Mimosa Hostilis + vinegar + sodium carbonate = ?

[conscious1]

Hello everyone,

Quick question. If you were to add vinegar 5%, water (just below boiling point), and mimosa hostilis to a stainless steel pot, and keep heated for about an hour and then add sodium carbonate. Is it possible for the rust inhibitors in the stainless steel pot to turn the solution green? Only staying green for around 5 minutes or so and then turn back to red?

 

[afer]

Why would you add sodium carbonate prior to filtering/reducing/decanting?

 

[conscious1]

I'm just an amateur when it comes to this stuff. But, for an A/B extraction it's used to alkalize the ph. So you can then convert the polar dmt-acetate in the vinegar water into non-polar dmt freebase.

 

[afer]

Alright. In acidic conditions the mimosa brew usually looks like a pink mess; when you base it, it turns dark brown, almost black. Never seen green..
Sodium carbonate is ok to neutralize the acid, but you will most likely need lye anyway to bring the pH high enough...

 

[conscious1]

Thanks for the input. I read somewhere that stainless steel has/can have? rust inhibitors added to the surface layer of the metal. I also read somewhere that if you use impure naptha, it could possibly turn the mimosa green due to rust inhibitors in the naptha.

Now, if your not using naptha. My line of thinking is "if rust inhibitors in naptha could turn the solution green, the rust inhibitors in stainless steel could also turn the solution green." But, the question is "why would the solution turn green only when sodium carbonate is added? And why would it after 5 minutes turn back to red?" (side note; the color in question is actually a "dark green") Better safe than sorry when it comes to things like this.

 

[phuckingnutz]

Thanks for the input. I read somewhere that stainless steel has/can have? rust inhibitors added to the surface layer of the metal. I also read somewhere that if you use impure naptha, it could possibly turn the mimosa green due to rust inhibitors in the naptha.

Now, if your not using naptha. My line of thinking is "if rust inhibitors in naptha could turn the solution green, the rust inhibitors in stainless steel could also turn the solution green." But, the question is "why would the solution turn green only when sodium carbonate is added? And why would it after 5 minutes turn back to red?" (side note; the color in question is actually a "dark green") Better safe than sorry when it comes to things like this.

Rust inhibitors in the Naptha can turn your spice green, but there is no way, IMO, that there would be enough in there to turn the whole schmeer green.
Are you using Coleman or VM&P...or something else?
I know that with Lye basification i'll get some intermediate colors on the way to deprotonation...not green, but some different colors.
Now, after the initial color change, i think that sodium carb could be buffered out enough to revert to your original color...red. Maybe if you can add enough to get your PH to a high enough level it'll go to black...I really think you should try lye though...much more effective.
Also, did you strain your bark prior to basification? To me that's the best part about an A/B as opposed to STB...less gooey fucking mess grabbing hold of your Naptha.

 

[afer]

I'd say if you don't have pH strips (and these can be difficult to read anyway if your solution has some strong color to it), just base your brew with a considerable amount of NaOH (exercise caution and common sense when handling this shit!), wait a little, then add non-polar solvent and proceed with pulling.

I have been using my stainless steel pressure cooker (originally bought for related questionable activities) for acid cooks, basification, and pulling without any issues...