Cocaine (Le Junk) Making Freebase Cocaine... The Correct Procedure!

[aussie101]

it is impossible to use "ammonia". Ammonia is a gas at room temp, pungent, caustic and hazardous. What are you really using?

 

[HeavyHanded]

it is impossible to use "ammonia". Ammonia is a gas at room temp, pungent, caustic and hazardous. What are you really using?

Ho-Lee Shit. From the very first post of the thread you're posting in - From THE MAN Le Junk Hisself, unless there's some new revelation I'm unaware of, I thought this was a very solid tek...

...."The correct method for making 100% pure freebase cocaine is to dissolve 1 gram of adulterated cocaine in 40 ml.s of water in either a large glass beaker or glass mason jar. Whatever you decide on, just make sure it's glass.

If any remains undissolved, it's not cocaine, so we need to get it out of there before wasting any time on that crap. Therefore, if any does remain undissolved, simply filter it into a seperate glass container via a standard round cofee filter and plastic funnel. Once all of the liquid has drained thru, add 20 more ml.s of water thru the same filter to gather any cocaine water than may have permiated the filter paper. Our final objective is to have a total of 60 ml.s of water per every one gram of cocaine. In other words, if all of your original cocaine dissolved completely in the original 40 ml.s, then simply add 20 more ml.s of fresh water to that and move on........

In a seperate beaker or shotglass, add 20 ml.s of 10% ammonia (Ace Hardware brand) to 20 ml.s of distilled water. Stir thoroughly. Your ammonia must be unscented and contain absolutely nothing but ammonia and water. It's extremely difficult to find, and the only place I could find it was Ace Hardware. I know this because I first looked at Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, all grocery stores and pharmacies. I'm just saving you the trouble, so go to Ace Hardware. The tall thin white bottle will say "Ammonia 10%". That's the one you'll be needing......"

 

[aussie101]

well 10% ammonia is hardly pure ammonia is it. Pure ammonia is used to make meth ime

Rookies 8)

 

[HeavyHanded]

Rookies...Right, except I was very specific in saying "le junk's ammonia method" and even quoted THE OP. Again, the whole basis of this thread we are both posting in. If you are not going to help or ask a Q, why are you clogging up this thread?

Anyway, I really would like a little input if anyone could provide me with relevant info. Sorry for the extra copy and paste, but my question keeps getting buried...
1. First, it seemed I had a good deal more in my filter JUST prior to the final water wash. Is this typical? And if so,
2. could I in the future just be patient and let the shit dry for like a week or even two?
3. Would I still have to worry about ammonia in my final product if so?
4. l also I realize I literally just made the shit and it needs to dry, but it is not rock like AT ALL. It's very soft and flaky. Is this usual? Seems weird for base...

 

[aussie101]

Look dickhead i have made both. And pure ammonia is dangerous. Any body talking about using "ammonia" to make anything should get their facts straight before using the chemical. It is dangerous and irresponsible to talk about using "ammonia" with anything without knowing that using 100% pure anhydrous ammonia is dangerous.

Thanks for your opinion.

 

[HeavyHanded]

Look dickhead i have made both. And pure ammonia is dangerous. Any body talking about using "ammonia" to make anything should get their facts straight before using the chemical. It is dangerous and irresponsible to talk about using "ammonia" with anything without knowing that using 100% pure anhydrous ammonia is dangerous.

Thanks for your opinion.

Hey Mods, can somebody please set this guy straight? Why do my legitimate questions have to keep getting buried below this nonsense? I will refrain from calling him a Fucktard or anything of the like because names like that and dickhead can be very hurtful.

FOR THE RECORD. I am responding to and asking questions about the OPS method listed in the very first post of this thread. The same method that calls for Ace hardware brand ammonia. I know I'll prly have mutated genes from using something so dangerous, but that's what THE MAN le junk, as well as THIS THREAD WE ARE POSTING IN calls for...
God I hate to keep copy and pasting my questions but it seems there is an individual in this thread intent on derailing discussion with flames and irrelevant responses...

So again, I'm sorry if I come off as a dick to anyone but the idiot intent on derailing this thread, but I really would like to hear what anyone with exp using this tek has to say. Here's the Q's one more time (sorry, I didn't mean to be so thoroughly derailed by stupidity)
1. First, it seemed I had a good deal more in my filter JUST prior to the final water wash. Is this typical? And if so,
2. could I in the future just be patient and let the shit dry for like a week or even two?
3. Would I still have to worry about ammonia in my final product if so?
4. l also I realize I literally just made the shit and it needs to dry, but it is not rock like AT ALL. It's very soft and flaky. Is this usual? Seems weird for base..

PS I'm done responding to and helping aussie101 to derail this thread. I love how he continues to ignore the fact that only one type of Ace ammonia has ever been mentioned in this thread, and goes back to the first post. I'm sorry I fell for his bait in the first place. Don't feed the trolls!I would actually like to hear from any other Bluelighter that can offer me insight.

 

[aussie101]

I am not intent on derailing this thread. It simply needs to be more specific. 10% ammonia is very different to just ammonia. Period.

