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Cocaine (Le Junk) Making Freebase Cocaine... The Correct Procedure!

Le Junk

Bluelighter
Joined
Feb 8, 2004
Messages
2,279
The correct method for making 100% pure freebase cocaine is to dissolve 1 gram of adulterated cocaine in 40 ml.s of water in either a large glass beaker or glass mason jar. Whatever you decide on, just make sure it's glass.

If any remains undissolved, it's not cocaine, so we need to get it out of there before wasting any time on that crap. Therefore, if any does remain undissolved, simply filter it into a seperate glass container via a standard round cofee filter and plastic funnel. Once all of the liquid has drained thru, add 20 more ml.s of water thru the same filter to gather any cocaine water than may have permiated the filter paper. Our final objective is to have a total of 60 ml.s of water per every one gram of cocaine. In other words, if all of your original cocaine dissolved completely in the original 40 ml.s, then simply add 20 more ml.s of fresh water to that and move on........

In a seperate beaker or shotglass, add 20 ml.s of 10% ammonia (Ace Hardware brand) to 20 ml.s of distilled water. Stir thoroughly. Your ammonia must be unscented and contain absolutely nothing but ammonia and water. It's extremely difficult to find, and the only place I could find it was Ace Hardware. I know this because I first looked at Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, all grocery stores and pharmacies. I'm just saving you the trouble, so go to Ace Hardware. The tall thin white bottle will say "Ammonia 10%". That's the one you'll be needing......

Now this next part is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT! Using a glass eye dropper, slowly add exactly 1 ml. of the ammonia solution to the dissolved cocaine water. A cloudy bright white precipitate will form with each and every drop. Between each 1 ml. added, stir for 2-3 minutes each time. Now, there's a HUGE reason for doing it this slowly, so don't just go and percipitate all of the freebase out in one big shot, okay? With each 1 ml. of the ammonia soln., stir for 2-3 minutes each time, preferably with a glass stir rod. Try extremely hard to not touch any part of the glass container with the stir rod while stirring. You'll understand why later. After about 4-5 ml.s and 2-3 minutes between each ml. added, an extremely nasty and unpleasant looking goo will start to form on your stir rod. This is not cocaine freebase, but instead one of the easier forming bases like amphetamine etc. Continue slowly adding the 1 ml. of ammonia soln. and keep checking the stir rod after the 3 minute stirring period. The goo will continue to grow on the stir rod as all of the other freebases other than cocaine continue to precipitate out first. After awhile, you'll finally start seeing the final base, cocaine, start forming on the stir rod as a bleach white, rock hard substance. Once this happens, pour the entire contents of the water/cocaine mixture into another fresh glass beaker or mason jar, because all that is left to form now will be the last and final base, cocaine! In addition, now clean off the goo from the stir rod containing all the other bases, or junk, and make sure it's clean for the last and final stage of the process.

Continue adding the ammonia soln. to the cocaine/water mixture until no more white percipitate forms with the addition of more ammonia soln. Once all of the 100% pure cocaine freebase is completely done precipitating, pour the contents into a filter and let drain thoroughly. One drained, open the filter and pour the freebase into a glass beaker with a small amount (20 ml.s per gram) of plain fresh water in it. Stir completely to completely rinse off all of the ammonia soln. and then once again pour into a filter. Once drained and while still in the filter, pour a little more fresh water over the now pure cocaine freebase to wash away any final traces of ammonia.

Remove the filter paper containing the pure cocaine freebase and place the filter paper still containing the freebase inside between a few paper towels, press firmly on the clump portion to absorb any additional moisture and then while still in the filter paper, blow dry until dry to the touch. Carefully open over a ceramic plate and let all of the freebase fall out onto it. Let air dry for as long as it takes to become completely dry (especially if your planning on reconverting it back to 100% pure cocaine hydrochloride). This could be as long as overnight.

Make sure you weigh your adulterated coke beforehand, and then once again after the pure freebase dries. Do your calculation to determine the EXACT purity of the crap you were originally sold. Call your dealer and tell him to fuck off that it's only 26%, and then find a new dealer.

