.

 

[Prelude2TragedyII]

Hey guys, Quick question, My Afghan Kush was pushing out leaves all over the bottom, and it just was getting very stalky...
Now its started upward growth and it only has one set if new leaves on one side every inch or so, Im kinda confused...Ill try to take a pic, idk if you can see it in the ones Ive already took, but , the spacing between nodes, and the fact that theres only one set of leaves grows on the left, then to the right, then to the left, every inch 2 inches, thats WAY too much space and WAY too little branching.

Its weird, seems the only healthy plants I have are ones that came from seeds, Are clones really that successful and producing the same quantity of marijuana that the mother produces?

Im trying not to panic..in paradise....lol

 

[panic in paradise]

mhmmm, IT happens though lol


usually, ime and from what ive read, a potasium OD will cause such symptoms.

some one please please correct if im wrong!

dude, please BUY THE MARIJUANA HORTICULTURE GROW GUIDE, i am always refFering to it. so much info, almost any answer is in their.
ive been thumbing though looking for a dead on explanation. ive had this happen plenty, so id like to be certain as well, so im going to keep digging, for US , and our plants sake!

buddy boi


ill post as soon as i find a definitive answer.

generally beans will grow more vigorously then clones, but it all depends,,, FFS, heheh.
with that said though, at the end of their day, it all really depends on the plant the clones which bared the seeds cane from. its amazing to think of a 20+ year old Nepalese, or Afghan landrace for instance still vegetating in a dutch mj breeders grow room, providing the world their medicine, hobby/fascination, or leisure.
just that is mind numbing, but i grow lots if plants. ive been cloning several rose bushes for a while now, and their is a 2 meter tall, 2 foot wide perfume rose in my back yard that is easily 50+ years old.

then theres the orchids....


Edit:
and dont feel awkward asking anything, if anyone gets snooty or impatient with you, then thats their ordeal.
ask them, "how did you ever learn anything?"

yeas m&m said it.
clone that Diesel, eat that Diesel heh, dont chunk her.
chop her up now, infuse the top on a Sugar Argial dish.
or, use Aspirin(Salicylic acid) or as ive said Willow Water(IBA growth hormone), in a glass under a 6500k cfl (also promotes female chromosomes dominant in seeds too... more red for more males, which i need).

but, i know if i can focus on the few, they will be greater then the many. thats true with most anything that involves some passion, i do believe so.
:D

 

[Artificial Emotion]

Interesting, I've been growing for 10 years now and its always been common knowledge that high humidity causes stretch in veg and def will cause stress and stretch in flower. 70% RH should be avoided, though you are right, light and heat can factor in to stretch also. Optimum humidity levels for cannabis is 55-60% as it encourages transpiration (lets them breathe) and discourages fungus growth.

I think this is somewhat of a misconception mate. The plants don't like being in lower relative humidity environments full stop. The only reason we use dehumidifiers in bloom is to prevent mold. Of course, the ideal RH levels depend on the actual leaf canopy temps and you could, if were so inclined, use these values, along with the surrounding air temp to calculate the ideal RH for any given temps using an IR temperature gun (quite cheap and easy to get a hold of these days). But usually aiming for a value of around 75% is good if you don't have accurate control of humidity levels using a humidifier of some sort and a humidistat (a really cheap and effective model is available at Digital humidity Stat). Some people even sacrifice a small amount of their harvest to mold to save money on dehumidifier electricity costs and get a somewhat increased yield from the higher RH levels.

Pretty much my entire closet are clones. Clones is the only way to go IMO, once you narrow down which strains work the best for you and which ones produce what your looking for. Prelude you gotta try doing your own clones..didn't you pick these up from somewhere? Get youself a bottle of Clonex (that stuff works fantastic for me) read up a bit about successful cloning, there are plenty of resources out there. It definitely takes some practice, but it is so worth it! You have the wrong impression of clones. Working w/ clones (that came from stable healthy mothers) you don't ever have to worry about having males, plus once you find that gem that you really really like, you have exact duplicates each and every cycle.

I second that.

Take your clones from the lower part of the plant as they root easier and use the right tecnique. Try making diagonal cuts to expose the cambium at the bottom where you made the cut and you'll get them to root easier. Also, using Root Riots or similar will improve your results marginally. A clone is an exact genetic copy of the mother so it should grow pretty much the same, although in a different environment different genes will be expressed making it grow slightly differently.

Seeds, although they take longer to mature and are more difficult to cultivate, have a taproot so they should be a little more vigorous in theory.

As for books, available freely off the internet in ebook form is Robert Clarke's Marijuana Botany. This is probably the most extensive, scientifically written, credible book on the subject in existence and I and anyone serious about growing who knows anything about the subject would strongly recommend it. It's VERY useful and VERY well written. If anyone's interested, just type in Robert Clarke Marijuana Botany into Google and you'll find it easily.

 

[Greenstar420]

Yea pretty much no reason though not to have humidistat in your growroom, I have a digital and a spring powered one. You are right though, I did some reading in the marijuana horticulture grow book and it says 60-70% RH for veg and best for bloom is 40-60% RH. I still say 75% is way to high especially in bloom, unless you want mold.