 

[laugh]

well 10% ammonia is hardly pure ammonia is it. Pure ammonia is used to make meth ime

Rookies 8)

Lol wookie

 

[Cornishman]

HeavyHanded, are you following LJ's instructions down to a T?

I don't understand how this could happen.
Maybe your 'coke' is poor quality?

Fwiw I wouldn't bother wasting my time trying to make base from half a gramme.

It's too small an amount to work with, and if you're using LJ's method you need to use at least an 8 ball imo.

Since you're gonna be throwing away a gramme or so. Even on a good day.

 

[sekio]

aussie101 is corredct, aqueous ammonia, or ammonium hydroxide (NH4OH), is not the same thing as pure, gaseous ammonia. (NH3). Gaseous, or anhydrous ammonia is used in Birch dissolving-metal reductions, with sodium or lithium, and also for agricultural usage.

One can manufacture your very own aqueous ammonia by heating a mixture of an ammonium salt (e.g. ammonium chloride or carbonate) and an alkali, like calcium oxide (quicklime) or sodium/potassium hydroxide, and carefully dissolving the gas that is liberated into cold distilled water. Be careful - ammonia gas is toxic and an irritant, in larger quantitites. Do it outside, or in a fume hood.

1. First, it seemed I had a good deal more in my filter JUST prior to the final water wash. Is this typical? And if so,

First off, the freebase is probably still wet with water (& water is very dense), and since you've quickly precipitated it out it will be a fine, fluffy, high surface area microcrystal. It may "seem" you have more, but it is pretty much physically impossible to get more than 100% recovery by weight on cocaine. (less than about 80% if you use HCl salt)

2. could I in the future just be patient and let the shit dry for like a week or even two?

Probably not a good idea - wet cocaine likes to decompose into non-psychoactive compounds like benzoylecognine and benzoic acid. It would be best to gently dry it with a heat lamp or something - but be careful not to melt it. Cocaine freebase melts at 98 degrees C - just below boiling water. Drying it over silica gel or in a vaccuum dessicator would work too if you have access to those.

Would I have to worry about ammonia in my final product?

pour a little more fresh water over the now pure cocaine freebase to wash away any final traces of ammonia.

Ammonia boils at -33C, ammonium hydroxide boils at 25 C. It is very unlikely.

4. l also I realize I literally just made the shit and it needs to dry, but it is not rock like AT ALL. It's very soft and flaky. Is this usual? Seems weird for base..

See answer to #1. Similar to how MDMA "moon rocks" are made, "crack rocks" are generally fused clumps of amorphous cocaine made from the cocaine freebase clumping tohether and fusing under heat (usualy being cooked on a stove top). It's like a snowball. What you have is more like snow - very tiny fine crystals of freebase. If you had a microscope, you could take a look at them.

Real "authentic" crystals, the transparent kind with regular structures, are usually grown by starting with a solution of a pure compound in a solvent it's only poorly soluble in, getting it really concentrated & hot, and waiting a long time for it to cool very slowly.

 

[aussie101]

^ this.

Sorry if i seemed to have been rude or facetious. I have just had a bit to drink tonight and it pisses me off when people who don't know proper chemistry make silly comments that could be interpreted in the wrong way resulting in injury or death.

 

[shreddedlettuce]

Ok cool.....moving on... %)

 

[HeavyHanded]

@aussie, sorry for any misunderstandings

@Cornishman, crappy product is always possible, but when I mixed the Coke HCl with water it almost all dissolved, only a teensy bit was left on the bottom, so don't think it's heavily cut. Plus I've snorted some before and it was good. : )

@Sekio, thank you so much for you input. That is exactly what I'm looking for.

Ammonia boils at -33C, ammonium hydroxide boils at 25 C. It is very unlikely.

So are you saying the final water wash step is unnecessary?

Also what I meant about having more before the wash was this - After I transferred glasses and cleaned the glass stir rod (bright white had just started to appear on the gunk) tons of tiny flakes precipitated out with each drop. They never clumped together. (Does this part sound right?) So when no more would precip out, I collected them, and had a nice little pile that I then rinsed with a small amount of water, then strained the resulting solution through a coffee filter. What I was left with was a much smaller pile then before I did the last rinse.

 

[aussie101]

@aussie, sorry for any misunderstandings

No worries mate.

 

[walterdini]

I know this thread is about the "correct" way, but my Q is about making base with baking soda

Whenever I try to do this, I get a yellow oily substance floating ontop of the solution that I assume is freebase coke. I've tried to siphon off and dry with limited success, and trying to boil off all the water doesn't work either..

I've found the best way for me to get dry-ish rocks is by using about .5g on tinfoil "bowls" w/ minimal water and bicarb. I can easily boil off the solution and am left with freebase dried all over the foil. But I can't really form a rock hard chunck like I've seen on the street

This also means I'm left smoking off tin foil and inhaling all that nastyness. How can I make rock hard chunks using bicarb? I know its possible b/c I've bought crack b4 that was made with bicarb aand was rock hard. Is there some trick involved, or is another ingredient added to get it so hard?

