Specific question regarding DMT extraction from A. Confusa

[Hawkeyeryn]

So, I really hope someone could take a few minutes to review my procedure and lend a hand.

I'm using this https://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/extraction_guide1/dmt_extraction_guide1.shtml tek

which is designed for MHRB but in the comments section he says it works for A. Confusa. The reason I'm using it is because it uses the exact chemicals that I've been able to obtain (Muriatic Acid 30%, NaOH Crystals, and Naphtha). Basically I skipped the defatting phase and after 2 acidification pulls, went to try straight for freebase form. One issue is my pHs may have been off because the pH paper I ordered hasn't come in yet, but I did the proportions exactly as described in the tech. Right now my content is sitting in a basified solution with Naphtha on top and a very thin emulsion layer. My issue is my naphtha remains clear as day white, and when dissolved a sample, leaves a very thin, white gooey product (which I guess is good since it means I've obtained SOMETHING because on a test evap of just Naphtha, there seemed to be a teeny tiny bit of residue but no a goo like I have.) The reason I'm worried is because I skipped the defatting phase, so I would think my naphtha would have pulled SOMETHING to make it less than crystal clear.

I used 50g of A. Confusia powdered root bark. The acid solution I used was according to the tech, which was: Muratic acid from pool shop (10 ml 30% HCl to 1 liter water is recommended.). I did not test the pH since I didn't have papers, so I'm thinking my solution may not have been acidic enough to begin with. My first pull sat for a day, as did the second pull. I read in erowid's notes that the times suggested in this tech are very long.

So, I have my two pulls of acidic water in a jar. My basified solution was then made exactly as the tech describes: A good mixture for basifying is 5g (~0.2 ounces) lye mixed with 95g (~3 ounces) distilled water.

Again, unable to test pH. The addition of the base was done with a small dropper and did produce heat as well as a color change. I definitely think I over basified since after the solution had completely changed colors I continued to add more. I actually added probably 80% of the 95g (3oz) of basified water. Is it possible I destroyed my alkaloids that way? I shook the hell out of the jar, test evaped some naphtha, nothing, added more naphtha (the Erowid notes also say that this tek reccomends WAY more naphtha than needed, and that a tenth of the suggested 100ml could be used)

The image above is my basified solution with naphtha. No coloration and barely able to see emulsion.

The next two photos are a close-up and a far-away of me taking a card and scraping the clear white, basically like gelatin-sludge, VERY VERY THIN LAYER. Notice it doesn't even block the light thru the dish, its completely see thru. This can't be normal, can it? Can anyone tell me where I went wrong?

 

[Hawkeyeryn]

In the photo the naphtha looks like it has color, that's just the reflection from the bottom stuff. I really think my issue may have been not enough acidification in the beginning?


EDIT: Also, I will re-do this once my pH papers arrive, I have more material. If anyone has a better tech that's specific to A. Confusa and uses Muriatic Acid, NaOH, and naphtha, or can be easily subbed with those, please do share.

 

[tacodude]

A. Confusca very likely has more salts to neutralize requiring more of whatever you use to freebase than mimosa. This is a guess though

 

[Hawkeyeryn]

A. Confusca very likely has more salts to neutralize requiring more of whatever you use to freebase than mimosa. This is a guess though

I've already severely over-basified the mixture, still waiting on pH papers, but regarding what you said, you think it's possible I UNDER acidified? Why isn't my naphtha pulling ANYTHING (since I didn't defat, it still should be pulling those impurities) unless A Confusa doesn't have much to defat. So do you think I under acidified?

 

[sekio]

you can't over-basify a mimosa extraction. no such thing as too much base.

if you added a bunch of acid at the beginning you will need to add even more lye to neutralize it. get those ph papers.

 

[Hawkeyeryn]

Ok, my pH papers came in. My solution is at 14, as basic as it can get. I tested the acid alone, and it's pH was right around 1. I added enough acid to make my A. Confusia + acid solution the consistency of a very thin oatmeal. I did a speed evap on the entire pull of the naphtha, and the entire thing has dissolved into that gel-like substance that I'm hoping will lose the tiny moisture left that's making it gooey and turn into crystals (will this happen?)

Can anyone tell me what may have meant wrong? I will repeat this tek using pH papers, but I'm pretty sure I reached the exact pHs described in the tek, so feel like I'm going to end up with the same result. Any suggestions?

 

[sekio]

If you don't see waxy crystals coming out of the naptha then I'd say your plant material was crap to start with. or you need to use more naptha.

 

[Hawkeyeryn]

I just did a reckless test of the goo. Scraped up around 50mg and vaped. I DEFINITELY got some elf-spice. Lot of visuals and change in perception, just not enough to blast me through space. I also take some meds that may have held me back. My worry is what impurities I may have introduced in to my body. So will this goo, given enough time, dry into just crystals?


EDIT: Oh, also took several mg of Xanax today. That's probably the only reason why I wasn't blasted through space. Apparently my wellbutrin won't hold me back.

 

[sekio]

it may not dry into crystals, you may have to scrape it all up and melt and recrystallize it to get it that way

 

[SteamboatBillJr]

Attempt this: Use 200g of powdered root bark and evaporate the first naphtha pull separately. Evaporate the naphtha using a container with a smaller surface area (<5"X5"). When the naphtha from the first pull is viscous or cloudy place the naphtha in the freezer at the coldest setting undisturbed two days.

