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    turning freebase/crack into powder cocaine....the procedure! 
    #1
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    EDITED: 9/2/07

    I had mistakingly left out the use of ethanol, which is a key component in this procedure. I apologize to anyone that may have had less than perfect results. Please read these directions carefully as they have now been corrected to perfect the outcome.

    One final note. I would strongly recommend making crack/freebase via the 1:1 ammonia route as I've described in an entirely seperate thread. Making freebase the way I've outlined in that thread will produce 100% pure, freebase cocaine, nothing more. Making freebase, or purchasing freebase made via baking soda, water and heat, better known as the bi-carb method, will produce freebase cocaine/amphetamine/ephedrine and whatever else was in there in the first place. The choice is yours.....either A. 100% pure cocaine freebase, or B. 100% pure cocaine/amphetamine/ephedrine freebase? I'd personally choose A!


    A/B EXTRACTION:


    This is the entire procedure used to turn crack/freebase cocaine into a snortable powder cocaine, better known as cocaine hydrochoride. The procedure itself is called an A/B extraction, but the results are all you'll really be interested in. And the results are simply sooooo good!

    I will be outlining this procedure as though you already have the freebase cocaine. In addition, I'll also be using 1 gram of freebase cocaine as the control for this procedure.

    Okay, first you'll need to break down the freebase into as fine a powder as possible. Let it completely air dry until it's as entirely dry as powdered cocaine. It should be white and not yellow in color when dry. If it's still yellow, then we'll be getting rid of that as well. Remember, cocaine is white and not yellow. Yellow=bad, white=good.

    Secondly, we're going to need anhydrous acetone. You can easily turn hardware store acetone into anhydrous acetone with the simple process I've outlined below. To do this, you'll need to go to Home Depot or Lowes and get the following items: a 1 liter can of acetone, a bag of epsom salts, and a bottle of 31% muriatic acid.

    Now, heat some epsom salts on an aluminum foil covered baking sheet in the oven for 2 hours at 400 degrees F. After 2 hours of heating, the epsom salts have now been turned into anhydrous magnesium sulphate. Crazy huh?

    Now, take 10-20 grams of your greyish ash looking anhydrous magnesium sulphate and pour it directly into your can of hardware store acetone. Now, shake the can vigorously for a few minutes to circulate the magnesium sulphate and then let it settle for 24 hours. The magnesium sulphate will absorb all of the water and/or alcohol from the hardware store acetone and sink it to the bottom of the can where it shall remain forever.

    Therefore from now on, never pour from the can, instead use a glass eye dropper or glass pipette (glass straw) to reach down inside of the can to extract however much anhydrous acetone you'll be requiring. Always stay away from the bottom of the can. Once the can get's about half way down, discard and repeat the process with a fresh can of acetone. Always use glass hardware when using acetone. Acetone will melt plastic.

    Okay, ready? We'll use 1 gram of freebase for the conversion. If you use 2 grams, simply double all of the measurements we use and so on.

    NOTE: I won't mention this part again, so just remember to always cover your acetone filled beaker with something during every waiting period mentioned below. The reason being that since your acetone will now be free of water, you'll want to keep it that way by keeping moisture from the air out at all times. Okay? Let's go...............

    Put 10 ml.s of anhydrous acetone into a glass beaker. Add your 1 gram of freebase to the acetone and stir until it's entirely dissolved. Don't panic, we're gonna bring it right back. It's freakin' majic!

    With a medium flow filter paper placed inside of a plastic funnel for support, pour your 10 ml.s of dissolved freebase/acetone into it and let it funnel into an awaiting seperate beaker. This will assure a clear liquid and will rid of the yellowish, dirty tinted looking crap you got when it first dissolved. Once all of the freebase/acetone has filtered into the second beaker, add 10 more ml.s of fresh acetone into the same filter to obtain any remaining freebase stuck to the filter paper.

    You will now have 20 ml.s of acetone and dissolved freebase in 1 beaker. The liquid should be almost clear to mostly clear.