I wanna smoke out of glass instead of foil but can't till I figure out how to form hard rocks in glass vessels. And it needs to be via bicarb b/c I cannot have ammonia around for various reasons.

I'm pretty sure there is something else involved beyond just drying or using a press... Neither of which I can do anyway due to my situation

Thanks

 

[HeavyHanded]

So in case anyone cares, or in case this is helpful to anyone, the flakes I pulled out of the ammonia/coke/water solution, and let dry for 24 hours (no heat lamp available to me), worked just fine. I smoked em out of a bong stem with some chore in it (sans bong). I never got a bellringer, but I was using very small amounts, as this was my first experiment with smoking it.

The effects I did get were VERY similar to insufflating a bunch of lines , except without the overly ampy/speedy/paranoid characteristics of the high. It also lasted a bit shorter between hits (and diminishingly so) then between lines would. However, I did enjoy much the same buzz as snorting, and will actually be able to breathe out of my nose tomorrow, which was the whole point of me going this route to begin with. I've abused my nose( over the past 10 years) to the point where snorting even one or two lines would cause my nose to be completely clogged for the next couple days, and thoroughly messed up for the next 3-6 weeks. And that is not an exaggeration.

So, Le Junk, and everyone else that contributed to this thread, THANK YOU for reducing the harm done to my sinuses.... and my lungs too I guess, as now I doubt I'll ever try the bicarb method. Seriously though, thank you fellow BL'ers.

 

[sekio]

What I was left with was a much smaller pile then before I did the last rinse.

There's probably some water-soluble cut that is poorly soluble in alkaline environment in your coke, like benzocaine. You could try washing with cold brine at the end, or skip that step entirely. Or it could be ammonium chloride you've formed from neutralising the HCl salt.

So are you saying the final water wash step is unnecessary?

Cocaine freebase is basically insoluble in water. It's probably not strictly neccesary if you dry it well, but it won't hurt the purity of your stuff. Just make sure the water you're washing it with is not acidic. If you want to maximise recovery, you should avoid washes and just warm your precipitate gently to dry it.

Whenever I try to do this, I get a yellow oily substance floating ontop of the solution that I assume is freebase coke.

Freebase cocaine is a solid below 100C - so if you see a yellow oil it is probably not pure cocaine (or you're cooking it too hot). It's likely some sort of other cut that forms a salt. Amphetamines are oils in their freebase forms, so are cuts like MDPV.
If your cocaine does not form "rocks" when you add a small amount of water and bicarbonate, heat it, and then let it cool back down, it is probably cut to shit.
If you were to get little white "flakes" precipitated out, you could scrape them together and warm them on a steam bath to melt them into a single chunk.

There should actually be no difference in purity of cocaine made with ammonia, and that made with bicarbonate. The alkali you use doesn't have any effect on the final product.
Either way, if you can't get a precipitarte to form, you need to get new blow.

 

[HeavyHanded]

There's probably some water-soluble cut that is poorly soluble in alkaline environment in your coke, like benzocaine. You could try washing with cold brine at the end, or skip that step entirely. Or it could be ammonium chloride you've formed from neutralising the HCl salt.



Cocaine freebase is basically insoluble in water. It's probably not strictly neccesary if you dry it well, but it won't hurt the purity of your stuff. Just make sure the water you're washing it with is not acidic. If you want to maximise recovery, you should avoid washes and just warm your precipitate gently to dry it.



Freebase cocaine is a solid below 100C - so if you see a yellow oil it is probably not pure cocaine (or you're cooking it too hot). It's likely some sort of other cut that forms a salt. Amphetamines are oils in their freebase forms, so are cuts like MDPV.
If your cocaine does not form "rocks" when you add a small amount of water and bicarbonate, heat it, and then let it cool back down, it is probably cut to shit.
If you were to get little white "flakes" precipitated out, you could scrape them together and warm them on a steam bath to melt them into a single chunk.

There should actually be no difference in purity of cocaine made with ammonia, and that made with bicarbonate. The alkali you use doesn't have any effect on the final product.
Either way, if you can't get a precipitarte to form, you need to get new blow.

Holy shit. What incredible info to have. I even learned something about my own process from your answer to someone else. You, sir, are a hero. Thank you so much for your time and consideration.

In regards to this - If you want to maximise recovery, you should avoid washes and just warm your precipitate gently to dry it.

Does it matter if it's dry if I'm smoking it? Would the flame from smoking it just heat the moisture out anyway?

 

[sekio]

It's best to dry it because (in theory) cocaine can break down in the presence of water to inactive compounds. Especially if strongly heated, or if it's in a strong acid/base situation.

As cocaine freebase is not water soluble, even though your final wash might rinse away *something*, it's not likely it's a lot of cocaine.

 

[HeavyHanded]

It's best to dry it because (in theory) cocaine can break down in the presence of water to inactive compounds. Especially if strongly heated, or if it's in a strong acid/base situation.

As cocaine freebase is not water soluble, even though your final wash might rinse away *something*, it's not likely it's a lot of cocaine.

I understand and I thank you for your input. It's people like you that make BL the single best forum out there for information and harm reduction.