Now, either smoke an entirely different freebase than anything you've ever smoked before, or turn the freebase back into your very first batch of nearly pure cocaine hydrochloride. Enjoy!

Using the bi-carb method is an absolute ghetto method way of making cocaine/amphetamine/ephedrine/psuedoephedrine freebase mix, nothing more. There should never be heat involved in the making of cocaine freebase.

I'll attach a picture of the final product when performed with this exact method after recrystallizing it into 100% pure cocaine hydrochloride. Now tell me that ain't one sweet ass lookin' pile of blow!

Le Junk...at your service
 

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Technically he is right, although as always, he needs to work on wording. Good post though man. Have not seen you for a while. Good to see you doing ok.
 
On your knees everybody, and hail LeJunk "coco-mambo" on the rebound. Peace!

So you can actually tell the amph freebase from the coke freebase, as in one is a goo and the other is a crystal, correct?

And tell us how to resalt it, dissolve in ether or preferably acetone, add 30% muriatric drops until no more crystals form, evaporate?
 
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Interesting, never heard of this style.
To make sure I got this right,
1.the dope/water is in a big jar, I add ammonia/water mix 1ml at a time.
2.While stirring, I notice goo forming on the stirrer, but I wait until I see white hard-stuff on the stirrer?
3.Then, when I see white hard-stuff on the stirrer, I poor the remaining dope/water/ammonia into a new jar and filter it?
4. Then I rinse and let dry?
 
onceuponatime said:
Interesting, never heard of this style.
To make sure I got this right,
1.the dope/water is in a big jar, I add ammonia/water mix 1ml at a time.
2.While stirring, I notice goo forming on the stirrer, but I wait until I see white hard-stuff on the stirrer?
3.Then, when I see white hard-stuff on the stirrer, I poor the remaining dope/water/ammonia into a new jar and filter it?
4. Then I rinse and let dry?

Everything is correct except #3. Once your freebase starts forming on the stir rod, you stop and transfer all the contents into a clean glass container. this is where the fun actually just begins. Once you've transfered, then you continue to add the ammonia soln. until no more white peripitate forms from the addition of anymore ammonia. That's when your really done. That's when you filter and go on about drying out the freebase.

Other than that, your good to go! ;)

Le Junk =D
 
so when I change to the new container, and continue adding ammonia, I will see milky precip develop?
Will there be goo, or small rocks forming, or what?
I guess I'm asking, what will I be filtering out, what will it look like?
 
Here's the good lookin' goo! Yes, normally you would snort this..............
 

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thanks again.
I'm used to the ammonia+heat method, so this cold method sounds interesting, as it leaves no meth/amph freebase.
Just wanna be sure, once I'm adding the final ammonia, I'll be seeing goo forming?

also, sometimes when I add ammonia to the dope in a spoon, it turns into goo even before I add heat and make the oil.
Was this goo the end result of your process?
 
onceuponatime said:
so when I change to the new container, and continue adding ammonia, I will see milky precip develop?
Will there be goo, or small rocks forming, or what?
I guess I'm asking, what will I be filtering out, what will it look like?

Actually, milky percipitate will begin forming upon the very first ml. added in the very beginning. However, that milky percipitate in the beginning will be the crap your trying to rid of. Nothing will look different when the goo is done and the actual cocaine freebase starts forming thus at that time, switching containers.

The reason for switching containers is that once the actual cocaine freebase starts forming, you don't want it possibly tainted by anything that formed previously that wasn't cocaine freebase. That is why it's also extremely important you do not ever touch the edges of the glass while the goo is forming. Once you accidentely free up any of the goo, it will not reattach itself to the glass, thus ultimately ending up in your real cocaine freebase. So just don't touch the glass with the stir rod, okay?

Once you've changed containers and it's only cocaine freebase left to form, just keep adding as much ammonia soln. as needed until precipitation is complete. The result will be a mixture of rocks and flakes.

Enjoy!

Le Junk ;)
 
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so if you started with say 3.5gm of typical 30% blow, would you end up with a bunch of little pebbles, or a few chunks, a big chunk. or what?
 
onceuponatime said:
so if you started with say 3.5gm of typical 30% blow, would you end up with a bunch of little pebbles, or a few chunks, a big chunk. or what?

