IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ?
I wanted to deal with an issue that commonly arises here. Often people ask 'is this spice ok to smoke', followed by some picture of some crystals or the description of the color of the spice. What I want to argue here is that spice color and how it looks is a very poor indicator of possible impurities, with few exceptions.
Yellow colour can be a number of things:
- Pure DMT itself has been shown to be
polymorphic , so yellow may just be DMT itself. But it can also be other things:
-Oily non-volatile impure solvent remains (bad to smoke)
-Plant oils/fatty acids or other natural impurities (more likely ok to smoke, and can even make for a more efficient vaporization as it protects spice from the lighter's heat, though might taste a bit harsher)
-DMT N-oxide mixed in any proportions to DMT (ok to smoke, also psychoactive, some people even preffer it to normal dmt, others dont like it so much but it definitely works and is not dangerous)
- NMT (
also psychoactive, though less potent than dmt, about a fourth of the potency).
It can also be a mix of all/any of the above. Usinc clean chemicals to extract will guarantee that at least you don't have any dangerous chemical impurities, and in that case yellow wouldn't be a bad thing in either way.
White spice can be pure but it may have colorless impurities like solvent traces or other invisible trace toxic impurities from chemicals used, which are not good to smoke. If you have made sure to use clean chemicals and clean procedure, and extracted DMT from a clean plant source, white spice is more likely of a reasonable purity.
Brown color can be the same as yellow color description above or it could also be that during the pulls, small droplets of the basified mimosa/plant liquid came across, which can mean harsh basic plant material and lye in your final product (this is usually associated with the dark naphtha issue, check FAQ for more info). It might be also some impurities from dirty chemicals/solvents used.
Red spice can be a mixture of plant oils, fatty acids or other plant impurities, or in the case of pulling with a more polar solvent like xylene, it can also be small amounts of a secondary alkaloid from mimosa (ok to smoke). Or it can also be some weird solvent non-volatile additives (not ok to smoke). Many people think red is necessarily the same as jungle spice, but that is not true, red can be any or all of the above, depending on solvent/chemicals used, extraction method, plant material, etc etc.
The exception:
green/]blue spice is a no-no in all occasions, forget that! your solvent is bunk, either throw your stuff away and start new (safer) or recrystalize it at least 3 times with clean solvent + washing with sodium carb, or ideally re-a/b, and then recrystallize.
And it becomes even harder to tell what the content is by color if you are not extracting from mimosa but from a plant such as acacia or another plant with possible different alkaloid content (phalaris, desmanthus, etc etc, because appart from all of what was mentioned above, you could also have a mixture of other alkaloids which might be beneficial like other active tryptamines or synergistic beta carbolines, or might be unwanted (like the potentially toxic gramine and related analogues in phalaris)
Your spice is ok to smoke when:
1- Your solvent evaps clean - As opposed to, for example fuel solvents with non-volatile components like rust inhibitors that may or may not leave your spice blue/green. Always do an evap test with your solvent in a pyrex/glass container to see if it evaps clean before using
2- You have let the spice dry for long enough to evap solvent traces - Showing picture of your spice doesnt help us see if there are solvent traces. Check by the smell, but even after solvent smell is gone, its recommended to break up the crystals and spread them in a plate/filter and let it air dry for some more hours just in case. Also, its possible that solvent traces are trapped inside the crystal formations, so redissolving your spice in some less toxic quick-evapping solvent like acetone or also ethanol/IPA (considering you can get them pure) and evapping again will help getting rid of those solvent traces.
3- There are no remains of the mimosa soup that carried over when separating the pulls - While NaOH does NOT vaporize at the temperatures reached by the lighter, it could come through as unvaporized particles suspended in the smoke. Also, the mimosa soup is not only NaOH but also plant material that will create very harsh smoke. If there is any black spots that may be from mimosa soup or you are unsure, better wash your solvent before evap/freeze precip, with dilute sodium carbonate solution, or recrystalize your crystals after evap/freeze.
4- If you avoided material made of plastic during your extraction. Plastic itself, or phthalates used in it's composition, can both theoretically end up in your final product, which is why they should be avoided, in particular plastic that isn't specifically made to withstand the chemicals used. Some solvents already come in plastic bottles but usually these are specially made fluorinated bottles that withstand the solvent. Using improvised ziplock as separatory funnel, making your extraction using plastic bottles that aren't specifically reinforced to hold non-polar solvents, etc, is all a big No-No. Please check
THIS FAQ entry and the two links on why plastic shouldn't be used and how to potentially clean a product if it got in contact with plastic.
5- If you subjectively feel ok with your stuff - If you are affraid your spice is not good enough for some reason or other, its possible this will affect your experience negatively. Smoke it when you feel your spice is clean enough
6- If extracting from other plant form appart from mimosa hostilis, that you make sure there's no toxic alkaloids. For example if using phalaris, only try the product if it's been extracted with room temperature naphtha (that does not contain xylene) or room temperature limonene, because this seems to remove most of the toxic gramine, but even then, it's recommended to buy a reagent such as ehrlich to test your product or at the very least start with very small 'allergy' doses to see if there's any negative reaction. When extracting from different acacias or other dmt-containing plants, also start with low doses.
If you have not extracted the DMT yourself, you are probably not in the position to know the above points, which means it might not be safe to smoke the DMT you have. Extract your own, or if a friend gives you, be sure he works clean and considers all the points mentioned above. If you are still stubborn and will want to smoke something you didn't extract yourself even though we really recommend you dont, at least make sure it IS DMT you're dealing with (at least testing with a reagent like ehrlich to see if it tests positive), recrystallize it a couple of times, do a FASA conversion and reconvert it back to freebase, and this way you probably eliminate most impurities if it is DMT in the first place. But still, better not smoke anything you haven't extracted yourself.
![:\](https://bluelight.org/xf/BL_Images/Orig_Emoji/wrygrin.gif "wry grin :\")
Sticky material is not uncommon either.