    Now, in a seperate beaker, create a solution of 2:1 ethanol (Everclear liquor 190 proof, available at any liquor store) to 31% muriatic acid (HCI). It doesn't matter how much you make total, just make sure that the mixture is 2 parts ethanol to 1 part HCI (31% muriatic acid). Stir the mixture thoroughly. In a seperate beaker, pour 10 ml.s of fresh acetone. Now, using a glass eye dropper, add exactly 20 drops of the 2:1 ethanol/HCI solution to the 10 ml.s of fresh acetone. Mix thoroughly. Now here comes the majic, simulataneously swirl both the acetone/dissolved freebase and the acetone/ethanol/HCI beakers and then all at once, pour the acetone/ethanol/HCI into the acetone/dissolved frrebase beaker. Bam, crystals will start foming immediately right before your eyes! Quickly cover the beaker now holding all of the ingredients and wait until crytallization looks to be complete. When that happens, carefully remove the cover and stir the mixture very well, making sure to really get the bottom of the beaker. Run the stir rod up the side of the beaker after stirring, if any new crystal growth forms, crystallization is not yet complete, so cover and let stand again for a half hour or so. Repeat again and if no more new crystals grow, then crystallization is now complete. Let the crystals completely settle on the bottom and the clear acetone is on left on top.

    Now, put another filter paper inside of the plastic funnel and pour out the acetone stopping just short of any crystals falling out. If some do, it's okay, they're all going to end up in that filter paper eventually anyway. With all of the original acetone poured out and just the crystals remaining, pour in 20 more ml.s of fresh acetone. Stir, and this time pour out all of the acetone as well as the crystals into the filter paper. Any remaining crystals that get stuck inside the beaker can be removed with a little more fresh acetone. Swirl and pour them into the filter paper as well. Once drained completely, pour a final 10 more ml.s of fresh acetone into the filter paper onto the crystals. Now you've washed them three times total.

    Remove the filter paper containing the newly formed cocaine hydrochloride crystals from the funnel and place it between a few paper towels. Fold the towels over the clump of cocaine still inside of the filter paper and press firmly on the clump to absorb any additional acetone.

    Remove from inside of the towels and place the filter paper with the cocaine still inside of it under a heat lamp for a few minutes. Remove from under heat lamp and with the cocaine still inside of the filter paper, let air dry for 48 hours.

    After 48 hours, carefully open the filter paper and let the pure cocaine hydrochloride clump fall out onto an awaiting ceramic plate. Carefully use a soft bristle tooth brush to brush off any remaining crystals stuck to the filter paper.

    Now, carefully break open the clump of cocaine to expose those beautiful, nearly 100% pure cocaine hydrochloride crystals!

    Congratulations, you've just successfully completed an A/B extraction! Now after all that hard work, simply snort and enjoy cocaine as it's suppose to be.....great!


    Le Junk
    Last edited by Le Junk; 03-09-2007 at 01:00.
     

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    #2
    Nice writeup, I prefer diethyl ether over acetone; but to each their own.
     

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    #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandbag
    Nice writeup, I prefer diethyl ether over acetone; but to each their own.
    Thanks. Yeah actually the professional method calls for a 1:1 mix of dry acetone to diethyl ether. But either one on their own is fine, and the results are the same. I simply choose the acetone method because it's readily available and won't have any rookies blowing up their mom's house.

    Le Junk
     

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    #4
    somethings not right here. 20 ml of acetone and 10! drops of muriatic acid? That brings the ph down well below 1. Are you SURE this is right? I am a vet of the elf spice extraction process and I know good and well that too much of that acid is a NO NO and thats with a mason jar FULL of water.

    Either that is wrong or I got some bunk crap! (I think I got the bunk crap)
    Someone verify the PH of the acetone after the goods have crystallized.
     

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    #5
    Bluelighter Tha Ghost's Avatar
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    bump
     

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    #6
    Bluelighter Arsteraad's Avatar
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    Le Junk should have his own drug cooking show on pbs.
    nice recipe thought, its only the little touches of embellishment on your instructions that made me say the above.
     

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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Tha Ghost
    bump
    have you run across the same problem? Ultra low ph?
    I tried evaporating off the acetone and got some crystals but damn was it acidic. Burned and was very tart in taste

    I have read elsewhere that the ph should be 5.5 to 6. also 10 drops is not the same with every dropper. In my instance my dropper 10 drops is nearly a ml. Thats a LOT of muriatic acid. Seems like that would destroy what LeJunk calls "delicate crystals".