Well, if there's actually real coke in it to begin with, your final freebase result should look just like this:
 

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glad ya put in a pic, cause that doesnt look like what most would expect "rock" to look like.
 
onceuponatime said:
glad ya put in a pic, cause that doesnt look like what most would expect "rock" to look like.

Probably an accurate statement. The only difference with the way this looks, vs. the yellowish bi-carb crack, is that this is actually 100% pure cocaine freebase. Very rarely seen...........ever! ;)

Le Junk :)
 
onceuponatime said:
so if you started with say 3.5gm of typical 30% blow, would you end up with a bunch of little pebbles, or a few chunks, a big chunk. or what?

Pretty much something like this:
 

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If you don't mind Lejunk I'll paste a little correction on the information here too:
There's still the confusion that I'll try once more correct: (no offense)

The reason people state that bicarbonate method is "ghetto version" of freebasing is because of the method, not because of the chemicals used.

People making freebase/crack with sodium bicarbonate generally make it by mixing bicarbonate powder with coke in spoon/glass and after that add the water.
Or they just add the bicarb. with coke+water in some ratio thought beforehand (ie. 3:1). If you add too much bicarbonate you can contaminate the final product with it. Or you just basify the other crap too.

The problem with this method versus the ammonia method is that one might add too much bicarbonate (or even too small amount) depending on the cocaine's purity. The correct method would be making it the same way as with ammonia: precipitating;

mixing the coke with small amount of water, then adding bicarbonate slowly until the coke starts to precipitate out of the water. Or the other junk before, if there exists such as lejunk mentions. With this method you can get the same results as with ammonia method. There's also a risk with ammonia to overshoot the pH, which destroys the cocaine alkaloid. With sodium bicarbonate such problem can't occur.

If one wants to, he can also extract this with ether, evaporate and perform water wash.

There just isn't any other reason or chemical explanation (or please provide me one) why ammonia would be better. Ammonia is no worse either.

The goo seen on the picture actually isn't any kind of amphetamine freebase, as the author of the picture states. Instead the author suspected that it is some sort of plant crap carried along the cocaine manufacturing process.
If I remember correctly, the starting material was already quite pure in percentages (60 ?).
If you aren't chemistry experienced, the final material isn't even 95%. Pure it is though.
To make that, one needs experience in the methods even though this process is just adding the ammonia.
 
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Actually, in terms of chemistry, ammonia is much better . Bicarbonate is ok, and has a much higher safety margin in the 2 crucial areas (toxicity and flammability when combined especially, with the hot method of ether), but ammonia is much more efficient. I have never converted this Cold way, but in terms of chemistry it appears perfect for the need.

Now, you are right that Bicarbonate is more than ok, and for most it is going to be the only method they opt for in terms of both safety and feasability, but if you want most bang, go with this way.
 
I don't contradict, but could you give any information backing up your argument?

The reason LeJunk apparently suggests the cold way to go is heating speeds up the chemical reaction so you couldn't basify it slowly enough.
 
Sigh...haha, I knew at least one would ask, but hey, that is the point here right?

I will indeed, but give me a day or two because I have just moved here and do not have my papers and physical files here yet. I will dig for it online and give it to you as soon as possible. Please pm me if this thread closes, and I have no posted it within 2 days.
 
Well, have not found the references yet but it is like this. I will not go all technical and defeat the purpose,etc., but in using Bicarbonate (baking soda) you do efficiently eliminate the acidic ion but not the acidic by product which is sodium chloride (table salt). It is not bad for you per se although it is not only a much less pure product in terms of sodium chl. but much higher concentrations of carbon dioxide , it is also less efficient at disassociating the ion so that you will not net as much coke anyway. I will keep looking tomorrow for a sicentific paper to send to you, or perhaps post here.
 
I also want to add that the hot method is much more efficient (because of polar versus non-polar and solubility) but also that much more dangerous. Of the 3 methods, this cold method is the safest and nearly efficient enough to make it worth it.
 
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