I had mistakingly left out the use of ethanol, which is a key component in this procedure. I apologize to anyone that may have had less than perfect results. Please read these directions carefully as they have now been corrected to perfect the outcome.
One final note. I would strongly recommend making crack/freebase via the 1:1 ammonia route as I've described in an entirely seperate thread. Making freebase the way I've outlined in that thread will produce 100% pure, freebase cocaine, nothing more. Making freebase, or purchasing freebase made via baking soda, water and heat, better known as the bi-carb method, will produce freebase cocaine/amphetamine/ephedrine and whatever else was in there in the first place. The choice is yours.....either A. 100% pure cocaine freebase, or B. 100% pure cocaine/amphetamine/ephedrine freebase? I'd personally choose A!
This is the entire procedure used to turn crack/freebase cocaine into a snortable powder cocaine, better known as cocaine hydrochoride. The procedure itself is called an A/B extraction, but the results are all you'll really be interested in. And the results are simply sooooo good!
I will be outlining this procedure as though you already have the freebase cocaine. In addition, I'll also be using 1 gram of freebase cocaine as the control for this procedure.
Okay, first you'll need to break down the freebase into as fine a powder as possible. Let it completely air dry until it's as entirely dry as powdered cocaine. It should be white and not yellow in color when dry. If it's still yellow, then we'll be getting rid of that as well. Remember, cocaine is white and not yellow. Yellow=bad, white=good.
Secondly, we're going to need anhydrous acetone. You can easily turn hardware store acetone into anhydrous acetone with the simple process I've outlined below. To do this, you'll need to go to Home Depot or Lowes and get the following items: a 1 liter can of acetone, a bag of epsom salts, and a bottle of 31% muriatic acid.
Now, heat some epsom salts on an aluminum foil covered baking sheet in the oven for 2 hours at 400 degrees F. After 2 hours of heating, the epsom salts have now been turned into anhydrous magnesium sulphate. Crazy huh?
Now, take 10-20 grams of your greyish ash looking anhydrous magnesium sulphate and pour it directly into your can of hardware store acetone. Now, shake the can vigorously for a few minutes to circulate the magnesium sulphate and then let it settle for 24 hours. The magnesium sulphate will absorb all of the water and/or alcohol from the hardware store acetone and sink it to the bottom of the can where it shall remain forever.
Therefore from now on, never pour from the can, instead use a glass eye dropper or glass pipette (glass straw) to reach down inside of the can to extract however much anhydrous acetone you'll be requiring. Always stay away from the bottom of the can. Once the can get's about half way down, discard and repeat the process with a fresh can of acetone. Always use glass hardware when using acetone. Acetone will melt plastic.
Okay, ready? We'll use 1 gram of freebase for the conversion. If you use 2 grams, simply double all of the measurements we use and so on.
NOTE: I won't mention this part again, so just remember to always cover your acetone filled beaker with something during every waiting period mentioned below. The reason being that since your acetone will now be free of water, you'll want to keep it that way by keeping moisture from the air out at all times. Okay? Let's go...............
Put 10 ml.s of anhydrous acetone into a glass beaker. Add your 1 gram of freebase to the acetone and stir until it's entirely dissolved. Don't panic, we're gonna bring it right back. It's freakin' majic!
With a medium flow filter paper placed inside of a plastic funnel for support, pour your 10 ml.s of dissolved freebase/acetone into it and let it funnel into an awaiting seperate beaker. This will assure a clear liquid and will rid of the yellowish, dirty tinted looking crap you got when it first dissolved. Once all of the freebase/acetone has filtered into the second beaker, add 10 more ml.s of fresh acetone into the same filter to obtain any remaining freebase stuck to the filter paper.
You will now have 20 ml.s of acetone and dissolved freebase in 1 beaker. The liquid should be almost clear to mostly clear.
Now, in a seperate beaker, create a solution of 2:1 ethanol (Everclear liquor 190 proof, available at any liquor store) to 31% muriatic acid (HCI). It doesn't matter how much you make total, just make sure that the mixture is 2 parts ethanol to 1 part HCI (31% muriatic acid). Stir the mixture thoroughly. In a seperate beaker, pour 10 ml.s of fresh acetone. Now, using a glass eye dropper, add exactly 20 drops of the 2:1 ethanol/HCI solution to the 10 ml.s of fresh acetone. Mix thoroughly. Now here comes the majic, simulataneously swirl both the acetone/dissolved freebase and the acetone/ethanol/HCI beakers and then all at once, pour the acetone/ethanol/HCI into the acetone/dissolved frrebase beaker. Bam, crystals will start foming immediately right before your eyes! Quickly cover the beaker now holding all of the ingredients and wait until crytallization looks to be complete. When that happens, carefully remove the cover and stir the mixture very well, making sure to really get the bottom of the beaker. Run the stir rod up the side of the beaker after stirring, if any new crystal growth forms, crystallization is not yet complete, so cover and let stand again for a half hour or so. Repeat again and if no more new crystals grow, then crystallization is now complete. Let the crystals completely settle on the bottom and the clear acetone is on left on top.
Now, put another filter paper inside of the plastic funnel and pour out the acetone stopping just short of any crystals falling out. If some do, it's okay, they're all going to end up in that filter paper eventually anyway. With all of the original acetone poured out and just the crystals remaining, pour in 20 more ml.s of fresh acetone. Stir, and this time pour out all of the acetone as well as the crystals into the filter paper. Any remaining crystals that get stuck inside the beaker can be removed with a little more fresh acetone. Swirl and pour them into the filter paper as well. Once drained completely, pour a final 10 more ml.s of fresh acetone into the filter paper onto the crystals. Now you've washed them three times total.
Remove the filter paper containing the newly formed cocaine hydrochloride crystals from the funnel and place it between a few paper towels. Fold the towels over the clump of cocaine still inside of the filter paper and press firmly on the clump to absorb any additional acetone.
Remove from inside of the towels and place the filter paper with the cocaine still inside of it under a heat lamp for a few minutes. Remove from under heat lamp and with the cocaine still inside of the filter paper, let air dry for 48 hours.
After 48 hours, carefully open the filter paper and let the pure cocaine hydrochloride clump fall out onto an awaiting ceramic plate. Carefully use a soft bristle tooth brush to brush off any remaining crystals stuck to the filter paper.
Now, carefully break open the clump of cocaine to expose those beautiful, nearly 100% pure cocaine hydrochloride crystals!
Congratulations, you've just successfully completed an A/B extraction! Now after all that hard work, simply snort and enjoy cocaine as it's suppose to be.....great!