    I have put 5 drops in a full mason jar of water and it drops the ph to that or below.

    I am anal retentive and want this procedure done with no margin of error. So far no luck.
     

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    #8
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    Personally, I'd just smoke the crack.

    But, if I was going to do this, I'd gas the coke out of the dry acetone with dry HCl gas. 10 drops of muriatic has a fair amount of water, too, and you're liable to get gook with it in there.

    Edit: this is especially true if the starting gear had some nasty cut in it, as it all too often does these days.
    Last edited by fasteddie; 11-07-2007 at 15:33.
     

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    #9
    Bluelighter hfrs's Avatar
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    Nice job on the write up LJ! It's really fun to read about your excitement and your impressions of the chemistry going on!
     

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    #10
    Bluelighter xxl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Junk
    Secondly, we're going to need anhydrous acetone. ...
    Getting anhydrous acetone will be a difficult for many people. But since were are turning base into blow, we don't have to worry about residual water : it can be evaporated at the end, although of course it takes more time to evaporate than acetone. If you have time you can just put the crack into a little water and acidify drop by drop : as soon the solution is clear (transparent, no more crack visible), that's it, you have a solution of blow in water. Now spill that water onto a clean frying pan or a dark-coloured plate and leave to evaporate, possibly warming it up a bit (but not too much). When the water is gone, what's left is blow that can be scraped together and snorted.

    I would be eager to know whether someone ever tried to dry cocaine ascorbate (instead of cocaine hydrochloride). Cocaine ascorbate is obtained when crack is acidified with ascorbic acid, as in the classical procedure for IV use. Is cocaine ascorbate stable/snortable?
     

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    #11
    I can confirm now that my stuff wasn't bad. My ph levels were way too low
    it took 3 drops not 8-10
    after around 4 drops it redisolved
    I dried it
    tasted it and it was tart
    it did have an effect but burned a bit.
    did it again with 3 drops more than 20 ml acetone and MORE water
    with more water its easier to tell when there is no more precipitation
    and LeJunk must have been using pipettes because It doesn't take much HCL to get it to start crystallizing
     

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    #12
    ok one:

    why does one need diethyl ether to do it "properly" and what are the differences? Why does the ph matters and how do you gauge it (i mean eyeball gauge obviously)

    sorry for the naivity

    also, 10 drops of hcl acid is how much? Ml measurements would be better swim thinks
    Last edited by epote; 22-08-2007 at 01:48.
     

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    #13
    i always thought the cook back was easier than that
     

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    #14
    Bluelighter rachamim's Avatar
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    No, diethyl is readily available and has both a good safety margin as well as great solubility index so it is the one recommended but all you need is a solution, of opposite polarity. pH is of course important because this is how you ensure the process. takes place as envisoned.

    I recommend anyone interested, and this a VERY,VERY simple procedure, famili[arise themselves with the VERY BASIC concepts of solubility and pH. Once you master these VERY BASIC concepts the process cannot help but make complete sense, as well as methods with which to tweak it.

    pH cannot be gauged by eyesight. Invest in a very cheap pH meter, the expensive ones for hobbyists usually cost less than 40 US so that should guide you. You can also make a VERY cheap and moderately effective gauge using cabbage if you want. However, pH needs to be tested and this is crucial. After you become very familiar with A/B extractions as a whole you can go for it sans gauge but you still need to control the pH conversion.

    Being naive is nothing to be sorry for. The only thing you should be sorry for is if you did not ask questions and arrogantly assumed you were above the fray. You asked, and are intellgient for doing so.

    A simple way to measure "drops" is to use a clean eyedropper, and dispense the target one drop at a time.

    Zigzag, cookback is easier but it is not as accurate , not by a long shot.
     

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    #15
    LE JUNK - Your posts are simply amazing!!!!

    Just a quick question - wil 1 gram of freebase turn into exactly 1 gram of cocaine hcl ???
     

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    #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by sundayraver
    LE JUNK - Your posts are simply amazing!!!!