 

[Artificial Emotion]

^ I agree 75% is too high for bloom personally, only because of mould. I personally aim for 50% in bloom. Any lower and it would affect the growth of the plant and attract other pests like spider mites.

 

[Arobskittle]

Repotted the G13, roots were EVERYwhere, figured it might need a bigger pots, fucked up transplanting the sour diesel, I dont think it will make it this year ( had a little bit of roots, but the main tap root got torn when the soil fell out of the pot
Got a new purple Kush today, much healthier than the other plant, hopefully I can atleast get these 4 plants to work out.
If the sour diesel doesn't start picking up here (cause I tore the roots), I might just toss it, Im so pissed at myself for fucking that up, ugh.

Think I may just start sticking to seedlings...as they seem to do alot better than clones for me...

trimming the taproot can be beneficial to the root system as a whole. It redistributes the growth hormones similar to topping a plant.

 

[Wise420]

trimming the taproot can be beneficial to the root system as a whole. It redistributes the growth hormones similar to topping a plant.

Gotta disagree with this. Where did you hear/read that arob?

I remember seeing a video where the grower recommended cutting the bottom of the root ball during transplant to encorage the root's to spread out into their new medium. After discussing this between long time growers on a forum I use we all agreed that it was complete shit and obviously cutting ANY root's will only cause stress.

I'll add this same grower was adivising "when to harvest" and mentioned harvesting when 75% of the hair's turned amber/brown.

So I gotta say trimming the main tap root will only stress your plant and put you back weeks in growth IMO.

 

[Wise420]

Regarding humidity during bloom. If humidity levels, or heat levels are to high in flowering you'll get whispy, airy buds in my experience.

 

[Prelude2TragedyII]

Only been a day, but the sour diesel didn't start to wilt or anything, Im guessing it'll just be a few weeks behind.
The G13 & Purple Kush both are starting to branch off(took long enough),
Theres just alot of new growth inbetween shade leaves...

Also, So, Curious, Anyone know why my Northern Lights plant has purple stem droopy leaves (only one of them)
No other plants in my closet have any purple other than Purple Kush, and G13.

Plants are looking good, Im glad I topped my plants, they were pretty tall (10 inches), but I've got 6 feet of head room, thinking about going to 18 inches.
(I think that'll be 9weeks of veg)(2 more weeks or so)
Kinda curious, how wide will two plants be if I veg them to 16-18 inches (after/during they flower), 2 ft wide? 3 ft wide?

My current grow room temp is 73.7 degrees, and 49% humidity.

(Also, if I find these clones turn into a problem, can I just keep them under for HPS for 12 hours, and then when the plants that are flowering need dark time, just move the clones under some T8's, or should I just flower them all at the same time and get what I get.

 

[Artificial Emotion]

Gotta disagree with this. Where did you hear/read that arob?

I remember seeing a video where the grower recommended cutting the bottom of the root ball during transplant to encorage the root's to spread out into their new medium. After discussing this between long time growers on a forum I use we all agreed that it was complete shit and obviously cutting ANY root's will only cause stress.

I'll add this same grower was adivising "when to harvest" ann mentioned harvesting when 75% of the hair's turned amber/brown.
shoot tips, but So I gotta say trimming the main tap root will only stress your plant and put you back weeks in growth IMO.

Crazy stoner ideas, hey?

I thought it was BS but didn't want to get into a pointless argument. Yes it's true the root tips work in much the same way, but severing them won't produce the same result as topping.

(Also, if I find these clones turn into a problem, can I just keep them under for HPS for 12 hours, and then when the plants that are flowering need dark time, just move the clones under some T8's, or should I just flower them all at the same time and get what I get.

I would keep them under the T8s rather than the HPS light. If you've got the HPS down at a level used to flower plants, the light intensity will be too high for rooting/just-rooted clones IMO.

 

[Prelude2TragedyII]

This would be 3 weeks after the clones have been transplanted.

 

[Artificial Emotion]

This would be 3 weeks after the clones have been transplanted.

I beg your pardon. I would actually put them under a MH or under the HPS if you don't have this. They don't need be under linear fluoros for more than a week or two after rooting IMO.

Have you ever considered trying out an aeroponic EZ cloner by the way mate? A lot of peeps growing in soil/coco use these as they're not only constrained to hydroponic growing. They're damn useful since you can put them in cloner, forget about them and within the week they will have put down healthy roots vigorously. They really make cloning very easy and allow lots of clones to be made in a very tight space. The 12 plant module EZ cloner retails at quite a reasonable price if you know where to look so I'd strongly recommend it. You can even build one yourself quite easily for very little money using readily available parts you can get from any major hydroponic outlet.

 

[Arobskittle]

Gotta disagree with this. Where did you hear/read that arob?

I remember seeing a video where the grower recommended cutting the bottom of the root ball during transplant to encorage the root's to spread out into their new medium. After discussing this between long time growers on a forum I use we all agreed that it was complete shit and obviously cutting ANY root's will only cause stress.

I'll add this same grower was adivising "when to harvest" and mentioned harvesting when 75% of the hair's turned amber/brown.