Also why are you using this Tek? This is at the top of the page.

NOTE OF WARNING: QT's DMT Extraction for Students is archived by Erowid as a historical document. The process as described has been critiqued as flawed and dangerous several ways. Safer and more effective DMT extraction and purification techniques have been developed and made available in the years since the document below was created. For one such process, see Noman's "DMT for the Masses".

Specific concerns regarding QT's tek, detailed below, were sent to Erowid on behalf of the community at The DMT Nexus, who note: "Time and time again, people have come to The DMT Nexus or other web forums because they were following QT's tek and it either didn't work or they ran into serious issues trying to follow it. Our largest concerns with QT's tek are related to health and safety. Throughout the tek, comments on safely handling chemicals are scant. If we've learned one thing, it's that people doing extractions by following a tek as though it's a recipe often are not sticklers for proper handling and safety. Following the tek as it is written could lead to serious bodily harm, it may not successfully extract DMT, and even if some DMT is obtained, there is a strong possibility of it being contaminated with toxic substances." Erowid is grateful to be able to share the detailed commentary and harm-reduction efforts of The DMT Nexus folks. -- The Erowid Crew, February 4, 2011

At the least you shouldn't use muriatic acid. Muriatic acid is dangerous. Anhydrous citric acid is sold at grocery stores in the canning department.

 

[Hawkeyeryn]

Grrrrr

it may not dry into crystals, you may have to scrape it all up and melt and recrystallize it to get it that way

What would this entail exactly? I know what scraping all the goo would entail, and gathering it on a small glass pyrex dish, but are u saying then redissolve in naphtha? How about an H2O wash beforehand? Or do that afterward?


Anyway, I'm not sure if I posted this image, but this was the best result I obtained. I achieved this product after placing the dish directly against a fan on the highest setting, with a space heater directly behind the fan so it would be blowing warm air, and lots of it. However, I was stupid and did not collect this product in time or because I still had a naphtha pull, I did that pull and kept it on the opposite side of the glass than that beautiful powder you see below, but now am stuck back with the goo, covering the entire pyrex dish. Worse yet, I have a cat, and now it's contaminated with TONS of cat hair, little hairs, and dust from the fan and sitting in my room etc. Basically I'm stuck back with the opaque goo-ish stuff.





greenshot

The above is the best product I ever had. Now I'm not sure exactly how I got the product but I did put the dish directly against a fan on highest setting with a space heater behind on the highest setting, resulting in a strong dry warm (not hot since the fan was so high and the space heater isn't very hot) wind that I think did a lot to evaporate. Instead of harvesting the beautiful product I had above before adding my last naphtha pulll and tilted the dish so that the naphtha ended up on the opposite side of my beautiful powder. But, alas, the below is what I have now. I believe now due to the warm weather and humidity, the last bit of moisture and oil is having a hard time evaporating. The weather is only going to get worse, hotter and more humid, so I want to harvest this ASAP (plus I love to bake and this is my favorite baking dish LOL). So should I try the freezer method or the goo method?

 

[Hawkeyeryn]

it may not dry into crystals, you may have to scrape it all up and melt and recrystallize it to get it that way

Can you explain a bit further? I'm guessing I would scrape all the goo off the entire dish and add it to a smaller glash dish, and then are you saying re-dissolve in naphtha and try to dissolve it in a different dish, or something? I really appreciate your help and would SUPER appreciate if you could elaborate.

 

[Hawkeyeryn]

Attempt this: Use 200g of powdered root bark and evaporate the first naphtha pull separately. Evaporate the naphtha using a container with a smaller surface area (<5"X5"). When the naphtha from the first pull is viscous or cloudy place the naphtha in the freezer at the coldest setting undisturbed two days.

Also why are you using this Tek? This is at the top of the page.


At the least you shouldn't use muriatic acid. Muriatic acid is dangerous. Anhydrous citric acid is sold at grocery stores in the canning department.

Man, I did not see that. Thank you for pointing it out. Since I am finished with the tek right now, I will keep your steps in mind. However, do you think that if I put my baking dish (with the pics above) in the freezer, it would allow crystals to form instead of goo? Or do you think I should do as the other gentleman, sekio, suggested, and scrape all the goo and I guess re-dissolve and recrystallize (I think since he said crystallize he means to redissolve in naphtha and then put in freezer to literally crystallize-something I prolly should've done, but does that work on freebase DMT which mine is?)

So Steamboatbilljr, I REALLY appreciate the time you took to look through my work. I'd love if you and/or sekio could suggest whether I should throw my dish in the freezer for a few days to see what happens, and if not, try to re-evaporate and crystallize.

Also, as I said before, I wasn't able to break through. I am perscribed heavy benzos, however, so I believe this is blocking me from breaking through. But do you think a lot of my product may have turned into NMT? Sekio and Steamboat, if you could both answer or suggest any of the million questions I posed, or even give one suggestion, I'd be forever grateful.

Thank you both already for how you've helped me, and I do hope I'm able to grab your guys' attention to be able to help me further.


PEACE LOVE AND BE SAFE!!!!!!

Ryan

 

[SteamboatBillJr]

Attempt Sekio's recommendation first. Sekio is smarter with science than me. You could also attempt recrystallization with the goo you already made.