    Just a quick question - wil 1 gram of freebase turn into exactly 1 gram of cocaine hcl ???
    Nope sweetie. Unfortunately, the other "active" cuts that have now been tuned into freebase form as well, due to the improper making of the crack in the first place, will somewhat alter your final results. Since any amphetamine or ephedrine has also been turned into freeebase, they'll simply come back as well. Cutting short on the HCI is your only hope at removing these cuts from an improperly made freebase...........

    However, PM me if you have any chemistry background and I'll blow you away with something!!! No pun intended. This is something you'll never forget, nor ever want too..........

    courtesy of, Le Junk
     

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    #17
    lol chemistry background I wish !!!
    Id have a house full of MDMA if i had
     

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    #18
    arighty then, first things first, rachamim thanks alot for your post, very helpfull, till your post swim didnt know that A/B extraction is an actuall chemistry term

    so, swim is making this post to summarize and better assimilate the knowledge he is gathering. Again its basic stuff, but like me most members dont know them, and after all you have to start somewhere last time i did chemistry was at high school and after that the closest i came to chemistry was quantum mechanics so...

    in any case, here goes nothing:

    actually it will be the next post forgive me, it just got clumped here
     

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    #19
    Chemistry one - o - one


    polarity: This is quite an important matter in the process of acid/base extractions because it central to the type of solvents used. As we know a molecule is compromised by atoms that are held together by sharing electrons (covelant bonds), generally the net electric charge of a molecule is zero but in several case (like water) the molecule has more electrons in one side than the other, and thus acts like a dipole. Hence the name polarity. (Actually it doesn't have "more" electrons, its just that one of the atoms has greater electro negativity attracting the electron cloud to itself). Ionic molecules do exist, those happen when the electro negativity of one of the atoms is so great that it completely takes up electrons on it self forming a bond with the other atom based on electromagnetic forces (for example table salt, the bond between Cl and Na is ionic)

    Solution: Solution is a homogeneous mixture of at least two substances. One is called solvent, an the others solubes. It must be made clear that solutions ARE NOT suspension's. I.e. Inside a solution the solvent interacts with the solube in an electromagnetic and not mechanical way. Generally speaking when a solube is mixed in a solvent the solvent forms a structure around the solube molecules allowing the mixture to be stable.

    Solvent: A solvent is a liquid that can solute other substances. The basic characteristic of a solvent is:
    Polarity: As stated above the polarity of the molecules of the solvent effect what kind of substances it can dissolve, thats because polarity affects the structure that will form around the solube. Polar solvents like water dissolve pollar substances like salts, while non polar solvents like ether dissolve non polar compounds like fats. Polar solvents can be further subdivided in protic and aprotic, the distinction is based on the ability of the solvent to give a hydrogen ion or not (protic give while non protic dont give). Excample of a polar protic solvent is water and excample of a polar aprotic solvent is acetone.

    solvation:the actuall prosses of solvation depends on the type of the solvent and solube. But generaly the solvent molecules form a structure around the solute molecules based on Van der waals. Van der waals bonds are a broad spectrum of molecule interactions that are NOT covenant in nature and are generally very weak. They are electrostatic in nature.

    that concludes the solvent part. Onto acids, bases and salts.

    cation: a positively charged atom
    anion: a negatively charged atom

    acid: an acid is a chemical substance that can donate a proton in the form of hydrogen ion. Examples of acids are hydrochloric acid etc. The general chemical formula of an acid is HA, where H is the hydrogen cation and A is another atom or molecule

    base: correspondingly a base is a compound that can absorb a proton. They are basically the opposite of acids.

    salt: salts are substances that are created by the neutralization of acids and bases. They are ionic compounds meaning that the bond the respective atoms share are electromagnetic (ionic) in nature, thus salts are crystalline in appearance.

    audissosiative solvents An important characteric in the way acids and bases work. Basicaly a solvent that is autodissosiative undergoes a constant formation of ions. Water for excample is H2O but when left alone it tends to form hydronium (H3O+) cations and hydroxide (HO-) anions. That happens to other solvents as well. This tends to make things more complex because in the solvent - system definition of acids and bases, an acid is a compound that increases the cations of the solvent and a base is a compound that increases the anions. For excample in water hydrhoric acid is obviously an acid because as it enters the water it form hydronium cations overpowering the hydroxide formation. But for example nitric acid can be a base if mixed in liquid sulfuric acid.