So I gotta say trimming the main tap root will only stress your plant and put you back weeks in growth IMO.

if you trim the one taproot the plant will not be adversely affected but IT WILL redistribute the auxins and cytokinines resulting in a branchng root system...... its a plant physiological fact

BIOLOGY OF ROOT GROWTH

A plant's root system functions to conduct water and nutrients, move water and minerals and store food (Campbell, 1989).
Most trees have a taproot system, consisting of one large, vertical root (taproot) which produces many smaller secondary roots (lateral roots). The first taproot develops directly from the root meristem of the seed embryo. Lateral roots on the other hand, develop from the deep-seated outer layer of the stele, also known as the pericycle. Three branches of lateral roots may develop off of the tap root. The new branch is usually a long root that becomes a part of the permanent woody root system. The second type of lateral roots are short roots. The final type of lateral roots are developed when short roots convert to long roots. Following an injury to the woody long root tip, a branch results and usually two more long root tips follows. Injury can also occur to the non-woody lateral roots. Forking of replacement lateral roots follow (Kozlowski and Pallardy, 1997). Severed roots decompose and the ends will form calluses. Bud-like root primordia may develop near these callous tips (May, 1984). In general, injury to the root system (such as that from root pruning) leads to the formation of additional lateral roots and an a well developed root system.

Root fibrosity is a term used by nursery managers to refer to the extensive, multi-branched tree roots spread out under the soil surface. The attributes of a fibrous root system are important to a young, transplanted seedling's establishment and survival. Root fibrosity gives the tree extensive exposure to soil water and minerals and also helps to anchor it in place (Campbell, 1989). In addition, trees with a fibrous root system are able to withstand drought better than shallow, sparsely branched root systems (Kozlowski and Pallardy, 1997).

UNDERCUTTING EFFECTS ON ROOTS

The regeneration of roots following an undercutting is important to transplanted tree's survival, establishment and growth. Numerous studies have shown that a compact, fibrous root system result from undercutting (Racey and Racey, 1988). In addition, the denser, more fibrous root system results in a better balanced tree at the time of lifting.

Root pruning has been shown to increase both the amount of root surface area and the percentage of the total root system. A heavily branched root system in trees can be produced by multiple undercuttings the tap root (Racey and Racey, 1988).
Close examination of undercut roots revels that many small roots will regenerate from each severed one. Such trees, because of their greater compactness of the root system, are easier to lift and transplant (Stoeckeler and Jones, 1957). Over time, however, some of the small replacement roots may begin to deteriorate. Lifting the trees when the number of replacement roots is the highest will maximize the total root surface area and hence survival (Watson and Sydnor, 1987).
Root quality and vigor were shown to increase with undercutting of loblolly pine (Wisniewski et al, 1991). New lateral root production was shown to occur in red oak after multiple undercuttings (Harmer and Walder, 1994).
Undercutting was shown to be very effective in fine root production of black walnut (Williams, 1972), Douglas fir (Tanaka et al, 1974), and yellow poplar (Thor, 1965).

Decapitation of the primary roots of Pisum sativum L. resulted in a significant increase in the initiation of lateral root primordia within 12 h of the surgical treatment. Although this increase occurred both in the light and in the dark, lateral root initiation and development was much more rapid in the dark. The formation of lateral root primordia was accompanied by increased levels of endogenous cytokinins suggesting that newly formed root primordia start producing cytokinins very soon after being initiated. The significance of the present results in terms of possible sites of synthesis in vegetative tissue is discussed

 

[Prelude2TragedyII]

Well, the sour diesel seems to be coming through fine, its pushing out alot of side leaves, along with the rest of these little clones, they are all starting to slowly take off now. Seems the plant isn't secured into the ground though (its a bit loose) but the plant isnt showing signs of dying, or much stress.

And yeah, I've bought all these clones.
I've cloned my own plants about 10 times, never had one die, or come out fucked up...(accidently cloned a male once before it sexed though, haha)
Yeah, idk whats up with the place I bought my clones before, I just found a new shop that sells clones, bought another purple kush, already took off faster than the other PK.

The Afghan Kush finally started putting out nodes directly next to eachother, dont know what the heck happened that made it grow nodes more than an inch apart on one side of the plant, but its doing good now, leaves are enormous.

Blah, gotta go sit and trim for another 6 hours, Ill post up later tonight with some pics hopefully.

This whole root thing is a bit odd, I guess I can continue to take pics of the SD and see how it goes.


AE, Ive got all of my plants under 600 watt MH, as of right now, i've got 3 plants ready , mature ,to flower, (but only 11 inches tall)
The clones I got are still maybe 6-8 inches, I was saying, if by the time I start to Flower the 3 plants that ARE mature, would I be able to keep these Clones that are behind , under the HPS for 12 hours, while the Larger plants are flowering, and put the clones under some T8's to keep them from flowering until they are the size I want them, if that makes sense.

Also, alot of the lower branches on both of my Northern Lights I've already Super Cropped (rolled em in my fingers until I heard it crush), they all have fat stems down there now, are they still worth cutting off , or would that fattened stem cause problems for a cutting that I want to root