    pH: pH is the measure of alcality or acidity of solution. We define pH 7 as neutral because thats the pH of water when the concentration of hydronium cations is equal to the concentration of hydroxide anions. Basicaly pH denotes the activity of hydrogen ions. What interests us about ph is the fact that if in the specific reactions we use in the A/B extraction you go too low when ading hcl acid there will be too many free protons causing damage (and a yellow color) to the cocaine alkaloid, as well as a very acid feel to the nose. Corespondigly when doing using amonia while more difficult if you add to much you either damage the alkaloid or cause it to react with the adulterunts producing a poor base yeald. When dealing with weak bases and acids another vallue is preferable called pKa.

    pKa or acid dissosiation constant is a value that indicates the acidity of weak acids. The difference of a weak acid is that while a strong acid will completely react in the solvent the weak one will cause a rice in cations that will be equalized by the anions the solvent will spontaneously produce along with any cations the original acid will produce. Its basically the concentration of anions and cations to the concentration of the unreacted acid.

    next post will be tomorrow with what i can figure about the A/B extraction

    please anyone with an actuall chemistry backround do correct me/add etc if you may
     

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    #20
    ok, im still researching so ill do the "ab extraction explained" post a bit later, bur for the more advanced in chemistry than me, i made some calculations here.

    When crystalizing cocaine base with hydrochloric acid the whole procedure is simple proton transfers so the reaction is probably this cocaine base + Cl- -> cocaine hydrochloride. Am i wrong?

    You obviously dont want to put more hydrochloric acid in the thing because that would ruin the cocaine alcaloid so we are going for a stoichiometric reaction.

    Now if my calculations are correct for every 1.0 gram of cocaine base we need 0.1203ml of 31% hydrochloric acid. Am i right?

    the numbers are these

    cocaine base = 303.353gr/mol
    hydrochloric acid pure = 36.46gr/mol
    hydrochloric acid dencity of 37% solution = 1.18gr/ml

    ergo, 31% solution of hydrochloric acid = 0.99gr/ml i.e for convinience 1gr/ml
    1gr of cocaine base = 0.0033 mol
    0.0033 mol of hydrochloric acid = 0.1203gr
    thus for one gram of cocaine base you need 0.1203ml of 31% hydrochloric acid.

    please confirm if you can.

    also, if thats the case why do we need a ph metter? souldnt that quantity of hydrochloric acid ensure that the reaction will happen properly and we wont overshoot the ph?

    edit: for some reason the above calculation aint correct, the cocaine handbook (david lee) states that for every gram of base you need 0.25ml of 38% hydrochloric acid. What the hell?

    ugh my nerves
    Last edited by epote; 28-08-2007 at 19:22.
     

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    #21
    i'm wondering if it is possible to use this method with kokain-carbonate (crack, NOT freebase) as well? do i have this right?

    i just want to get sure before i try
     

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    #22
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    Directions completely edited. Please re-read carefully. Sorry for any inconviences this may have caused........

    Le Junk
     

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    #23
    Bluelighter Baron_Greenbck's Avatar
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    is this Isopropyl alcohol ( IPA / 2-Propanol ) ( 99.9+ 1L, anything like ethanol? Can it be used instead of ethanol??

    This is as close as i can find, still struggling to find hcl acid.
     

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    #24
    Bluelighter Fight Club's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baron_Greenbck
    is this Isopropyl alcohol ( IPA / 2-Propanol ) ( 99.9+ 1L, anything like ethanol? Can it be used instead of ethanol??

    This is as close as i can find, still struggling to find hcl acid.
    Muriatic acid is dilute HCL acid, and is available at home centers, hardware stores, and pool supply stores.

    FC
     

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    #25
    Bluelighter xxl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by epote
    also, if thats the case why do we need a ph metter? souldnt that quantity of hydrochloric acid ensure that the reaction will happen properly and we wont overshoot the ph?
    The beautiful thing with a PH meter is that you could ignore the concentration of your acid. You aim for the PH of cocaine HCl (something like 5.xx) and don't go above it. If the PH meter is a good one, I don't know how accurate (or how goofy) PH meters can be. Don't even try with indicator strips, they're useless for any quantitative work.
     

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